Question about Lathe i'm thinking to get

If your going to use it for repairs the spindle must be able to accommodate the width of the butt of the cue so atleast 1-1/4" at the bare minimum... this is a major prerequisite, also If you can get atleast a 30" travel that would be preferred, then of course you need to invest in collets and drivers....

My suggestion to you is to check e-bay for a used porper model-b for example... it is already geared up for cuemaking and repairs and has all the bells and whistles, and you can pick them up occasinally at a real good price.... becasue new they are around 4000.00 fully equipped !!!

Even though model-a for doing basic repairs is essential becasue of all the drivers and fittings and collets that are included !!! and I have seen a few of those from time to time at about half the price of a "b"....

Just thought I would put my 2 cents in.... also thought you might be interested hearing from someone who has the 36th machine porper made and it's still going strong !!!

Goodluck !


- Eddie Wheat
 
Last edited:
Eddies is right but you really need a 1.38" spindle hole to be safe.

you really need to buy tones of stuff to build cues.i was schocked at how many machines,supplies,wood,etc are actuall needed to do it right.

Grizzly and Enco seem to have the best prices on metal lathes fom what i have seen.
 
It's the cost of machines, more than the materials that cause the price of cues to be where they are. I have currently 4 lathes, and still need 1 more.:D And I only sell shafts right now until the time I feel the quality of my work is worthy to sell as a complete cue. (Finish is the worst part!!!)
DAve
 
Dave38 said:
It's the cost of machines, more than the materials that cause the price of cues to be where they are. I have currently 4 lathes, and still need 1 more.:D And I only sell shafts right now until the time I feel the quality of my work is worthy to sell as a complete cue. (Finish is the worst part!!!)
DAve


wow there's alots to learn..even just to do shaft work..such as..ring work
replace the collin and stuff like that wat should i need for tat?
 
hypnauticz said:
wow there's alots to learn..even just to do shaft work..such as..ring work
replace the collin and stuff like that wat should i need for tat?


Goto Creative Inventions.com "Joe porper's website" for collets and drivers etc... and "Prathercues.com" and look at there catalog online and you'll get a basic idea of some of the pricing and materials that you will need for your endeavor !!!


- Eddie Wheat
 
Last edited:
For pretty close to the same money ($1495) you are looking for on that Jet you could get a Mid Size Cue Smith and already be able to do repairs. You could also make shafts out of Pre-tapered blanks and so on. For building butts from scrath you would be looking at about another $400 in extra tooling. See www.cuesmith.com
 
cueman said:
For pretty close to the same money ($1495) you are looking for on that Jet you could get a Mid Size Cue Smith and already be able to do repairs. You could also make shafts out of Pre-tapered blanks and so on. For building butts from scrath you would be looking at about another $400 in extra tooling. See www.cuesmith.com
roger that
 
hypnauticz said:
i come across homedepot and i found this

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=

i want to know is this a good or decent lathe to get ?
or is there's anything smaller that i can get to start to built cue or shaft with?

please help this new person with..thank you guys
My first lathe, 15 years ago, was a Porper "B". As was suggested, your ability to build cues will happen much quicker for you if you get a machine such as the Porper or the Hightower, or the Uniques lathes that are made specifically for that purpose.

By the way, I looked at that same Jet lathe a few years ago when I was looking for a 9x20. I opted to go for the Harbor freight model and paid less than half the cost with their 20% off coupon.

Gene
 
hypnauticz said:

I'll leave the "suitability" questions to the experts, but will comment that this is a very common lathe. A year ago I thought about getting one, and found this place to have the best pricing :

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_625_625

The 9x20 is sold by many many companies, under different names, and at different prices, but it is the same unit from the same factory. Be careful as to the accessory package included in the base price. Shop well.

Dave
 
DaveK said:
I'll leave the "suitability" questions to the experts, but will comment that this is a very common lathe. A year ago I thought about getting one, and found this place to have the best pricing :

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_625_625

The 9x20 is sold by many many companies, under different names, and at different prices, but it is the same unit from the same factory. Be careful as to the accessory package included in the base price. Shop well.

Dave


I looked at the specifications and the one main "red flag" that popped up was the 20" travel with between the spindle and tailstock...

This presents a problem with a 29" + shaft when attempting to taper, sand or finish the entire length of the shaft at once...

And of course this causes a problem with addressing the butt too !

My advice to you is to spend the extra money and get the proper equipment that you give you every option when it comes to repairing and/or building cues... I can't stress this enough !

If you buy a "deal" that cannot perforn the required cue repair tasks then you have wasted your money "in my opinion" !!!

As I said before there are many deals on e-bay and I'm sure az has a few also on equipment from time to time... I'm NOT telling you PORPER lathes are the ONLY way to go, I'm just pointing out the specifications of those machines that ARE and ARE NOT designed for our intended use !


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
 
Last edited:
Back
Top