Refinished shaft warped

LosOsosCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok I had a meucci sneaky pete not to long ago in for a refinish. All went well and I even made him a new shaft. I ran into him on tuesday and he showed me his old shaft and It had a woble in it. Now I used a UV finish and my question is could the heat from the light affected the shaft and made it move? For those of you who dont know the UV light has to be quite close mine is 6" away and I hold it under for 7 seconds. It had 4 coats all together. I am just looking to see if its my fault.

Thanks
Dustin Cookson
 
i wouldn't think it is your fault.i have seen some weird things happen during refinishes.i tend to blame the shipping and different environments more than anything.

that being said i am not an expert on UV paint set ups so take it for what it's worth.
 
LosOsosCues said:
Ok I had a meucci sneaky pete not to long ago in for a refinish. All went well and I even made him a new shaft. I ran into him on tuesday and he showed me his old shaft and It had a woble in it. Now I used a UV finish and my question is could the heat from the light affected the shaft and made it move? For those of you who dont know the UV light has to be quite close mine is 6" away and I hold it under for 7 seconds. It had 4 coats all together. I am just looking to see if its my fault.

Thanks
Dustin Cookson
I'd find it hard to believe that it could be "your" fault. You're not responsible for the conditions in which your customer stores their cues. How long ago was the refinish? Has the customer always kept their cue in ideal storage conditions? I bet that your customer played with the new shaft more, made space in his case by removing the old shaft, and left the old shaft somewhere that would affect it.
 
LosOsosCues said:
Ok I had a meucci sneaky pete not to long ago in for a refinish. All went well and I even made him a new shaft. I ran into him on tuesday and he showed me his old shaft and It had a woble in it. Now I used a UV finish and my question is could the heat from the light affected the shaft and made it move? For those of you who dont know the UV light has to be quite close mine is 6" away and I hold it under for 7 seconds. It had 4 coats all together. I am just looking to see if its my fault.

Thanks
Dustin Cookson

Dustin, did you do any turning on the old shaft? Cleaning or anything?

Thanks Craig
 
Yes I did clean the shaft. I use Chris Hightowers shaft cleaner. I used 1000 grit on up to 2000 grit. I sealed and then burnished the shaft as ive done on all shafts. I just cant remember if it had any run out. He has used the new shaft alot and it dead strait. He says that he is missing more balls now with the old shaft but that could just be the adjustment you would need to make from one shaft tapper to another.

Dustin
 
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Even if there was a little run out in the old shaft, I doubt he would be missing more balls than normal with it. He probably rolled it on the table and now it's all in his head.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
Even if there was a little run out in the old shaft, I doubt he would be missing more balls than normal with it. He probably rolled it on the table and now it's all in his head.








Yep, I agree, That's why If they don't ask, then I usually don't even mention any minor run out to the customer unless It effects a repair being properly performed, or is so bad that they may not want to waste the money on repairing a warped shaft. The mind is a powerful element to a person's game, and putting the thought in their head can do more harm then good IMO.

With that said down here in Fla. I don't see many shafts pass through My lathe that don't at least have a minor amount of run out to them. It can make even some of the most basic repairs a pain in the Butt when things would be much easier if they only ran true to begin with.
 
It's always a good idea to roll a shaft before & after a repair. As for this one take it bake & HANG it for a few days. It may go back where he says it was...JER
 
With UV why not blue tape the rest of the shaft so it doesn't get heated up?
Meucci taper too? I'd refuse to copy that.
 
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LosOsosCues said:
Ok I had a meucci sneaky pete not to long ago in for a refinish. All went well and I even made him a new shaft. I ran into him on tuesday and he showed me his old shaft and It had a woble in it. Now I used a UV finish and my question is could the heat from the light affected the shaft and made it move? For those of you who dont know the UV light has to be quite close mine is 6" away and I hold it under for 7 seconds. It had 4 coats all together. I am just looking to see if its my fault.

Thanks
Dustin Cookson

Dustin, is it possible that there maybe clear coat on the face of the joint? It may just need to be re-faced.

Jim.
 
Just where is the warp at? Even if using a U.V. finish only 6" or so should have been under the light anyway.

Dick
 
The warp in in the middle. You are correct only the first 6" were under the light. I personaly dont think I had anything to do with the warp but I was just checking to see if this has happend to anyone.

Thanks again for all the replies
Dustin Cookson
 
Is there any chance he's now using the old shaft just for breaking? He may be bending it on the table when he breaks and that may have caused the "warp".
 
I would first check the joint face for clear coat. The uv light should not heat the wood enough to cause any issues unless you are using some clear with a long cure time or something like that. My uv setup cures in aprox 3 -5 seconds per coat and the wood does not really go above room temprature.
I would say I get in more shafts with runout than without. Most customers never look at the shaft when they hand them to you but alot roll the shaft when they get it back. I now roll every shaft before I accept it from a first time customer and point out any excessive runout before I take it. I don't mention slight taper rolls as most cues have some miniscule ammout of roll that in no way affects the cue but will mentaly affect the player if I point it out. In that respect I wish there was a standard table of shaft runout standards. That would help somewhat in cases of repairs, selling cues second hand, ect... I have had countless cues thru my shop where someone buys a used cue on ebay and it was sold as dead straight. In the shop the shaft will have a few thou of runout and the buyer is pissed. I know it will likely never happen but it would be nice if there was an industry standard that most could agree on. Chris.
 
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