Reducing deflection

L

Lamar

Registered
Hi guys.

I have a high custom cue. The cue plays great and the hit is superb, but I have problems with spin cause I come from a LD shaft, deflection of the cue is high and after 6 months I still feel I can't play my best.

I was thinking about reduce the diameter to 12,7 pro taper (the shaft is 13mm). Can I expect a significative reduction of deflection?

Thanks, any opinion will be appreciate.
 
you might want to ask your question in the ask the cuemaker section
 
DoubleD said:
...then figuring out that none of this actually did anything for your game because LD is bogus anyway.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with you. I'm going to suggest to the OP to buy a Predator or OB 12.75 shaft from Seyberts. It is returnable if you do not like it. Check with them on the return/refund policy.
 
I agree with Eightballjunkie: its going to need a shaft taper into the 11.0-11.5mm range to see a great decrease in deflection.
 
Slimming the radius from 13 to 12.7 will reduce the volume by a little less than 5%.

Also, I believe I remember reading that Low deflection shafts only reduce the deflection by about a third.

You may have had to compensate a little less for your LD shaft, and that may have improved your game a bit, but it may have been covering up flaws in your stroke or aiming compensation.

To be absolutely top notch with either you'll have to really study the deflection of whatever shaft you choose.
 
I would try shortening the ferrule before anything. You can also purchase a LD shaft to fit your cue. You should be playing with whatever helps you play your best. A cue is a piece of equipment after all, and if your equipment isn't the best equipment for your game, you need to think about the reasons you're using it. A big name cuemaker can't buy you a game, you should be playing with whatever cue gives you the best advantage and opportunity to take down the cash.
 
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I wouldn't mess with altering the shaft(s). Your best option is to buy a low deflection shaft as others have suggested. It will be cheaper considering the cost to alter them and you will keep the integrity of the original shafts if you ever decide to sell the cue.


.
 
I just want to extend on something angldemn touched on. If you can't deal with cue ball squirt with a "standard" shaft, you'll still have that issue with a low-squirt shaft. Squirt won't be as bad a problem, but it will still cause you to miss a shot once in a while if you don't compensate.

I'd say get used to compensating for squirt first, so you are aware of squirt and consider it as part of your pre-shot-routine. Once you have a consistent handle on it, then switch to an LD shaft. With the LD you still have to compensate, but you can back way off when you compensate.

I am not against "low deflection" shaft technology, not at all. But LD shafts also require compensation for squirt, and that's just a fact of life. The goal is to get familiar with compensation and embedding it in your mind as something to consider whenever you apply English. Otherwise, by just avoiding by moving to an LD shaft, you avoid making squirt consideration part of your pre-shot-routine.

Good luck.
 
Let it turn down to 11.5 mm
Tell the cuemaker to cut half of the ferul off AND that he has to turn down the first 4 inches parallel (just behind the ferule) and the rest conical.
This is NOT a joke. I have done this already 50 times for my students and when it is done right it reduces the deflection to a range that is in between a z shaft and a 3/14 2 shaft.
If you don't believe try it with
A different shaft first. YOU WILL LOVE THE RESULT!!!
 
I can 100% agree here with EKKES,

turning it down to 11.75 or 12.00mm will already give you a different result (noticable!). Many don t understand, that the Taper itself also has a big influence if it s about LD and playability.

lg
Ingo
 
abs said:
I just want to extend on something angldemn touched on. If you can't deal with cue ball squirt with a "standard" shaft, you'll still have that issue with a low-squirt shaft. Squirt won't be as bad a problem, but it will still cause you to miss a shot once in a while if you don't compensate.

I'd say get used to compensating for squirt first, so you are aware of squirt and consider it as part of your pre-shot-routine. Once you have a consistent handle on it, then switch to an LD shaft. With the LD you still have to compensate, but you can back way off when you compensate.

I am not against "low deflection" shaft technology, not at all. But LD shafts also require compensation for squirt, and that's just a fact of life. The goal is to get familiar with compensation and embedding it in your mind as something to consider whenever you apply English. Otherwise, by just avoiding by moving to an LD shaft, you avoid making squirt consideration part of your pre-shot-routine.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Regardless of the shaft, one still needs to compensate for squirt (and swerve and throw). Also, LD shafts have both advantages and disadvantages.

Good post,
Dave
 
theUBC said:
Let it turn down to 11.5 mm
Tell the cuemaker to cut half of the ferul off AND that he has to turn down the first 4 inches parallel (just behind the ferule) and the rest conical.
This is NOT a joke. I have done this already 50 times for my students and when it is done right it reduces the deflection to a range that is in between a z shaft and a 3/14 2 shaft.
If you don't believe try it with
A different shaft first. YOU WILL LOVE THE RESULT!!!
Click to expand...
If you also drill out the core of the end of the shaft (like Predator), you can reduce the squirt (AKA CB deflection) even further.

FYI, info on how to reduce endmass (and the resulting amount of shaft squirt), along with some measurements and analysis of the effects of different amounts of endmass changes, can be found here:

Regards,
Dave
 
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