QUESTION: BEST FERRULE MATERIAL TO USE FOR JUMP/BREAK Cue??

acedonkeyace

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am using a Tiger Icebreaker tip on a cue that will b used mostly for breaking, but I want to keep it legal in all sanctioned events.

So a solid Phenolic tip/ferrule is not allowed.

If I am using a Tiger IceBreaker Tip: Hybrid with the Center is Leather and the outer section is Phenolic.

What is the best material for the Ferrule?

Pad versus no pad, Ivor-X, Melamine, Linen, etc?

Does it make much of any difference?

Thanks for the opinions.

Mike

PS> THE ORIGINAL THAT WAS ON THE CUE WAS A ONE PIECE PHENOLIC FERRULE/TIP COMBO IN BLACK, if this is any help or is necessary to know.
 
Small ferrule 1/2 inch or lower, G10 small tennon uncapped with a super pro tip. or a broken in or pressed triangle This is great for breaking. Jump I'm unsure, but I use full g10 for jumping.

-Drew
 
That BCA rules against phenolic tips was dropped the year after it was enacted. It was just too difficult for the referee's to tell if a tip was legal or not. That rule also only applied to the tip, and not the ferrule.

Royce
 
The best all around and cheap tip for breaking is a phenolic one piece combo tip/ferrule.

Hard as a rock, it will take chalk, and there is no tip to pop off......

Kim
 
Hi,

If you can't break at cue ball speeds above 25 mph, most any ferrule with a Brown Water Buffalo tip will suit you fine as you can control whitey better. Not the black WB.

Players approaching 30 mph, now that is a different universe! While a Brown WB is still a great way to go, they can opt for a rounded hard ferrule as Kim suggested but not a material that is harder than the cue ball as it will damage the cue ball. Been there done that.

JMO,

Rick
 
The best all around and cheap tip for breaking is a phenolic one piece combo tip/ferrule.

Hard as a rock, it will take chalk, and there is no tip to pop off......

Kim

Problem with the one piece phenolic is that they don't last long. I have replaced a bunch that have split down the middle. Use G9 or G10 and you want have that problem.
 
Problem with the one piece phenolic is that they don't last long. I have replaced a bunch that have split down the middle. Use G9 or G10 and you want have that problem.

Could it be that you were using flat-lam mtrl. such as with the canvas weave?
Try the rolled/molded linen mtrl. and that problem goes away.

KJ
 
Could it be that you were using flat-lam mtrl. such as with the canvas weave?
Try the rolled/molded linen mtrl. and that problem goes away.

KJ

KJ, I noticed this problem when people brought their cues in for repair. Someone else had put on phenolic one piece and it split down the middle or on the edge. I don't know who was doing it but I would like to thank them as I made a lot of money changing them over to G10.
 
Well, bottom-line, whatever works for you is fine by me.
You may or may not be aware of this so this is more for the random reader.
The 'G' in G9/G10 indicates 'glass', glass particles/dust in epoxy resin.
I shy away from using any of the 'Gs' over concern of glass dust on the cloth.
Might be something to think about and/or possibly discuss.

KJ
 
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