Retaper question
- Thread starter atthecat
- Start date
Monte,
If you like the way the shaft plays but it's just too thick, I would have the original cuemaker cut it down maintaining the original taper. This should not change how the shaft plays (deflection and all), just make it thinner to your liking. If you like the taper of another cuemaker that's local, than have them cut it down for you using their taper.
I have found that unless you're only reducing the size by a little, like .1-.2mm, the cuemaker would prefer to use their taper bar so it will come out even and so forth. If it is a minor taper change they can usually do a pretty good job sanding it down by hand to keep the original taper if it's a different taper than they use or are set up for.
That's all I got, but this comes from years of experience and shaft reductions since I like 12.5-12.6mm shafts.
Dave
Sorta
I had a 13mm 15" pro-taper shaft cut down to a 11mm snooker shaft.
It came out good. I don't know how old the shaftwood was, but I had it (13mm)about 2 years before having it turned down for snooker.
If I remember correctly, the cue builder wanted a couple of months to let the shaft stabilize between cuts. It's been a couple of years-I don't recall exactly how long it took.
I rate the transformation as a success.
Now, I play snooker bad with a snooker shaft, instead of the 13mm shaft.
Take care.
3railkick
(likely, a cuebuilder would have a more informed opinion)
I had a 13mm 15" pro-taper shaft cut down to a 11mm snooker shaft.
It came out good. I don't know how old the shaftwood was, but I had it (13mm)about 2 years before having it turned down for snooker.
If I remember correctly, the cue builder wanted a couple of months to let the shaft stabilize between cuts. It's been a couple of years-I don't recall exactly how long it took.
I rate the transformation as a success.
Now, I play snooker bad with a snooker shaft, instead of the 13mm shaft.
Take care.
3railkick
(likely, a cuebuilder would have a more informed opinion)
Monte, It depends on how many sizes you wish to come down and who does the work. The shaft must be straight or really close to start with. Sanding is only acceptable for about a 1/4mm change in size--like 13mm to 12-3/4mm. Why? Face grain sands away faster than side grain. Too much sanding on a shaft can produce an oval shape. If the size change is more than 1/4mm, then yes, cuts should be taken over a period of time that is dependent on how drastic the change is. Most cuemakers are set up to do a very limited number of tapers.
About 7 years ago I had a pair of lakewood shafts ruined by the original cuemaker who took the shafts down 1/4 size by sanding them. He sanded an "hourglass" low spot into both shafts about 5-6 inches from the ferrule. Might not affected play a great deal but it bothered me...so I paid someone else to make a new set of shafts...and then sold the cue!
Martin
About 7 years ago I had a pair of lakewood shafts ruined by the original cuemaker who took the shafts down 1/4 size by sanding them. He sanded an "hourglass" low spot into both shafts about 5-6 inches from the ferrule. Might not affected play a great deal but it bothered me...so I paid someone else to make a new set of shafts...and then sold the cue!
Martin
Shaft retapering is a common practice done at most friendly neighborhood cue repair facilitys. Take it in, tell them what tip size you want and the kind of taper you like and your off to the races. If you are not sure about what you want, they will be glad to help. If you don't know where any FNCRF's are, go to your local poolroom and ask around. 
Oh yeah. Tell them Tramp sent you, and for heavens sake learn to play One Pocket. You'll thank me later.
Oh yeah. Tell them Tramp sent you, and for heavens sake learn to play One Pocket. You'll thank me later.
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Don't do it. Chances are whoever does it will put it on a lathe. That shaft has to be dead on straight otherwise any slightest wobble or any slight pause in the sanding will screw up the retaper.
Do it yourself. Get some sandpaper and sand your shaft in several different methods to alleviate oversanding in any one particular direction. Do things like continually turning the shaft, and use short as well as long sanding strokes. Keep the pressure even. Sand through the ferrule, NOT up to the ferrule.
Do it yourself. Get some sandpaper and sand your shaft in several different methods to alleviate oversanding in any one particular direction. Do things like continually turning the shaft, and use short as well as long sanding strokes. Keep the pressure even. Sand through the ferrule, NOT up to the ferrule.