Question for strong barbox players only!

[Bavafongoul]

Practice on the course you will be competing on…….it applies in golf and also pool.
7’ tables can get crowded with clusters easier than on a 9’ table. Cue ball speed is
the difference so get accustomed to the cue ball speed adjustment for a 7’ table.

 

[8cree]

Im no specialist, but I play on bar boxes once a week, and the rest of the week on my 9ft. Side pockets get big on the BB coming from the 9fter. I remind myself of that and usually fair pretty well. The speed this is definitely one to get used to as well.

 

[Mustardeer]

Get on the barbox as much as you possibly can & practice your safety play. Get proficient at those little touch shots that absolutely do require the most finesse. Make sure those safeties are locked up the best you can.

Play out every different scenario that you can think of that your opponent will try to play against you. Learn not only what is the appropriate response, but how to execute the return.

Work on running say three balls that are open & makeable, but yet still in a cluster. Most any good player can make balls when wide open. This not always going to be the case on a 7ft Diamond.

He wont play me 1 hole so doubt he’ll try to soft break and move. He’s hoping to 2-3-pack his way to the finish line most likely.

 

[Island Drive]

1. Practice with the cue ball being used.
2. Practice on the cloth that will be used.
3. #1 is extremely important to get #4 working.
4. You must develop the proper feel for the ''touch of inside release''.... then your able to Avoid, going two rails for shape unless you Have Too, it's critical on a box. Getting on the wrong side of your next ball/shot, gets you into trouble/traffic, because the ball set AREA on small table is HUGE compared to a full size table.

 

[Fore Rail]

He wont play me 1 hole so doubt he’ll try to soft break and move. He’s hoping to 2-3-pack his way to the finish line most likely.

Just remember this, winning pool is not all about offense & running out. Not every break is going to create a runout situation. Your oppponent and backer are playing you rotation on a 7 ft table for a reason. He doesn't have to soft break to outmove or outsmart you.

 

[Ģüśţāṿ]

You're absolutely going to want to practice on the type of table you'll be playing on, and keep in mind red label, blue label, etc all play a little different.

The biggest problem you'll likely experience is speed control for position. I primarily play on a barbox and the biggest advantage I have over 9ft players, is my position and cue ball placement is better. They will eventually adapt, but the first few games, I definitely have the edge. This is critical for clusters that need to be broken up, which you don't have many of on a 9ft.

Break speed will be another big factor, usually slower is better for pocketing balls in side.

 

[FeelDaShot]

This a tough question to answer. I grew up on barboxes and didn't fully become comfortable with 9 footers until much later in life. So whenever I go back to playing on a barbox it's just like riding a bike. No practice needed. However, I'm sure that could be totally different for others.

It also depends on your specific strengths and weaknesses. For me, I'm better at position play than ball pocketing so playing on a bar box becomes way easier since all of the shots are shorter and easier to pocket. Position play on a bar box can be a little more tricky but that's my strength anyways so it's no big deal.

Besides all of that, I think your biggest challenge will be adjusting to the gameplay management and mental side. You can't walk into the match thinking you're playing on a kiddie table and expecting to run a 5 pack. It doesn't work like that. You're at the mercy of the layout and you should expect to get a lot of lousy layouts. The bad rolls on a bar box can be brutal and really demoralize you if you're not used to them.

Table control is more of a major factor on a bar box. You might get one bad roll or make one small mistake and you can get punished for several racks by being frozen in your chair without many offensive opportunities. This is super common and you need to be mentally prepared for it and be patient. Just remember, you can just as easily do the same to your opponent. But only if you fully focus and play one shot at a time without taking any shots for granted or getting ahead of yourself.

Good luck!

 

[maha]

if you two are remotely close in speed he will eat your lunch on the small table unless you are close to equal in speed to him on his preferred venue.

ive played alot on both and no way could one that plays mostly on the other against me would have a chance.
if you are stubborn you had better every day make that 40 minute drive and practice a bunch. probably bring one of the pros you know along to teach you.

banks and safes will be a big part of your downfall.

good luck though

 

[ChrisinNC]

if you two are remotely close in speed he will eat your lunch on the small table unless you are close to equal in speed to him on his preferred venue.

I agree. A few years back I played a regular here who was about 10 years older than me (73 to my 63), on our lone Diamond barbox. He wouldn’t even play me on a big table which I play on exclusively, but said he’d play me on the barbox, on which he still played a strong game.

I gave him a similar spot to what I’d feel quite confident giving him on a big table. Needless to say he got the better of me, and I was in no hurry for a rematch on the barbox. The games/sets go by incredibly fast on a barbox, so you’d better be ready.

 

[loggerhead12]

See, this is why I have an 8-foot at home. No big deal to adjust either way.

 

[ChrisinNC]

See, this is why I have an 8-foot at home. No big deal to adjust either way.

The problem with that is you’re going to have to adjust one way or another anytime you play out. No pool room outside of Texas has 8 foot tables, or at least that used to be the case.

 

[Black-Balled]

Look how close you are.
You dirty dog.
You better not scratch on the break.

 

[pw98]

The problem with that is you’re going to have to adjust one way or another anytime you play out. No pool room outside of Texas has 8 foot tables, or at least that used to be the case.

Yea. I have a tight pro 8 and can go either way. The problem is as you said you are not overwhelmingly better on either.

A lot of the guys at the 9 foot hall are surprised at how good I am on the bb though. Most constantly blow shape.

And the bb players are surprised how good I am on a 9 footer.

 

[Bavafongoul]

The only 8’ tables you’ll find in the Fresno/Clovis area won’t be in any pool room.

Those tables are found in residences where a 9’ table wouldn’t fit and the option of
a 7’ table, Diamond brand or other, just did not appeal as a substitute for a 9’ table.

Sierra Billiards, where I usually play pool, has eight 9’ Diamond table and also seven 7’
Diamond tables. It opened last May and I have a mthly membership. Four of the 9’ tables
have smaller pockets (4.25” CP/4.75”SP). Since opening, I’ve never played on the 7’ tables.

 

[Willowbrook Wolfy]

I tend to find that on a 9’ you can send the cueball two rails often to get ideal shape along the line of the next shot. But on a bar box (especially with fast cloth) it sometimes means the speed needed to maintain the stun or draw required to come out two rails starts to threaten overrunning position. So on a bar box I tend to see one rail position being used more often. Nip, bounce. Nip, bounce. Nip, bounce. You might be needing to come across the line of the next shot instead of along it. So good luck on your speed control.

(I know there are still times two rail shapes apply on a bar box and honestly it’s worth setting up to use them. Just commenting that they might not be reliable “as often”)

Never thought about it that way before. Great explanation that makes a whole lotta sense. I just learned something and it makes more sense why I’m overrunning position by a couple inches playing the “lines”. Thanks Matt.

 

[Willowbrook Wolfy]

Diamond bar boxes can bounce springier than the diamond 9’. (Both blue label). That’s probably the biggest difference imo.

The break you’ll figure out in a few min. Copy what your opponent is doing if you’re not successful.

I just gambled 5 sets on a diamond barbox. We were using the magic rack. I was blasting them and my opponent was medium speed. I changed to medium speed and a slightly high hit. That made a couple balls and parked whitey. From the side rail.

Matters how you are playing. People keep telling me I need to break softer on bb and I keep telling them harder pops the 9 in more often on any size table. If the 9 counts break hard.
Edit..(after rereading yours)-I haven’t used a magic rack to test this. But definitely for regular rack and that’s what they are using.

 

[trob]

See, this is why I have an 8-foot at home. No big deal to adjust either way.

Actually an 8 foot table is the worst lol you don’t have the distance of the 9 foot or the clusters of a bar box. I find 8 foot tables to be extremely easy compared to either.
for example I always feel 8 ball is more suited for a 7 foot table because you have more clusters and it makes for a chess match and on a 9 foot table everything always seems to be wide open. rotation is better on a 9 footer because even if you play great position your gonna have to get your stroke out almost every rack at some point where as on a 7 foot table I can get just about anywhere with a little spin and a medium stroke. It’s pretty rate I have to hit a ball above that. On an 8 foot table I still have everything open playing 8 ball and I still don’t have to get my stroke out playing rotation. That foot either way makes a difference.

 

[trob]

First off, get "barbox" out of your head. The seven foot Diamond will play more like a nine foot Diamond than a seven foot Valley or clone. Not just like either though so I would find time to make a couple trips to the seven foot Diamonds in the last ten days before the matchup.

If the opponent is a small table master and plays smart you are going to sweat some. If I was trying to judge weight I would say the small table specialist could gain a half ball to a ball on the short track. You said you had an edge on paper, I think I would go in with the thought that you are dead even on a small table and you are going to have to scratch and dig from the first shot. Everything about position play and shape is going to be a little different. Work on your safety game some while I am thinking about it, safeties you play, safeties you shoot out of, are both going to be tighter.

These matches are always good fun for the spectators and peanut gallery. Main thing is not to go in taking either the table or your opponent lightly. The rude awakening can cost you a game or two before you get your balance back.

Hu

It’s why I have a diamond. Those guys with the short punchy stroke that works on a valley get real upset real quick when the shots they are used to seeing go in rattle in the hole Lol

 

[book collector]

Good luck and I hope you have a safe journey.

 

[btal]

I’m flying out of state next month to play 10b, 3 sets on a barbox ( diamond ), 3k a set, races to 15. I’m the favorite on paper ( fargo ) but I haven’t been playing. The problem is I only have a 9’ diamond at my place and the closest diamond barbox to me is 40 min away. The break is obviously gonna be a factor… Question, can I get ready on my home table or do I have to train on a 7’? I have a few cheap barbox practice sets lined up with friends. My work schedule is crazy ( I own a biz ), so I only have 2-3hrs a day this month to get ready. Not worried about the heat, not my 1st rodeo, but the other guy has been around too. I’ve asked a few pro friends and got completely different answers. I’m nowhere near pro speed myself.

Since you don't have access to a bar table, practice straight pool on your home table. It will hone the skills required for speed control and position play that you'll face. If you do have access .... practice on "both".