Pros And Cons of the "G-10" Pin
- Thread starter WheatCues
- Start date
G-10 Pin
FYI from Google search of "Garolite".
Garolite Phenolics
Garolite (phenolic laminate materials) are available in Sheets, Rods and Tubes.
Phenolic resin, dating back to 1909, is the earliest mass produced synthesized plastic polymer. Phenolics are the predecessor to modern plastics yet remain useful to this day. Micarta was the Westinghouse trade name for their early phenolic composites, now part of Norplex; Garolite is the McMaster-Carr tradename equivalent. It is important to note that McMaster Carr does not manufacture Garolite phenolic materials, they commercially use the Garolite tradename for the distribution of phenolic materials as listed below.
James said:
FYI from Google search of "Garolite".
Garolite Phenolics
Garolite (phenolic laminate materials) are available in Sheets, Rods and Tubes.
Phenolic resin, dating back to 1909, is the earliest mass produced synthesized plastic polymer. Phenolics are the predecessor to modern plastics yet remain useful to this day. Micarta was the Westinghouse trade name for their early phenolic composites, now part of Norplex; Garolite is the McMaster-Carr tradename equivalent. It is important to note that McMaster Carr does not manufacture Garolite phenolic materials, they commercially use the Garolite tradename for the distribution of phenolic materials as listed below.
A long time ago I talked to Joel Hercek about this very subject. He mentioned to Burton Spain that he heard of a cuemaker (probably Joey Gold, or maybe even more than one) using G-10, and heard it advertised to be as strong as steel. The first thing Mensa mind Burton Spain said was, "At what diameter?". Apparently here's where things get a little sticky. While G-10 is strong, if you make it too thin (and I don't know exactly where the line is, so don't quote me on this), it is FAR from steel in strength.
G-10 is brittle, and I've heard rumors of people breaking pins in a Cog. Probabaly when they tried to break like Sigel. So that could be a huge downfall of the pin.
As far as upside, the weight, strength (Still strong) and feel are all some pretty good things G-10 has going for it.
G-10 is brittle, and I've heard rumors of people breaking pins in a Cog. Probabaly when they tried to break like Sigel. So that could be a huge downfall of the pin.
As far as upside, the weight, strength (Still strong) and feel are all some pretty good things G-10 has going for it.
The way they are made for radial/ball screw, they are subject to side pressure for cutting. If they don't snap from that, they shouldn't snap for cue use.Dakota Cues said:
Of course you will have geniuses who will try to break it.
Good news is they break before the forearm does. Not after.
I'm not crazy about them. I have built a few cues with them, but have never locked down a really good method yet to keep them from feeling "loose" in the shaft. Brass is still my choice, then aluminum alloy for when I want lightweight but still have the strength. The G10 may be stronger than aluminum, i'm not sure, but aluminum is most definitely stiffer & seemingly stronger as a joint pin. I'll likely continue to tinker with them & try to find a solid method of use, but as of now I think they are less than being better than the standard SS, Brass, & Aluminum.
As for playability, I find no bennefitial nor hendering affects. Playability seems to be par, no more & no less.
As for playability, I find no bennefitial nor hendering affects. Playability seems to be par, no more & no less.
masonh said:
Mason, this is a general comment not directed at you, I just quoted this since you're the most recent to comment on strength.
There seems to be a little confusion in the terms being used here. I'd comment more specifically but I'm having a hard time finding out exactly what grade/supplier of G-10 is being using in this application so I can't find exact numbers.
"Strength" as it's generally being referred to here would more accurately be a spec referred to as "Tensile strength". In simple terms, tensile strength would be the strength if you took a piece of g-10 and pulled on both ends until permanent deformation took place.
In that sense, G-10 is comparable to brass or aluminum. In reality though, I suspect that when a pin fails it's going to be because of bending stress, not because of a tensile failure.
If this is a fair assumption (I don't have much experience breaking pins) then the property you want to consider is not strength, but flexural modulus.
In this sense, Brass/Al/Steel are going to be much more forgiving in bending than a phenolic.
In the end I haven't said anything you all didn't already know, I'm just trying to clarify a few terms.
To take this to an extreme, you could make a pin out of an engineered ceramic. It would be more than sufficiently strong (higher "strength" than brass or Al) but so brittle that it would fail probably on the first break.
All that said I break with a G-10 pin every day. I've never had any problems and don't know anyone locally who has.
-J
(I'm a mechanical engineer, design. The majority of our products are designed using engineering plastics. If anyone has further nerdy plastics questions I can be as in depth as you'd like)
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Eric Wynne
Banned
I've used many of the G10 pins for the reduction of weight in the cue and if glued in properly there isn't hardly any flex but if only the bottom portion of the pin is glued it will flex , so let the glue ooz out and simply use thinner to wipe off excess and you shouldn't experiene the twisting flex ...also don't leave excessive amount of screw out , or long winded ... They are very good when you're combining heavier woods and you want to eliminate weight ... They are strong no matter what thread you choose , NASA developed this stuff not to fail for space craft and the aero industry ...Don't worry - be happy ...
I know that this is an old thread, but I have a question.....
Will a 3/8 x 10 shaft fit on this pin?
If not, would it be possible and/or desirable to have a 3/8x10 pin retrofitted into the cue?
If that is possible, can the existing shafts be re-tapped to fit a 3/8x10 pin?
I have been doing some other reading and another question came into my mind... do all G-10 pins have the same thread design or is that variable? The more I read the more it seems like there are multiple G-10 configurations.
The bottom line is that all my other cues and shafts are 3/8x10 including the Predator that I usually play with. I am thinking about buying a cue with a G-10 pin but would want to be able to use my other shafts and would need the current shaft that comes with the cue to be able to fit on the cue as well.
Thanks,
Ron
Will a 3/8 x 10 shaft fit on this pin?
If not, would it be possible and/or desirable to have a 3/8x10 pin retrofitted into the cue?
If that is possible, can the existing shafts be re-tapped to fit a 3/8x10 pin?
I have been doing some other reading and another question came into my mind... do all G-10 pins have the same thread design or is that variable? The more I read the more it seems like there are multiple G-10 configurations.
The bottom line is that all my other cues and shafts are 3/8x10 including the Predator that I usually play with. I am thinking about buying a cue with a G-10 pin but would want to be able to use my other shafts and would need the current shaft that comes with the cue to be able to fit on the cue as well.
Thanks,
Ron
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G-10 is the material that the pin is made of not the size or thread form. I imagine they can be had in any size or thread desired.
Dick
sent you a pm.