question on finish
- Thread starter BHQ
- Start date
I put on the finish only thick enough to fill the grain and allow me to get a baby's butt smooth, glass-like finish...too much dampens the feel of the cue IMO...
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I undercut my stainless joint collars by .006", then spray (& sand many coats) to make the finish flush. Yes, I believe the finish can be too thick. All you need is whatever it takes to protect the cue.stix4sale said:
the reason i am looking for the ideal thickness is, to be able to get close, very close to an exact joint size for a guy that already has his own shafts, or to be able to use those shafts on this particular cue. say for example, his shafts, finished dimension is .840". then my unfinished joint after turning and sanding should be ?????? .820?? allowing .020 for finish.
If I were making that same cue for the guy, I would make the joint size to be .828". (.006" thickness of finish x 2 = .012"). I would also keep my fingers crossed hoping the original joint screw had been perfectly centered.stix4sale said:
Better yet, I'd try to get my hands on the original cue to make certain it had been.
And you'd have twice the thickness of finish on the shaft. I'd be more than a little concerned about flex cracks or chipping with it that thick.rhncue said:
Another option would be to make a quick set of mandrells out of stainless.
You will definitely have problems if the finish is too thick. Cracking and shrinking magnify when there is too much there, depending on the type of finish you are using. Urethane gets to where it almost won't cure if there is too much on there. CA glue will crack if there is too much or if it is too hard.
I think .005 is about right. I have measured and played with thicker and thinner finishes of both types... seems like .005 is the magic sweet spot, at least in my experience.
I think .005 is about right. I have measured and played with thicker and thinner finishes of both types... seems like .005 is the magic sweet spot, at least in my experience.
rhncue said:
OHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
THat's what you meant. (Just kidding)
hello jeff, i assume that means .010" in overall diameter,PetreeCues said:
close to "tellitlikeitis" s .012".
so, anywhere between .010 and .015 would be an accurate calculation to turn joint to, unless i have the shafts to do as dickie suggested. that would be the easiest route, i think.
maybe i'm putting on too much finish. i thought it was closer to .020
stix4sale said:
Why would you ever want that much finish?
it isn't that i "wanted" that much finish, i just thought that that's approximately how much was on the cues. somebody told me that. i heard it somewhere, can't remember who it was though. just for kicks, i'm going to measure the next cue i spray before and after finish.Michael Webb said:
No need to be so confrontational Dick. It's just conversation, ya know?rhncue said:
TheBook said:
NO........JER
stix4sale said:
I cut the DIAMETER .020" smaller than the joint on the butt. Then when I add my normal finish, I can sand the shaft to fit. If I am in a hurry & using a super glue gel finish, I cut the shaft DIAMETER, .004"-.005" smaller than the butt...JER
stix4sale said:
I have sanding mandrels in three sizes. The first is for the first sanding before the sealer goes on. The second is for sanding after sealing and the third is for sanding after finishing. Each set is .005 larger than the other.