Recessed Light for pool table?

okinawa77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone have any ideas on the best way to align recessed lighting for a 9 foot pool table?

I have 5 lights (1 that just points down, and 4 that are adjustable).

I'm thinking maybe have the stationery one smack dab in the middle, but not sure if I want the eye-ball lights directly over the pockets and pointing the light inward toward the center......or some other way?...
 

BobTfromIL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have recessed lighting over my table, works fine. I do have 6 fixtures with one each
corner and two over the table. The ceiling height is 8'. Most of the time I only need the the
two center lamps. I use floodlamps.
 

BobTfromIL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
any chance you have a pic of your lighting?

Be glad to, haven't been able to post pic's to the forum seem to be too big
if you like please pm me your e-mail address and I'll send you some.

Bob
 

Mikjary

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Recessed lighting is fairly directional unless the bulb extends below the surface of the ceiling. A general rule of thumb I use is that the light circle is equal to the distance the light is away from the surface to illuminate. In other words, if you shine the light down from an eight foot ceiling to the floor, the light circle diameter will be about eight feet across.

Since most tables are approximately 30-32 inches high, you will have a light circle diameter about 64-66 inches wide with an eight foot ceiling. If you overlap these diameters, you can eliminate all shadows.

Best,
Mike
 

APA Operator

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Recessed lighting is fairly directional unless the bulb extends below the surface of the ceiling. A general rule of thumb I use is that the light circle is equal to the distance the light is away from the surface to illuminate. In other words, if you shine the light down from an eight foot ceiling to the floor, the light circle diameter will be about eight feet across.

Since most tables are approximately 30-32 inches high, you will have a light circle diameter about 64-66 inches wide with an eight foot ceiling. If you overlap these diameters, you can eliminate all shadows.

Best,
Mike

I think we can actually do the math all the way here. If you want to have one row of lights down the center of the long dimension of the table, you want to make sure to use only the portion of the light circle that is at least 54" wide, so the light reaches from side rail to side rail. If you fit a rectangle inside the light circle such that two sides of the rectangle are parallel to the end rails and 54" long, how long are the other two sides? That will tell you how far apart, at a maximum, you should put the lights.

Using a 65" diameter as an example, the unknown length of the rectangle calculates to about 36.2". Thus, you can put one light in the center, and one 36" away on each side and cover the table with three lights.

You should measure the distance from your ceiling to your table, then do the math for that diameter.

One thing to remember is that you're not eliminating shadows with the lights above the table. If you don't place your lights so that they illuminate the entire surface, yes you will have dark spots, but these spots are not shadows. Shadows are caused by objects (like the rails, or other light fixtures) blocking light from sources other than your table lights. For example, when a bunch of tables are set up in a ballroom like in the casinos for big tournaments, each table light will cast a shadow on the next table unless the ballroom lighting is dimmed. That's why the room is darkened while the tables are in use.

So, while you can measure and calculate what's required to cover the surface of the table with light, you can only remove all shadows by eliminating other light sources that may significantly illuminate your table.
 

BobTfromIL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here is a photo of my set-up 4 lamps are approximately on the corners and two lamps
centered over the table. Most of the time two lamps are sufficient. DSC00046.jpg
 

BobTfromIL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I should have mentioned that when picture was taken table hadn't had the ball box installed.
Also thanks to BHQ cues for the assist with the photo.
 

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi Bob,

Thanks for posting the pics. If you have played on the following light styles, would you be able to give them each a relative rating to each other?

1. Diamond style large fluorescent lighting that is approximately the same width and length as table surface

2. Medium size fluorescent lighting found in many pool halls (2 lights wide, length of table long)

3. Incandescent 3 bulb lights found in many pool halls, and usually sold to home consumers.

4. Your recessed lighting setup.

Thanks greatly.
 

BobTfromIL

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi Bob,

Thanks for posting the pics. If you have played on the following light styles, would you be able to give them each a relative rating to each other?

1. Diamond style large fluorescent lighting that is approximately the same width and length as table surface

2. Medium size fluorescent lighting found in many pool halls (2 lights wide, length of table long)

3. Incandescent 3 bulb lights found in many pool halls, and usually sold to home consumers.

4. Your recessed lighting setup.

Thanks greatly.

I haven't played on a Diamond set-up, have played with 4' fluorescent. Probably at sometime or other played with different style lights. My opinion for consistent shadow free
lighting the recessed fixtures work the best. Because of the ceiling height this was the best option available to me, also just worked out to be excellent lighting.
 

Cdryden

Pool Addict
Silver Member
Thanks, really like it. 8' Brunswick anniversary. Lost the original skirting and had to replace it with solid maple, loses some of it's originality but I don't mind.

I have a number for a guy somewhere that has a ton of brunswick parts. I can try to find it if you like.
 
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