Question about finishing a cue

Pedi

Pedi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,

I use superglue to finish my cues. I tested a lot with different brads and now Ive got a verry good superglue which works fine for me.
The only problem I have is that when I sanded and buffed my cues there are allways micro fine scratches on the finish.
I use 3M products and they work great, but the last step to a perfect finish I never achieve. Anyone has a good solution for me?
Most customers tell me my finish looks great, but its not perfect if you understand what Im talking about.

Silvio


*** Gloria Cues ***
 
it all depends to grit of sandpaper you use, me ill start from 400 to 2000. And after that i sand it by 2000 and buff parallel to the cue. because on my observation those tiny scrathes are obtain during sanding on circular motion on the lathe..Try the parallel pattern and you will see what i mean..
And oh, i also used the 3m products really works great for me..
 
Last edited:
Do a search on "polishing compounds" on this forum. There was a recent thread here with a LOT of good information.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
I use 400 b/t coats to smooth out....

on final coat I WET sand 400/500/1000

then MICRO GRIT WET SAND 1500-12000

Then Meguires Swirl X and a carnuba wax......


SHINE SHINE SHINE!!!!!!

-Grey Ghost
 
Super glue has much more clarity than a film type of finish. It will show what scratches are left in the cue before sanding. It's just my opinion of coarse but I believe that a S/G finish is the worst finish to put on a cue.

Dick
 
I don't know what it is for sure Dick but you crack me up.
If I were to take a guess I'd say it's your pure honesty.
Be well and do good work.
 
rhncue said:
Super glue has much more clarity than a film type of finish. It will show what scratches are left in the cue before sanding. It's just my opinion of coarse but I believe that a S/G finish is the worst finish to put on a cue.

Dick
Click to expand...

Hi,

I don't like Super Glue finishes either!! Its a lot of work and is time consuming.

I have seen some great cue finishes with the stuff but I prefer to spay on my finishes.

Rick G
 
Pedi said:
Hi,

I use superglue to finish my cues. I tested a lot with different brads and now Ive got a verry good superglue which works fine for me.
The only problem I have is that when I sanded and buffed my cues there are allways micro fine scratches on the finish.
I use 3M products and they work great, but the last step to a perfect finish I never achieve. Anyone has a good solution for me?
Most customers tell me my finish looks great, but its not perfect if you understand what Im talking about.

Silvio


*** Gloria Cues ***
Click to expand...

I have used the stuff many many times and sometimes still do, I agree with what others say that this finish will highlight any mistakes but there are ways to get around this probelm.

When you get to the point where you are ready to start final sanding the finish. Do not spin the cue, sand back and forth from the front to the back or vise versa. When you have removed all the obvious surface blemishes wet sand in the same manner, start with 320 then use 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 all wet. Dry the surface and polish if you see any scratches do it again and concentrate on those area's. Then polish again and check your results.

Below is a thread that may interest you on this subject:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=58735&page=4&highlight=super+Glue+finish

Hope this helps
 
Thanks for all your replys! :thumbup:

I was testing a lot with different ca brand and accelerators. Then I found a shop with a guy who is selling ca for years and I told him what I want to do. I got a ca which has no accelerator in it and takes up to dry for about 1 hour. with the special accelerator you dry the ca and when you apply a new coat it starts drying form downside through the ca. so I have a perfect cristal clear finish.
Then I sand with 220 and 400 spinning and length ways. Then I wet sand from 600 to 2000 the same. After sanding I clean the surface and start polishing with 4 different 3M compounds. I use paper towels and tried also many different cloths. But everytime I polished there were this super fine scratches on the finish. You can see the scratches only when you go out and let the sun shine on the cue otherwise you dont see the scratches:confused:

I have no problems with may coustomers. My ca finish has much better shine then the original finishes of the most cues I had in my shop. But I want the perfect shine an never get it :angry:

Silvio


*** Gloria Cues ***
 
Paper towels are abrasive when you get to the finish you are after.
Soft cotton is the best material. Old cotton sheets make a good pollishing
cloth. You also have to be carefull about cross contamination from the previous
coarser grits of paper etc.
Go and see people who polish lenses,and get some of their compounds.They are
designed to cut hard materials(glass) and they go to very fine grits.
They may also sell you some of their polishing pads.They are flocked cotton onto
a backing that is attached with velcro.
You will also learn alot about polishing.
 
conetip said:
Paper towels are abrasive when you get to the finish you are after.
Soft cotton is the best material. Old cotton sheets make a good pollishing
cloth. You also have to be carefull about cross contamination from the previous
coarser grits of paper etc.
Go and see people who polish lenses,and get some of their compounds.They are
designed to cut hard materials(glass) and they go to very fine grits.
They may also sell you some of their polishing pads.They are flocked cotton onto
a backing that is attached with velcro.
You will also learn alot about polishing.
Click to expand...

Not all paper towels are create equal. You want a tight, flat, soft weave. :)

Mario
 
conetip said:
Paper towels are abrasive when you get to the finish you are after.
Soft cotton is the best material. Old cotton sheets make a good pollishing
cloth. You also have to be carefull about cross contamination from the previous
coarser grits of paper etc.
Go and see people who polish lenses,and get some of their compounds.They are
designed to cut hard materials(glass) and they go to very fine grits.
They may also sell you some of their polishing pads.They are flocked cotton onto
a backing that is attached with velcro.
You will also learn alot about polishing.
Click to expand...

my mother is a master seamstress.....I just brought back a huge box of fabric scrap she wanted me to bring to the goodwilll.....I said I CAN USE THAT FOR SURE!
 
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