Rug under existing table....
- Thread starter DrJ
- Start date
the table lifts you see are for bar tables. You need to take the table apart, get the slates off the table. place the frame centered on your rug, then move the rug to center in the the room, then reassemble. I specialize in home tables and this is the way to go.
I've moved tables before with furniture dollies. This works pretty well for something like this. You can VERY carefully lift one end of the table with a guy on each side and put a 4ft wide furniture dolly under the legs. Then carefuly lift the other end and put a dolly under it. Then you can wheel the table out of the way, put the rug down, wheel the table back and center and relevel it at the legs. I've used this technique several times for customers replacing carpet or installing new flooring or even in flooded basements. I have yet to have a slate seam shift on me. Unfortunately if the seams do shift, you'll have to have the table taken apart to adjust them.
However, I can't tell from your post if the table is already assembled? If not, I DEFINITLY recommend getting the rug put in BEFORE you install the table. Makes things much much easier. Good luck, whichever way you chose.
As far as the dimensions, you'll be pretty close. You may occasionally bump the wall on the ends if your cueball is close to the rail. On the sides, most of your shots will be at an angle, which will help. You'll only have a problem if your cueball is close to the rail and you're shooting almost straight across the table.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!
However, I can't tell from your post if the table is already assembled? If not, I DEFINITLY recommend getting the rug put in BEFORE you install the table. Makes things much much easier. Good luck, whichever way you chose.
As far as the dimensions, you'll be pretty close. You may occasionally bump the wall on the ends if your cueball is close to the rail. On the sides, most of your shots will be at an angle, which will help. You'll only have a problem if your cueball is close to the rail and you're shooting almost straight across the table.
Good luck and Merry Christmas!
DrJ said:
Half room width - ( half table width + cue length ) = stroke room across width
84" - ( 25" + 58" ) = 1"
You will be basking in a luxurious 1 inch of room to stroke across the width of the room.
Half room length - ( half table length + cue length ) = stroke room across length
108" - ( 50" + 58" ) = 0" of room to stroke
If you want to stroke up to about 5 inches for all shots, you'll have to jack the butt of your normal length cue up a minimum of:
58^2 + x^2 = (58+5)^2
3362 + x^2 = 3969
x^2 = 607
x = almost 25" above the vertical
This does not sound fun to me unless you want to BRING OUT THE GIMP (stick that is). Yes, I was bored.
Or in real world measurements LOL (no offense, Franky, just trying to put it a simpler way)... the width of your playing surface (inside tips of rails...where the ball can roll) on a 9' table is 50 inches. Your 14' wide room is 168 inches.
168-50=118" to spare. 59" on each side if the table is centered and assuming your walls are square. (Big assumption in most houses)
The length of your playing surface is 100". 18' room, 216".
216-100=116" or 58".
Again, if your cueball is frozen to the rail and you're shooting straight away from the rail, you'll only have 1" of stroke on the sides and you'll be bumping the wall on the ends with a 58" cue. A 52" cue will make the entire table playable no matter where the cueball lands. Not the most desirable, but most players don't hold the cue at the very end anyway, so it shouldn't choke you up too much.
Again, I think you'll only have a problem when your cueball is very close to the rails and you have to shoot a ball straight across the table from you. Angles will help. Good luck. Hope between my calculations and Franky's one of them makes sense to you. Marry Christmas!
168-50=118" to spare. 59" on each side if the table is centered and assuming your walls are square. (Big assumption in most houses)
The length of your playing surface is 100". 18' room, 216".
216-100=116" or 58".
Again, if your cueball is frozen to the rail and you're shooting straight away from the rail, you'll only have 1" of stroke on the sides and you'll be bumping the wall on the ends with a 58" cue. A 52" cue will make the entire table playable no matter where the cueball lands. Not the most desirable, but most players don't hold the cue at the very end anyway, so it shouldn't choke you up too much.
Again, I think you'll only have a problem when your cueball is very close to the rails and you have to shoot a ball straight across the table from you. Angles will help. Good luck. Hope between my calculations and Franky's one of them makes sense to you. Marry Christmas!
I'm a tall player 6'-3" and I play with a 59" cue and hold the cue at the very end on many shots.
I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".
I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.
Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.
I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".
Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.
I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".
I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.
Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.
I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".
Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.
I think you will be much more comfortable with an 8 foot table. The easiet way to check is to put a 4x8 sheet of plywood on a pair of sawhorses. It will be a little low but it will give you an idea about how much room you have.
The plywood idea is not mine, I saw it in another thread but am to lazy to search to give credit to the origonator.
Hope this helps.
Andy
The plywood idea is not mine, I saw it in another thread but am to lazy to search to give credit to the origonator.
Hope this helps.
Andy
DrJ said:
Personally, I think your fine with a 9-foot. You might have a tight shot when your up against the rails and shooting directly into the table. consider this, how often will you have this shot, 1 out of 200-300 shots. depending on your level of play and if your playing for money this may or may not be okay with you. An 8-footer would be more comfortable but if you really want a 9-foot I think your okay.
I have a 9' in a room 14'7" x 19'3" catch is I play with a 60" cue as long as the cue ball isnt on the rail it doesnt really come into play with the walls. Go with what you want as for table size you wont have room for any furniture thats for sure maybe some super low shelves or some higher then normal ones for chips and drinks.
As for your table if its a one piece slate you can pick it up on each side and lay your rug down it's gonna be heavy... 3 piece slate take it apart the right way have a pro like "sd billiards" do it I have gone behind his work a couple of times from when he shipped tables up to Sacramento for me to set up for customers that moved up here..
Best of luck ,
Craig
As for your table if its a one piece slate you can pick it up on each side and lay your rug down it's gonna be heavy... 3 piece slate take it apart the right way have a pro like "sd billiards" do it I have gone behind his work a couple of times from when he shipped tables up to Sacramento for me to set up for customers that moved up here..
Best of luck ,
Craig
iusedtoberich said:
Good advice. I like it.
Yes, what he said...
iusedtoberich raises a very good point -- to consider your stance as part of the miniumum space around the table, not just the cue length. This factor is almost never discussed by table salespeople or in the standard website room-size formulae. I like it.
I think you are pushing the limit for a 9-foot table.
RL
iusedtoberich raises a very good point -- to consider your stance as part of the miniumum space around the table, not just the cue length. This factor is almost never discussed by table salespeople or in the standard website room-size formulae. I like it.
I think you are pushing the limit for a 9-foot table.
RL
I'm not a table tech, however; while it is true that the frozen to the rail straight across shot is reasonably infrequent, there are lots and lots of times when the cue ball is still within 1 or 2 inches of the cushion and the shot is nearly perpendicular to the rail. With a 14 foot wide room, you'll be bumping the walls alot more often than you think. Short cue is one solution. Consider these suggestions carefully because we want you to have fun while playing.
Where are you located? I have some commercial Pro 8' Nationals that I could let one go cheap. I'm in Dayton, Ohio 45458. PM me if you'd like some pictures if you're anywhere near me.