Sand papering brand new shafts ?!

[TATE]

Chris will ALWAYS steer you straight. Period.

Thanks Jim, I can use all the support I can get. Hope all is well with you and your grandchildren and your Southwest's.

Most cue repairs, even tip replacement, I send out, but normal maintainence I do myself - especially since I get a lot of very old, very used cues.

Chris

 

[JimS]

Thanks Jim, I can use all the support I can get. Hope all is well with you and your grandchildren and your Southwest's.

Most cue repairs, even tip replacement, I send out, but normal maintainence I do myself - especially since I get a lot of very old, very used cues.

Chris

I was doing my own tips but I screwed up a Z2 and that's the end of that. Ryan at Muellers gets my business from now on. I'l still take care of my shafts... for the most part. There shouldn't be any need for major shaft work.

 

[Maniac]

Not meant to be rude and hope everything is square.
Terry.

We're all square, bro'!!! I had put a smiley in my first post but was in a hurry writing my second post and didn't insert any. I wasn't all that uptight about your and Kevin's posts. Sorry if I came off that way!!!

It's all good on this end :thumbup:!!!

Maniac

 

[Rod]

Not to be argumentative here, but if a DIY'er has been doing it RIGHT and doing it a LONG TIME, the only thing that separates him/her from the professional is that we are not getting paid to do it. For the most part, weren't the "professionals" at one point in time a DIY'er?

Case in point: My dad, in his prime, could fix/work on a firearm as well as any qualified gunsmith. He did it as a hobby. He was not only good at it, he was DAMN GOOD at it. I 've seen him make parts (firing pins, extractors, etc.) from scrap metal using only a grinder, files, and sandpaper/honing stones. I've seen the days when he cut walnut from trees on his East Texas property, form blanks, let them dry for a few years, then masterfully cut/shape/inlet the wood into beautiful rifle stocks. Made quite a few for me. Saved me LOTS of money on gun repair too. I never had to take my guns in to a "professional" to have them worked on. He never made one single dime for all his wonderful work. He was a DIY'er whose work was as good as many of the so-called "professionals" in that field!

Now Kevin, cue repairmen are like "guitar players in Texas". They're a-dime-a-dozen. Don't sit so tall in your "high-horse" to think that a DIY'er cannot be up to the task. Inlaying, joint installing, etc. needs a true expert, but tip installation and shaft polishing are really simple procedures that most anyone can accomplish without paying a "professional" to do them.

DIY's have knowledge too!!!

Maniac

I think sandpaper and cue shafts should be 20 miles apart. As to the do it yourself, if your capable I agree. I do mine and have for over 40 years. My technique has change slightly because of better materials but they come out perfect.

In reality of course we need abrasive but if its not super fine it won't touch my shaft. I read the thread so I know where everyone is coming from. No problem but I quit having mine done by a repair shop long ago because I hate to see wood dust flying. My shafts are only slightly smaller after many years. Had I chose to let some repair guys do them they would be like pencils.

Rod

 

[KJ Cues]

Actually I used powder with the cue but at one moment the shaft got oily because that powder is attracting dirt and I had to apply powder every 20 minutes. Then I decided not to use powder and cleaned my shaft with Cuetec high tec spray and then burnished it with 9 micron aluminium oxide sand paper.

You may want to carry a towel so that you can wipe the shaft clean during and after play, before you tuck your shaft away in the case.
This will help to slow the 'bluing' that the shaft eventually gets by removing the chalk before it settles into the pores of the wood.

The use of powder is a personal choice and may not be for everyone.
I prefer a very light coating of Carnuba wax instead of powder.
But still, you should wipe the shaft clean before you put it in the case and during play as you need it.

Leave the sealer on the shaft and just apply the wax to the sealed surface.
Mezz is a very nice cue and they do a good job at the factory of making the shaft smooth. The small amount of wax will help to maintain that 'silky-smooth' feeling for a very long time. Hope this helps.