Replacing pin in a cue

ftgokie

D player extraordinaire
Silver Member
I was given a nice cue. It was missing the pin though. The cue came standard with a 3/8x12 pin...I am wanting to replace the pin with a 3/8x11 pin....do I need to put epoxy in the pin hole to help seal the pin in, or just screw it in. ..I will be using a lathe to do this...so it will be centered
 
Since the pin you want to use is a different TPI (threads per inch) than the original, you'll need to bore out the old threads, plug the hole, then drill and bore out a new hole for the new pin and tap it for the new pin type. Then yes, you'll want to use epoxy to adhere the new pin. Be sure to cut glue relief slots in the lower portion of your pin to reduce the chance of cracking the forearm due to hydrolic pressure build up when installing it using the epoxy. If you would classify yourself as a beginner at cue repair, you may want to practice this procedure on a scrap dowel first. You may also want to consider buying Chris Hightower's dvd set on cue repair. It's a terrific place to start.
Mr H
 
Mr Hoppe said:
Since the pin you want to use is a different TPI (threads per inch) than the original, you'll need to bore out the old threads, plug the hole, then drill and bore out a new hole for the new pin and tap it for the new pin type. Then yes, you'll want to use epoxy to adhere the new pin. Be sure to cut glue relief slots in the lower portion of your pin to reduce the chance of cracking the forearm due to hydrolic pressure build up when installing it using the epoxy. If you would classify yourself as a beginner at cue repair, you may want to practice this procedure on a scrap dowel first. You may also want to consider buying Chris Hightower's dvd set on cue repair. It's a terrific place to start.
Mr H

Thanks Mr H...I am new to cue repair..I am going to buy Chris' dvd set to start the learning process....and the glue relief is what I was thining also....becaus if you didnt have a place for it to escape..it would like you said..be like hydraulics and probably crack the wood from the pressure.... I have alot of common sence....:grin: And yea....with going with diff pitch threads...i was thinking of using epoxy to fill the hole...letting it set good..then drilling and tapping it for new pin....
 
ftgokie said:
i was thinking of using epoxy to fill the hole...letting it set good..then drilling and tapping it for new pin....

You don't want to fill it with epoxy before boring your new hole and threads. Bore it out as is now, to remove the existing epoxy and threads. Bore it to a specific diameter then glue in a wood dowel slightly smaller to allow for the glue. Then center drill, drill, bore, and tap for your pin. I like West System's G5 epoxy for installing pins, but work quickly . . .
Mr H
 
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BLACKHEARTCUES said:
What kind of lathe are you using?...JER

Here is a pic of my shop....My dad is giving me an old Birmingham lathe this weekend..we have to get it out of his shop to make room for his new one
 

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ftgokie said:
Here is a pic of my shop....My dad is giving me an old Birmingham lathe this weekend..we have to get it out of his shop to make room for his new one

I'm jealous............

<~~~could have used the vertical saw for chopping up a few of my first cues..................
 
ftgokie said:
I was given a nice cue. It was missing the pin though. The cue came standard with a 3/8x12 pin...I am wanting to replace the pin with a 3/8x11 pin....do I need to put epoxy in the pin hole to help seal the pin in, or just screw it in. ..I will be using a lathe to do this...so it will be centered

Since you are going from a finer thread to a courser thread, and since they are both 3/8 th you may just be able to re-tap the hole. I try re-taping before you core and plug the forearm, it work just fine.

Take Care
 
I see a lot of equipment, in your photos, that is made to work on metal, but nothing to indicate you have any knowledge of working on cues or wood. The process to drill & tap the holes for the shaft & butt takes some special tooling. Not just a LATHE., but a lathe that has TWO chucks. One on the front of the headstock & a second mounted on the back of the headstock. This will hold the work piece PERFECTLY level, which is needed to drill & tap the hole you are talking about doing...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I see a lot of equipment, in your photos, that is made to work on metal, but nothing to indicate you have any knowledge of working on cues or wood. The process to drill & tap the holes for the shaft & butt takes some special tooling. Not just a LATHE., but a lathe that has TWO chucks. One on the front of the headstock & a second mounted on the back of the headstock. This will hold the work piece PERFECTLY level, which is needed to drill & tap the hole you are talking about doing...JER

Yes, the tools and machinery in my shop so far are basically for metalworking. I do alot of welding and such for people in my spare time. Right now I am making a front end bucket for a tractor for someone..

I have always had an interest in making cues and repairing them, just was never in a spot financially that I could do it, but now I am. I have a couple contacts that are well known cuemakers and I am getting advice from them on what I need to make cues...the main shop you seen in the photoes will not be where I make cues though...there is another room behind this room that I will have all my cue making equipment in...that room is 15x30. I should have the basic machinery and cue shop copleted by 1st Nov..
 
If you don't have a way to support the back end & hold it PERFECTLY level, it will whip around violently & someone could get hurt. You will have to use a dial indicator to get the cue perfertly centered in the chuck, before you do any drilling or facing. E-mail me if you have any questions or if I can be of any help...JER
 
ftgokie said:
Here is a pic of my shop....My dad is giving me an old Birmingham lathe this weekend..we have to get it out of his shop to make room for his new one


Nice shop.:yikes:
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
Nice shop.:yikes:

Thanks Cocobolocowboy...

I just came across a deal tonight from a guy that makes ink pens out of exotic wood...dont know if I got shafted or not, but I feel I did good...I got a whole bunch of exotic wood ... digging through it right now to see exactly what I got alot of ebony, cocobolo, african paduk, bloodwood, bubinga, bucote, zebrawood, black walnut, shedua, leopardwood, 2 planks of snakewood all pieces are 3x3x36"long except the snakewood planks....they are 3x12x48"

walnut (I got that plank to make a gunstock with)
 
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