Replacing 3/8x10 with 3/8x10
- Thread starter spliced
- Start date
Hi Ian
The only person who can correctly answer that without seeing it is the guy who made the cue. I would say most definate on chasing it with a drill and tap anyway just to clean out what's left after removing the pin.
The only person who can correctly answer that without seeing it is the guy who made the cue. I would say most definate on chasing it with a drill and tap anyway just to clean out what's left after removing the pin.
dave sutton
Banned
I use the same tap for both style pins. The only difference is the sw style has a flat shoulder and needs boring to install
I hope I understood your question right
I hope I understood your question right
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I dunno how it can have more shaft contact if it's already bored .312.fullsplicefiend said:
The minor on the other 3/8 10 is .308.
i think Joey is right,you need to drill with .308" bit.i actually use a .307" but it works fine.i think my tailstock may be .0005-.001" anyway.
i don't think you will get the benefit of the pin unless you drill with a smaller bit.i also tap with a smaller tap too,and the head of the tap need to be .308" or a hair under.i only use that one plug tap.
as far as for the butt.i think it will work if the hole is deep enough after you bore .382" for the alignment barrel.hoefully you still have enough threads left in there to take the new pin.i have the depth of the barrel marked on my boring bar,so i am not sure how deep off the top of my head,but i would guess 1.5".
if that makes any sense at all.
i don't think you will get the benefit of the pin unless you drill with a smaller bit.i also tap with a smaller tap too,and the head of the tap need to be .308" or a hair under.i only use that one plug tap.
as far as for the butt.i think it will work if the hole is deep enough after you bore .382" for the alignment barrel.hoefully you still have enough threads left in there to take the new pin.i have the depth of the barrel marked on my boring bar,so i am not sure how deep off the top of my head,but i would guess 1.5".
if that makes any sense at all.
dave sutton said:
I forgot they still use those kind of pins,
Sheldon's nailed it. Once again the voice of reason prevails. The swap makes no sense. There is absolutely nothing to be gained. The cue will have the exact same hit as before the surgery but your wallet will be a little lighter. That's the only thing that will change. Far too much emphasis is placed on the correlation btwn. the pin & hit. The vibrations that we associate with the hit travel North to South. They couldn't care less about contact with the minor diameter of the pin. The purpose of any pin is to connect the shaft to the handle securely, nothing more.
The OP stated he was contemplating this conversion on a sneaky. If it's a true sneaky, wood/wood there is nothing to be gained by messing with the joint. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The OP stated he was contemplating this conversion on a sneaky. If it's a true sneaky, wood/wood there is nothing to be gained by messing with the joint. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Sheldon said:
So why, are the S.W. styled pins becoming more popular when most are using the same old tap and just a different hole size with them?
More wood contact between the threads. Thicker wood between the threads less chance of stripping out when tightening the shaft down.
What I cant understand if what I said is right why is it that barringerr cues sell this pin and every cue I have seen built by them that comes around my area all the shafts are stripped out now threads left in them and wobbleing. Is he not boring the right size hole or sealing the threads on the shafts correctly. I have only seen a dozen of them in the last year.
Bob Hunter switched to this modified thread and I havent had a problem with any of the 8 cues I have of his.
Craig
What I cant understand if what I said is right why is it that barringerr cues sell this pin and every cue I have seen built by them that comes around my area all the shafts are stripped out now threads left in them and wobbleing. Is he not boring the right size hole or sealing the threads on the shafts correctly. I have only seen a dozen of them in the last year.
Bob Hunter switched to this modified thread and I havent had a problem with any of the 8 cues I have of his.
Craig
wow!n10spool said:
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n10spool said:
Hi Craig
I would ask Joe, Better to start at the source rather than speculate, The only thing most of us will agree on here, on a regular basis is.
We agree to disagree. Sometimes it's interesting.
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masonh said:
No Sir, Not in your head. Better for you equals, Personal choice.
I use the radial pin and am completely happy with it.
I think it's more quiet than the regular 3/8 10 and 5/16 varieties.
I think it's more quiet than the regular 3/8 10 and 5/16 varieties.
dave sutton
Banned
maybe im crazy but i did a few reg 3x8-10 pins and still do. then i changed to the sw style 10 pin and i think it plays better. i leave that a little longer and it feels more solid. maybe it in my head. i like the look better too.
dave sutton said:
But you also do stainless joints also with a 5/16X14, Personal choice and versatility, no one is wrong.