Question about draw "english"

[Colin Colenso]

Colin...What I meant is exactly what the original poster questioned. The ability to get action on the CB is related to mechanics (albeit some conditions must exist...i.e: round tip, good chalk), not which tip, shaft or ferrule you have. It continues to amaze me how many people are fooled into thinking 'this tip' draws better than 'that tip'. Nonsense, imo. Although there has been some technological advances in cues, if you have no stroke, it won't matter what tip/shaft/ferrule you use.

Scott Lee

Scott,
That's what I figured you must have meant.

I still think the tip quality is very important. My last two have been a Le Pro and a Mosashi and they were both quite firm and didn't hold chalk well. That causes a lot of minor and major miscues when I have to juice up or simply draw low to hold a tight positional angle.

In comparison, I've had tips that almost never miscue unless I attempt to hit so far off center that I'm almost sure that it will miscue. With a good tip like this, there is a wider margin for error, and the potential to rip that CB an extra couple of feet if need be.

 

[TX Poolnut]

You won't notice a difference in how well a cue can perform for you until you learn how to perform with a cue.

I think this pretty much sums up this entire thread.

 

[TheBook]

Chalk, decent shaped tip, stroke and a straight shaft. Stroke being a combination of all the elements required such as grip, follow thru etc.

 

[Billy_Bob]

i get best results with a small diameter cue + nickel shaped elkmaster. although sometimes the elkmaster is a pain to keep in shape because its so soft.

Yes this has been my experience as well when experimenting with different tips. And as you noted, the shape of the tip will change/deform with a hard shot like a fast bank shot.

And this is why I use a hard tip. Because it keeps it shape longer. And I'm not only shooting draw shots, but also fast, slow, etc. So I selected the tip which I felt worked the best for all around play (Moori Q dime shaped on 12.5mm shaft).

I feel it is a great lesson to experiment with different tips. Very soft Elk Master, various other tips, pig skin, soft/medium/hard, phenolic, etc.

And once you do this experimenting, you will never again need to ask which is the best tip, because you will know what different tips do.

I think the *worst* thing a player can do with tips is to not know what brand/type/hardness/shape the tip on their cue is. Then get a new *different* tip installed.

And I think the best thing a player can do with tips is to experiment with different tips, select the tip they like the best, then use that same exact tip from now until eternity.

Also as someone noted, a beginning player will not notice any difference between various tips. So play a couple of years before experimenting. And does not matter much with a center ball hit. It is english, follow, draw, squirt, and consistency with these things which matters.

To me the true test of a tip is the following force follow shot. I can't shoot this shot with a cruddy house cue, but can with my tip. And few other players can shoot this shot using their cues, but can with mine. Shoot with extreme high and a little left - extreme follow through - fast shot. The cue ball needs to be rotating forwards faster than it is traveling (opposite of draw). So when it hits the far rail, the forward rotation makes the cue ball want to continue back toward the far rail after hitting the far rail...

http://endeavor.med.nyu.edu/~wei/pool/9egg/

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[Matt_24]

It is all in the stroke, not the equipment. I can draw the ball 28 table lengths with a #2 pencil. Equipment means absolutely nothing.

 

[supergreenman]

It is all in the stroke, not the equipment. I can draw the ball 28 table lengths with a #2 pencil. Equipment means absolutely nothing.

Can you please video tape this feat. Something like this shouldn't be hidden from the world!!!!