razor blade to trim tip?

P

pip9ball

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi all,

I've always trimmed down my tip using the lathe and making several passes until tip is approx same diameter as ferrule. I saw a cue repair guy at a local tournament install a tip and he used a razor blade placed on the ferrule and ran it across the tip to shave off the excess tip. I thought I'd give this a shot as it was much more effective and quicker. I purchased some single edge razor blades and lowes and tried this on a junk shaft and it just seemed to gum up (burnish) the tip. Is there a specific type of razor blade needed to do this or am I doing something wrong. Do I need to chage the direction of rotation because Im coming in from the backside?

Thanks in advance,

pip9ball
 
Use the Stanley utility knife blades. They cut real nice but get dull pretty quick. After about 4 or 5 tips flip the blade to the other end and get 4 or 5 more tips. I like to trim the tip down on a very slight angle to help the mushroom not be to big since most lepros and triangles and most non layered tips will mushroom a little as you brake them in. I also shape the tip with a blade resting on my tool post. It is a little tricky using the blade but with a little practice you will be amazed how much easier it is to do it this way. I learned this method watching Lenard Bludworth in Vegas about ten years ago. Hope this helps.
 
pip9ball said:
Hi all,

I've always trimmed down my tip using the lathe and making several passes until tip is approx same diameter as ferrule. I saw a cue repair guy at a local tournament install a tip and he used a razor blade placed on the ferrule and ran it across the tip to shave off the excess tip. I thought I'd give this a shot as it was much more effective and quicker. I purchased some single edge razor blades and lowes and tried this on a junk shaft and it just seemed to gum up (burnish) the tip. Is there a specific type of razor blade needed to do this or am I doing something wrong. Do I need to chage the direction of rotation because Im coming in from the backside?

Thanks in advance,

pip9ball
Click to expand...

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=21250&highlight=irwin
 
The titanium coated blade from Home Depot is the best.
BUT, BE VERY CAREFUL.
I tape the third of the blade where my right thumb and index finger grip.
AGAIN, be very careful. Have a good distance from the chuck and DO not take too much off the leather at once. Let it ribbon when cutting.
 
I have been using the blade method. I am having trouble getting the blade to go straight throught the tip. It always ends up tapering out and leaving the end of the tip bigger. any suggestions as to how to hold the blade to cure this or do I just need more practice?
 
NineBallNut said:
I have been using the blade method. I am having trouble getting the blade to go straight throught the tip. It always ends up tapering out and leaving the end of the tip bigger. any suggestions as to how to hold the blade to cure this or do I just need more practice?
Click to expand...



The angle of the blade you hold It at can make a big difference, and the fact that It wants to cut deeper as It goes does'nt help. For Me It's more feel then anything, and not forcing the blade, but at the same time you don't want to hold It too loosly either. alot of it is in the way you hold. I don't want to say turn the blade upwards as you go, but there's almost alittle resistence needed to keep It from cutting deeper on It's own.

I just have one of the common looking stanley handles, but It's fairly flat so lays up on My tool post well, and It makes a good steady rest.

You can easily cut too deep or too shallow. There's a fine line in the middle.

Yes, It is a practice makes perfect type of thing.

Greg C
 
Titanium coated utility knife blades made by Lenox are the best I have tried. I got mine at Lowes or Home Depot.
 
I bought a few different blade types, including the titanium coated Lenox blades Chris mentions. Everytime I try to trim the tip with the razor, the tip just burnishes and gets all over the end of the ferrule. I've tried it at different angles to no avail. The only thing I can think of is there isnt enough tip overhang for the blade to grab on to. Is there a minimum amount of overhang needed for this to work?

Thanks,

pip9ball
 
pip9ball said:
I bought a few different blade types, including the titanium coated Lenox blades Chris mentions. Everytime I try to trim the tip with the razor, the tip just burnishes and gets all over the end of the ferrule. I've tried it at different angles to no avail. The only thing I can think of is there isnt enough tip overhang for the blade to grab on to. Is there a minimum amount of overhang needed for this to work?

Thanks,

pip9ball
Click to expand...
You're holding the blade the wrong way I think.
It should be angled top towards the chuck a little, bottom towards your right, bottom down a little, and then you ease the blade onto the leather while the blade's body rests on the ferrule.
 
Joey,

Come again? I know I must be holding the blade incorrectly because I've seen other people do it with ease, however I am having a hard time trying to follow your directions. Perhaps you can elaborate more?

Thanks,

pip9ball
 
pip9ball said:
Joey,

Come again? I know I must be holding the blade incorrectly because I've seen other people do it with ease, however I am having a hard time trying to follow your directions. Perhaps you can elaborate more?

Thanks,

pip9ball
Click to expand...

Don"t feel bad, I've spent a small fortune on all of the blades mentioned & still can't do it...JER
 
I use a utility knife, and the best I could explain to someone is that laying the blade flat will not cut straight with most blades, but might burmish It, or ride over the top instead of cutting clean. There is usually an edge on the blades with a angle, that angle is what needs to lay flat more then anything, not the whole blade It'self. Also leaving a small lip on the tip before trimming with the blade does help somewhat, but not absolutly necesary once you get the feel for It. It does take practice though, and You have to be carefull not to cut into the ferrule or ruin the tip. Also some brand tips cut cleaner/easier then others. If facing the front of My jaws My lathe is turning in a counter clockwise direction, and I use My toolpost as a steady for the knife handle.
Hope this helps.:)

I know it can be a pain to get the method down, but It can be done. My Dad is up there in his golden years, and can't half see, but I was able to teach Him, and he has success with It, so It can be learned with practice. The better feel for It, the better you get at It. I can shave a mushroom in no time flat, and don't have to worry about a tool in My post cutting into the ferrule or having to sand on the tip till I get It to size.

Greg C
 
> Cue Crazy briefly mentioned something worthy of discussion here,and it is the direction of spin on your particular lathe. If the lathe is spinning clockwise,you should favor the backside of the machine for doing your cutting with the blade,otherwise the tip may grab the blade and jerk it right out of your hand and into a rapidly spinning chuck,or possibly your hand. This will give you religion. If the lathe is spinning counterclockwise,favor the front side. I've been trying to master this technique for over a year now,and still do not have 100% success with it,but don't do the volume of work that some of us here do either. I personally use the toolpost cutter to get within .005 or so,then use the blade to finish and shape. Tommy D.
 
Cue Crazy said:
I use a utility knife, and the best I could explain to someone is that laying the blade flat will not cut straight with most blades, but might burmish It, or ride over the top instead of cutting clean. There is usually an edge on the blades with a angle, that angle is what needs to lay flat more then anything, not the whole blade It'self.
Click to expand...


It's called a bevel. Angles on a razor or utility blades are quite small (usually 5° each bevel, 10° inclusive). If you can, best bet would be to find a chisel ground (bevel on one side only) blade to work with because then you can place the blade flat with the ferrule. Chisel ground blades will burr faster so unless you resharpen be prepared to discard them quicker than normal. Of course you could just raise the back of the blade up just a little. Better to go raise slow than fast because if you go past the angle you'll cut right into the ferrule. Place the blade on a table so the bevel is flat to see how much of an angle there is to get the feel of it. With practice (especially if anyone freehand sharpenes knives), the angle will just "click in" eventually and you can feel it.
 
Yes My bad, bevel would be a better description. Utility blades have that bevel on both sides unlike a chisal, so yes that's why you have to lay the edge flat and not the blade It'self.

Tommy, your right on, I am cutting from the front side, and I do this on a daily basis, so I guess I kind of forget how much all that practice is worth in feel.
They most certainly will dig in on You in a heartbeat, so there is a fine line. You can ruin a tip easily, so for the first timers practicing might be better on cheaper tips at first, and like You mentioned just practicing holding that bevel flat, and moving it straight on a table or something might be a good idea before trying It. I do tend to angle the back of the handle toward the tail stock some also, possible that may help give more control I'm not sure, but It's what I'm most comfortable with. I also set My post/steady up where It's most comfortable, so as to give me the most control possible.
You are correct, for me It's all about feel like many other things. It sure saves Me alot of time and hassle on some house cues that are near impossible to get centered. I have got to the point where I can even do them with some runnout, but that's even trickier because the blade will try to bounce around if you don't have a really good feel, and try to force things too much. I would'nt recomend It though because It just increases the danger, and chances of the blade digging in.

One other thing that may have been mentioned already, but you only get a few uses out of a blade, and It' a good thing to keep a fresh one in there as much as possible. Hopefully between all of us some of this info will help those trying to learn, and keep them safe:) . Greg C
 
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