Run This (10)

bluepepper said:

CueTable Help

I won't give the order, but I will give about how many diamonds the cue ball moves after each shot: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 0 and break with the 8. Can anyone run these with less than 8 diamonds of cue ball motion? The distance is counted between contacting each object ball and rolling to a stop, so the length of the shot doesn't count against you. I could have made the "3" a 1 or even a 0, but the next shot would have been unreasonably long.
 
Bob Jewett said:
I won't give the order, but I will give about how many diamonds the cue ball moves after each shot: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 0 and break with the 8. Can anyone run these with less than 8 diamonds of cue ball motion? The distance is counted between contacting each object ball and rolling to a stop, so the length of the shot doesn't count against you. I could have made the "3" a 1 or even a 0, but the next shot would have been unreasonably long.


You nailed it Bob, 9, 2, 5, 12 to center of table for the 14 and draw back to center for a stop shot on the 13 in the side. That is the perfect example of minimal cue ball movement. To bad the last 6 balls can't always end up that way.

Bill
 
Marop said:
You nailed it Bob, 9, 2, 5, 12 to center of table for the 14 and draw back to center for a stop shot on the 13 in the side. ...
My order was slightly different from that. I generally don't like balls in the rack area at the end of the rack unless there is clean, easy way to finish them. For example, if the 8 were not my break shot, I could go 8-12-5 with minimum motion. The transition from the 2 to the 5 requires some precision over a fairly long distance and off a cushion. So, I'd shoot 9-stop, 5-float-towards-the-13, and then the 12 to get down for the 2. If I get straight on the 12 or slightly on the wrong side, I'll go forward; if I get more above the 12 (towards the center of the table), I'll stun to the left for the 2 in the top left pocket. The key to my pattern is that a stop on the 9 leaves a shot on the 5 and is not blocked by the 12.
 
Bob Jewett said:
My order was slightly different from that. I generally don't like balls in the rack area at the end of the rack unless there is clean, easy way to finish them. For example, if the 8 were not my break shot, I could go 8-12-5 with minimum motion. The transition from the 2 to the 5 requires some precision over a fairly long distance and off a cushion. So, I'd shoot 9-stop, 5-float-towards-the-13, and then the 12 to get down for the 2. If I get straight on the 12 or slightly on the wrong side, I'll go forward; if I get more above the 12 (towards the center of the table), I'll stun to the left for the 2 in the top left pocket. The key to my pattern is that a stop on the 9 leaves a shot on the 5 and is not blocked by the 12.

With this pattern I feel I have a few options with the 5 and the 12 to get to the 14.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@3BCKW4ECiR4...PrD@4BdOn3Ecxu4HNyQ3IcYr3LcIs1MeWB2NcYr1PPrD@
 
Marop said:
9, 2, 5, 12 to center of table for the 14 and draw back to center for a stop shot on the 13 in the side. That is the perfect example of minimal cue ball movement. To bad the last 6 balls can't always end up that way.

Bill


That's the way I saw it, too. And like Bill said, if you came too high to get the 5, the 12,5 would be there for you and the 14 would not be too difficult to get on.
 
I see the simplicity of your runs. Probably a lot easier. When I did my run I was thinking that getting to the 14 was going to be tough, so I wanted to get to it early and accept the beneath the rack break shot. So this is what I did. 8,14,13,9,12,2,5

CueTable Help

 
bluepepper said:
I see the simplicity of your runs. Probably a lot easier. When I did my run I was thinking that getting to the 14 was going to be tough, so I wanted to get to it early and accept the beneath the rack break shot. So this is what I did. 8,14,13,9,12,2,5

CueTable Help


The biggest difference is that you had to go to the cushion 4 times and control the speed of the cueball and that includes the last two shots before the breakball. I only went to the cushion once and had a stop shot on the key ball. In my opinion you have to keep the last two balls as simple as possible. John keeps beating that into my head and I believe that is Blackjacks prefered way also. John usually picks out the last 3 balls right after the breakshot and 90 percent of the time it works out, I just sit and watch in amazment.
 
Marop said:
The biggest difference is that you had to go to the cushion 4 times and control the speed of the cueball and that includes the last two shots before the breakball. I only went to the cushion once and had a stop shot on the key ball. In my opinion you have to keep the last two balls as simple as possible. John keeps beating that into my head and I believe that is Blackjacks prefered way also. John usually picks out the last 3 balls right after the breakshot and 90 percent of the time it works out, I just sit and watch in amazment.

I never considered going to a cushion a negative, since it allows you to manipulate the cueball path off of an object ball. But it does mean a lot more travel time. I do see a lot of pros using the cushions to help with speed control as well, especially off of balls made in the side pockets.
I've been looking at the cushions as a way of making sure I'm not travelling across angles when approaching shots. Sort of a security thing.
Maybe to compare, I'll try floating more balls when I play to see if less travel outweighs coming into angles off of cushions. I think it also has to do with how well a person controls his cueball. I may need work on this.

This particular sequence is a little different, the 3 cushions off of the foot end balls are less about approaching shot angles than they are about making sure I'm on the proper side of the shots to get to the next position, so I probably chose the wrong balls from the start.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Bob, I made a visual of your run. It took a while for me to visualize your description, so I figured I would help others to see it more quickly. I've gotten pretty fast with the cuetable, so if a run warrants it, I don't mind creating the sequence. If it needs editing let me know.
Here it is:

CueTable Help

 
Bob- thanks for your comments on this rack. At first I was laughing that this rack is too obvious: 9,2,5,12,14,13 seemed like the only good way to do it.

But then when I read your comments (and looked at bluepepper's cuetable description) it became clear that I would have a higher percentage chance to run the rack 9,5,12,2,14,13! Thanks for opening my eyes to that one, and I'll be on the lookout for stuff like this...

nice!
 
bluepepper said:
Bob, I made a visual of your run. It took a while for me to visualize your description, so I figured I would help others to see it more quickly. I've gotten pretty fast with the cuetable, so if a run warrants it, I don't mind creating the sequence. If it needs editing let me know.
Here it is:

CueTable Help

Some small changes. By my measurement, you can play a stop shot on the nine and still see the 5. Over that distance, I would not fear backing up by accident. With a straighter shot on the 5, it's easier for me to control the cue ball going sideways for the 12. My preference would be to get straight on the 12 and then follow for the 2. If I get a little above, I'd still play follow; a lot above and I'd draw/stun the cue ball to the left from the 12. If I end a little below the 12, I can go the rail with some left. I might be tempted to leave the cue ball on the foot cushion for the 2, so I can go to the 14 without a rail, but leaving a half-ball shot to come off the cushion is the surer way to go.

As for using the rails, yes they can let you maneuver the cue ball by using side spin, but cushions hide surprises. Cranfield -- who played pretty sporty himself -- said that the greatest display of 14.1 skill he had ever seen was a just a 60-ball run by Greenleaf, but in that run the cue ball hit the cushion only twice. I like to try to run nine ball racks without going to any cushion. It's good practice for getting exactly the right angle on the next ball -- you can't be lazy or careless.
 
bluepepper said:
Just to be thorough here's another possible way: ...
I think that by the 3:1 draw angle rule, the first shot you show is impossible. Try the shot and see if you can hold the angle on the 13 from the 14.
 
Bob Jewett said:
I think that by the 3:1 draw angle rule, the first shot you show is impossible. Try the shot and see if you can hold the angle on the 13 from the 14.

Bob, I'm not familiar with the 3:1 draw angle rule. The particular shot looks holdable with some right english, but you may be right. One thing that would be good as a sticky thread here would be cuetable displays of what is actually possible with the cueball. The cueball performs miracles in some of our runs on the cuetable.
Jeff
 
Bob Jewett said:
Some small changes. By my measurement, you can play a stop shot on the nine and still see the 5. Over that distance, I would not fear backing up by accident. With a straighter shot on the 5, it's easier for me to control the cue ball going sideways for the 12. My preference would be to get straight on the 12 and then follow for the 2. If I get a little above, I'd still play follow; a lot above and I'd draw/stun the cue ball to the left from the 12. If I end a little below the 12, I can go the rail with some left. I might be tempted to leave the cue ball on the foot cushion for the 2, so I can go to the 14 without a rail, but leaving a half-ball shot to come off the cushion is the surer way to go.

As for using the rails, yes they can let you maneuver the cue ball by using side spin, but cushions hide surprises. Cranfield -- who played pretty sporty himself -- said that the greatest display of 14.1 skill he had ever seen was a just a 60-ball run by Greenleaf, but in that run the cue ball hit the cushion only twice. I like to try to run nine ball racks without going to any cushion. It's good practice for getting exactly the right angle on the next ball -- you can't be lazy or careless.

Edited:

CueTable Help

 
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