Scuffing a phenolic tip?

a9ballbr8k

a9ballbr8k

Don't anger my stakehorse
Silver Member
Just got a new jump/break and the way the tip looks now it might not hold much chalk. How do I scuff it? Can I use the ulti-mate tip tool? use the tapper part? Please help I don't wanna ruin it.
 
If its just regular phenolic then scuffing won't help much. If its a canvas based phenolic then you can scuff it and the canvas will fuzz up and help hold chalk. Either way...its best to have some grooves machined into the crown...that will definately hold chalk. Like in the photo below...
 

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had that JB too and scuffing wont help, tried with a lot of stuf , its just like that... switched to a White Diamond tip and its a lot better than phenolic IMO
 
Actually I took some 80 grit sandpaper to mine and scuffed it in a diagonal downward motion while I rotated the shaft and it helped. Also, you can have a cuemaker cut grooves in the tip and it should help too.

-J
 
I usually just use a tip tapper to put the little divits in the tip. Seems to work for me.
 
a9ballbr8k said:
Just got a new jump/break and the way the tip looks now it might not hold much chalk. How do I scuff it? Can I use the ulti-mate tip tool? use the tapper part? Please help I don't wanna ruin it.
Click to expand...
Try a Tip Pik - the little brass tube with needle points sticking out of it. Just tap the needle points into the tip, no twisting or anything.

pj
chgo
 
sandpaper!!!

I recommend sandpaper...A light go-over with some sandpaper goes a looong way! It actually cuts down on wear on leather tips also!
 
I use a tip tapper also. I'm suprised no one else has mentioned that. Is it bad to use a tip pick?
 
dukeboy1977 said:
I recommend sandpaper...A light go-over with some sandpaper goes a looong way! It actually cuts down on wear on leather tips also!
Click to expand...

Are you serious?
Even lightly sanding any leather tip removes leather, and will shorten tip life. It in NO way "cuts down on wear". Thats not rocket science.;)
 
I would recommend to try some other chalk. I use Master chalk to chalk my breakcue, other chalk don't chalk well on my breakcue. Just try some, and you will notice what chalks better.
 
I've got a Jerico Stinger and I use a bit of fine grit sandpaper to rough it up a bit. Works fine lasts a really long time.

Banger
 
Sanding will work on phenolic, but it has to be done almost nightly. Even with 60-80 grit, the force of a break will compress the grooves at the point of impact, and leave you with a smooth spot. Machining grooves is a better solution, but if you're going that far, why not just swap the tip for a material that holds chalk better? I've done White Diamonds on two break shafts, including a J&J, and they hold chalk great. Haven't tried one of Varney's tips yet, but I've never heard anything but good reviews. Maybe phenolic tips on expensive cues are better, but the low-priced imports like J&J definitely can benefit from a tip upgrade.
 
I wore the grooves away on my phenolic tip about 3 months after I got it,just from using it alot and normal chalking. Once they were gone it lost alot of grip on the ball, a fresh scuffing with 60 grit paper gives it plenty of bite on the ball,more than just the grooves by themselves.
 
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