Replacing joint pin/insert?

dave sutton said:
do you think new wood in the shaft will hold as well as phenolic?

o been planning the same conversion if this cue doesnt sell. i love my shaft i dont wana scrap it. worried about loosing center bad

currently ss 5x16-14 piloted

will be 3x8-10 sw style FF ivory
Use bocote inserts.
Glues and threads great.
 
jazznpool said:
Hey Phillip, This kind of repair is relatively easy if you have the equipment--although you are running the risk of warping the forearm. One problem is achieving maximum concentricity of newly installed pin and re-tapped shaft. Assuming this has been addressed, another hurdle is how can you possibly set up to face the joint and shaft on centers with the cue companion? If you want the joint faces to come together with any precison, you need to have a lathe that will accomodate this procedure. I'll bet dollars to donuts you'll eventually be upgrading and adding to your cue repair/ buiding equipment...sounds like you're getting the bug!

Martin

Hi Martin, I've had the bug for some time now...just can't decide on what machine to get! I don't have any machining experience so I was thinking of either getting a deluxe cuesmith or attending some machining 101 classes at my Junior college. The cue building industry is very fascinating to me....and also pretty expensive to start. I don't want to invest thousands of dollars into machinery and shoot myself because I don't know what the heck Im doing :-)

I already have Chris's book, which has helped me understand the basics. However, I learn best by experience which is why I'm attempting this in the first place. This is one of my own personal cues which is beat up pretty bad so not too worried about trashing it if things go terribly wrong. Hopefully I can take away something from this!

Thanks!

-Phillip
 
I use maple cores because that is what the shaft is made out of. I would only use something different upon the request of the customer.
 
pip9ball said:
Hi Martin, I've had the bug for some time now...just can't decide on what machine to get! I don't have any machining experience so I was thinking of either getting a deluxe cuesmith or attending some machining 101 classes at my Junior college. The cue building industry is very fascinating to me....and also pretty expensive to start. I don't want to invest thousands of dollars into machinery and shoot myself because I don't know what the heck Im doing :-)

I already have Chris's book, which has helped me understand the basics. However, I learn best by experience which is why I'm attempting this in the first place. This is one of my own personal cues which is beat up pretty bad so not too worried about trashing it if things go terribly wrong. Hopefully I can take away something from this!

Thanks!

-Phillip

If you want to get into making cues I would go with a Hightower Deluxe Cuesmith with the bigger headstock or a Porper model B, Both come with every thing you need except maybe the taps amd some other small tooling. I have had a Hightower in the past and loved it. I use a cue companion at our pool room for repairs. Unique Products makes Cuemaking lathes as well but I havent had any experiance with it. Check out each companies websites and give them a call if you need to, Chris is very helpfull as is Brian And Jim at Unique, I have spoken with the Porper people but just at trade shows and such. Good Luck
 
Usually maple, but there have been times when phenolic was used. Always glued in scoring the plug and with 24 hour epoxy.

Martin


dave sutton said:
wood or phenolic martin
 
Phillip, If there's an opportunity to donate some part-time hours with a knowledgeable maker in your area, it will cut years off the learning curve. PM me if you're ever interested in visiting the guys you already know in my network here. If you came down for a day or two there's a good chance you could make some sawdust. I just bit the bullet and bought a nearly new Porper Model B. No way would I want to rely on it alone to make cues, but it's a great machine for many things...including run of the mill repairs. I'm grateful for the opportunity to learn and am happy to be a part-time assistant for the time being. The learning is never ending and I have found many cuemakers to be generous with sharing their knowledge of the craft. BTW, there's soon to be more cuemakers than poolplayers!:eek: :D :eek:

Martin


pip9ball said:
Hi Martin, I've had the bug for some time now...just can't decide on what machine to get! I don't have any machining experience so I was thinking of either getting a deluxe cuesmith or attending some machining 101 classes at my Junior college. The cue building industry is very fascinating to me....and also pretty expensive to start. I don't want to invest thousands of dollars into machinery and shoot myself because I don't know what the heck Im doing :-)

I already have Chris's book, which has helped me understand the basics. However, I learn best by experience which is why I'm attempting this in the first place. This is one of my own personal cues which is beat up pretty bad so not too worried about trashing it if things go terribly wrong. Hopefully I can take away something from this!

Thanks!

-Phillip
 
Last edited:
dave sutton said:
wood or phenolic martin

I use linen phenolic for shaft inserts all the time, it works fine and I have never had a problems with it. I use it for 3/8-10, 5 1/6-14 and 5 1/6-18, I generally use the same rod I use for jump break ferrules. I normally bore a hole out to 7/16 for the insert, the materal hols threads well, and glues very.
 
manwon said:
I use linen phenolic for shaft inserts all the time, it works fine and I have never had a problems with it. I use it for 3/8-10, 5 1/6-14 and 5 1/6-18, I generally use the same rod I use for jump break ferrules. I normally bore a hole out to 7/16 for the insert, the materal hols threads well, and glues very.




Nothing wrong with it at all Craig, I've used it many a time too, and never had a problem, though I guess it just depends on the person and what feel they want. The one personal cue I have been able to hold on to has 2 shafts i built, one has a brass insert and the other has phenolic, both are piloted, for some reason i can feel the minute difference in weight when i pull one out of the case, but as far as the feel is concerned they feel the same to me, It seems to hit just as crisp as the brass. really they both feel like the same shaft to me once on the cue. I'm sure there's some difference in balance, but I don't notice when the cue is together, and i have noticed I don't really favor to either shaft for a long periods of time.
 
Cue Crazy said:
Nothing wrong with it at all Craig, I've used it many a time too, and never had a problem, though I guess it just depends on the person and what feel they want. The one personal cue I have been able to hold on to has 2 shafts i built, one has a brass insert and the other has phenolic, both are piloted, for some reason i can feel the minute difference in weight when i pull one out of the case, but as far as the feel is concerned they feel the same to me, It seems to hit just as crisp as the brass. really they both feel like the same shaft to me once on the cue. I'm sure there's some difference in balance, but I don't notice when the cue is together, and i have noticed I don't really favor to either shaft for a long periods of time.

Thanks, another reason I like the phenolic over the brass is the tightness of the fit. Brass inserts are sloppy, and always loose unless the shaft is torqued down real tight. Last, it is the only thing I use on the cues I build, because if someone screws up the insert it is easy to replace, drill out the old one and put a new one in. To date I have only had to replace one insert in two years.

Have a great night!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Mc2 said:
Removing the pin is the easy part. You will need to heat up the pin with a soldering iron or pencil tourch. Be carfull you don't want to hurt the clear coat. Once you heat up the pin and glue, you can back the pin out with pliers. Now the insert will most likely be brass with an od of 7/16". If you remove this from the shaft, the hole left is already too big for the common 3/8" pin. That is the tricky part. I wouldn't bother. I would just make a new shaft. It of course would be possible to fill this area in and re-drill and tap.

good luck, Jim.


around how long wiil it take to sufficiently heat a 3x8 x 10 pin w/ a soldering gun. my 25 watt gun goes up to 750 degrees
 
....

I was thinking about changing a uni loc to a 3/8 10 or Radial.. How hard would that be.. and how much would it cost
 
Last edited:
Back
Top