Pro Form auto clear

Have you used it Joey ? The reason I ask is because I'm using something similar
and we could talk comparison. I'm using something called 'Speed Clear'. 1 yr now.
Cures to polish in 2, 2-1/2 hrs dependent on humidity. Bake it, cures quicker.
Price is similar, 4:1 mix, goes on very thin and that may be a drawback.
It stays thin and that guarantees at least 2 trips to the spray-booth.
Lay it on thick to compensate and it will run when you least expect it.
Again, if you've tried it, share your experience.
 
KJ Cues said:
Have you used it Joey ? The reason I ask is because I'm using something similar
and we could talk comparison. I'm using something called 'Speed Clear'. 1 yr now.
Cures to polish in 2, 2-1/2 hrs dependent on humidity. Bake it, cures quicker.
Price is similar, 4:1 mix, goes on very thin and that may be a drawback.
It stays thin and that guarantees at least 2 trips to the spray-booth.
Lay it on thick to compensate and it will run when you least expect it.
Again, if you've tried it, share your experience.
Click to expand...

I've used it. First time I used it was like 2 years ago. Was really happy with it.
Was really hard, durable and can apply thick.
Then I ran out of hardener. Next thing you know, I couldn't get them locally anymore.
Tried different brands since then, Southwest Poly, Matrix, Transtar, Medalion.. Had nothing but problems with them .
Pro Form is simple and not finicky .

I don't really bake this. Just spray with 10% reducer.
Sand to gas out the next day with 1000 grit.
Polish in 4 days.

I don't see why you can't bake cored cues with it.
I know a local spot auto refinisher used this and he turned me into this .
I was using Nason then.
 
Last edited:
I Googled the product to get more info :

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/p...learcoat-50-state/super-express-clearcoat-41/

There you will find the various pdfs. The product(s) come out of Canada. Not always a bad thing, I like Canada.

OK, lets talk shop.
I use a variety of clears in my work but for Sey's shafts I want something quick & easy but it has to be quality.
I give myself 3 days to build a shaft, start to finish. I can do it in 24 hrs (that includes 8hr epoxy cure/wait time)
but that usually means that I get-up in the middle of the night. I'm retired now and no longer willing to crunch the clock.
What I'm currently using is 'AutoBodyMaster-SpeedClear'. It's quick, easy, low-cost and gives me a quality finish I want.
Bare in mind that this works for Sey's shafts where I want a quick turn-around. On my cues I use Euro-type clears, no rush.
Also, on shafts, I don't do an epoxy substrate/sealer. The first session of clear does that, hence two application sessions.
Anyway, there are a lot of similarities btwn Pro-form and AutoBodyMaster. Thin, low priced and similar cure times.
Where you're giving it 4 days I'm giving it 4 hrs. The only drawback, as mentioned is the 'thin'. 1-1.5 millage.
You can wet-sand thru that pretty easily so you're going to WANT at least a couple of sessions.
Also, Pro-Form DOES NOT recommend baking but then with a 1 to 1-1/2 hr to polish time, why would you need to ?
 
JoeyInCali said:
I've used it. First time I used it was like 2 years ago. Was really happy with it.
Was really hard, durable and can apply thick.
Then I ran out of hardener. Next thing you know, I couldn't get them locally anymore.
Tried different brands since then, Southwest Poly, Matrix, Transtar, Medalion.. Had nothing but problems with them .
Pro Form is simple and not finicky .

I don't really bake this. Just spray with 10% reducer.
Sand to gas out the next day with 1000 grit.
Polish in 4 days.

I don't see why you can't bake cored cues with it.
I know a local spot auto refinisher used this and he turned me into this .
I was using Nason then.
Click to expand...


what problems with Medallion & Transtar?
i used Transtar until it wasnt available locally few yrs ago
been using Medallion since then
 
Hi,

I have found that when using a 2x speed cure that it is better to wait 2 days then sand with 320 - respray then wait 7 days before wet sanding and buffing. This eliminates pinching with the seal and adhesion coats that I use.

On my high end cues I use 2x speed cure, wait one week before sanding and then respray with a high end Concept Clear, then sand with 800 in one week to open surface for off gassing, then wait 30 + days before final wet sanding and buffing. This produces a very special stabil and long lasting cue finish IMO.

You need a full cure on a finish before wet sanding and buffing. Time is your only friend concerning a 100% hardness from a full cure.

Rick
 
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