Restoring my GC III

ISW said:
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He said the rails weren't that bad but would redo them anyway.
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He also told me to stay off the internet as I would just confuse myself.
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Rails weren't bad? Rails covering is either right or not. Close is for horseshoes.

The benefit of being on sites like AZB is that there are experts that give correct information and links to pics and video.
This is one of the right ways to stretch Simonis at about 7:00. I doubt it's confusing. Needlenose pliers?? :confused:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rr8JAT7VWo

I think I should have left that company link you asked to be deleted.
People should know about those that do less then excellent work.
 
ISW said:
He knew it had been a botched job. He also told me to stay off the internet as I would just confuse myself. Well, I was reading the Simonis manual not just the "internet".
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The whole reason most of the Pros on here post info and pictures is to educate the public and sometimes future customers. Keep reading on this site, and tell them you wont be happy until the job is done to YOUR satisfaction, not what the installer says is an OK job. Its your table, and your money.
 
Dartman said:
You seem unsure about woodworking so you may want to poll people you know locally that may have more experience working with wood for help.
Don't know who "the mechanic" is but adding facings is the hack way to tighten pockets if that is what he plans on doing.
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i agree... i did it on my GC1 and the action of the ball on the cushion point was dismal. i did NOT like the way it played. but don't they make some pocket facings out of a softer rubber material so that the ball doesn't go dead? it seems like that'd be easier than rail extensions as long as you only want to narrow the pocket a little, right?
 
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sausage said:
i agree... i did it on my GC1 and the action of the ball on the cushion point was dismal. i did NOT like the way it played. but don't they make some pocket facings out of a softer rubber material so that the ball doesn't go dead? it seems like that'd be easier than rail extensions as long as you only want to narrow the pocket a little, right?
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you need 60 durometer neoprene
you can only go to 1/4" maximum

http://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Shee...KZYY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304785630&sr=8-1

cut, paste and sand to fit
 
The "Table Mechs." are coming again today. Let's see if they can do it right this time. They are going to be pissed when I show them the GC III manual that shows how the feet are suppose to be assembled. They did it wrong last time. Complete tear down and reassembly needed. This should be interesting.
 
ISW said:
The "Table Mechs." are coming again today. Let's see if they can do it right this time. They are going to be pissed when I show them the GC III manual that shows how the feet are suppose to be assembled. They did it wrong last time. Complete tear down and reassembly needed. This should be interesting.
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What is wrong with the feet that it needs completely torn down?
 
Club Billiards said:
What is wrong with the feet that it needs completely torn down?
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If you look at the pics with the finished Feet and Legs, the castings are just put in for looks. I did not tighten the casting all the way in then make the nut finger tight. This is what the manual says to do. Basically the bolt could be 4/5 in the foot and 1/5 in the base or vise versa.


If you know a way to do it easier please share :)
 
ISW said:
If you look at the pics with the finished Feet and Legs, the castings are just put in for looks. I did not tighten the casting all the way in then make the nut finger tight. This is what the manual says to do. Basically the bolt could be 4/5 in the foot and 1/5 in the base or vise versa.


If you know a way to do it easier please share :)
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1) Jack under the frame to take the weight off the feet - one foot at a time, or one end at a time, whatever feels safer.
2) Screw the feet into the leg properly then
3) Tighten the hex screw.
4) Relevel the table at the legs and recheck the slate seams for shifting while lifting.
5) Fire those "mechanics"
 
Club Billiards said:
1) Jack under the frame to take the weight off the feet - one foot at a time, or one end at a time, whatever feels safer.
2) Screw the feet into the leg properly then
3) Tighten the hex screw.
4) Relevel the table at the legs and recheck the slate seams for shifting while lifting.
5) Fire those "mechanics"
Click to expand...

great advice!
 
Carpet

I agree about the carpet.
I was at a friends house a few weeks ago. He has a table in a garage also. His balls are a mess. Chips and scratches from falling on the concrete floor. I know most people don't knock balls off the table, but it will happen eventually.

You would hate to have a great looking table with a $200 set of balls with chips and scratches on them. I assume you have purchased a set of aramith balls to go with the great table set up. If you haven't, you should.

Good luck.
 
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