Is there a good way to seal it and no longer have to play with a glove to keep your skin clean. 
Seal a CF Shaft
- Thread starter Island Drive
- Start date
I’m guessing it depends on the manufacturer and their process. I shoot with a Pechauer Rogue. It never shed any black when new, or since.Is there a good way to seal it and no longer have to play with a glove to keep your skin clean.
Then a sealant, recommendation?
Who is the manufacturer. I have played with several from different companies and never had one leave any residue on my hand.
I use car care products on wood so they gotta be ok on CF. The slickest I've come across so far is Turtle Wax Ice Synthetic. The trick is not shaking it. This leaves the solids which are the tacky part) on the bottom of the bottle. Literally one drop on a folded paper towel will slick the whole shaft for a couple hours before you even notice it wearing. If you want a sealer, there are ceramic sealers but the coating is a hair more tacky. Might not matter to you.
What CF shaft are you using that makes your hand dirty? Did you try thoroughly cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and paper towels?Is there a good way to seal it and no longer have to play with a glove to keep your skin clean.
Not everyone reacts to chemicals the same.
Wear two gloves. Donate the chemicals to the lab.
Unless you want a viral shopping spree for the minor issues in pool.
Then clean the CF with a microfiber, dump it in solution of oils, air pressure wash it with mineral salts, then air dry it with a mist composing of water and nasal inhibitors. Allow it to heat dry in a special tray for the oven.
All these parts can re synthesize into a useful end agent. A properly cleaned shaft, and well lubricated for temporary ideal action. You will have to manage wear and tear based on your usage and errors.
Wear two gloves. Donate the chemicals to the lab.
Unless you want a viral shopping spree for the minor issues in pool.
Then clean the CF with a microfiber, dump it in solution of oils, air pressure wash it with mineral salts, then air dry it with a mist composing of water and nasal inhibitors. Allow it to heat dry in a special tray for the oven.
All these parts can re synthesize into a useful end agent. A properly cleaned shaft, and well lubricated for temporary ideal action. You will have to manage wear and tear based on your usage and errors.
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dendweller
Well-known member
I've seen two different cue makers in the Ask a cuemaker forum asking that same question, trying to come up with a way to seal the shaft so it isn't leaving black lines on rails and cf residue on their customers hands.Is there a good way to seal it and no longer have to play with a glove to keep your skin clean.
You may want to stick with wood for the time being if that bothers you. My 2 cents.
All this makes me wonder, how did the greats of years ago play so well with their with plain maple shafts- no gloves - smoke filled rooms - napped cloth- old fashioned ( if any) HVAC systems? Imagine Mosconi showing up night after night running hundreds for exhibitions on commercial room tables, dark rooms- mostly- rooms jammed with people, probably 70% of them smoking in the room, etc. etc. and still no thought whatsoever of shaft slickness except for maybe a towel, possibly some talc!
In the end, it really is a mental thing- in this modern sports age we often look for every available short cut to the real truth about how to become a better player- whether it is golf, pool, tennis, baseball, etc.
Remember the Hustler pool cue case- no pockets, just a cue and shaft (s). I remember as late as 2005- an old time player- Mt. Vernon Tommy- showing up at the pool room with his envelope style case, no pockets on the case, one shaft- just pulled out the cue and shot better than anyone in the room!
This one is mine- just like the day it was purchased!
In the end, it really is a mental thing- in this modern sports age we often look for every available short cut to the real truth about how to become a better player- whether it is golf, pool, tennis, baseball, etc.
Remember the Hustler pool cue case- no pockets, just a cue and shaft (s). I remember as late as 2005- an old time player- Mt. Vernon Tommy- showing up at the pool room with his envelope style case, no pockets on the case, one shaft- just pulled out the cue and shot better than anyone in the room!
This one is mine- just like the day it was purchased!
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I misread this. I thought this thread was about beating a seal with a CF shaft. I, uh, well....my bad.
skiergd011013
Well-known member
you can clean it with alcohol, and slicken it up with pledge furniture polish. You said you are wearing a glove to keep your hands clean from the shaft? If the shaft is leaving any residue on your hands then you got ripped off and bought a questionable product from an unreputable source. I have never heard of a cf shaft leaving a residue on someones hands.
Are you sure it’s not your hands making the shaft dirty.
What are you sealing it from?Is there a good way to seal it and no longer have to play with a glove to keep your skin clean.
But first of all what brand shaft is this? There's two on the market that's different from the rest in terms of the surface, that's Pechauer and McDermott. Pechauer states you should use pledge or a similar product. McDermott Siege just have a weird coating you will have to live with. All other shafts I know of cleans easily with denatured alcohol, no need for any further polish and certainly no sealer of any sort.
No it's the shaft, did clean it yesterday hot water soap.
Did help a little, but no.
No I don't wear a glove, just thought it might help others.
But the debris left in the glove is still there not good for cloth.
I'll try the alcohol and then some wax or? that I have laying around.
It's a rhino shaft, it works better than my new Kikel maple shafts, period.
Been with my Kikel since 89.
bm
Did help a little, but no.
No I don't wear a glove, just thought it might help others.
But the debris left in the glove is still there not good for cloth.
I'll try the alcohol and then some wax or? that I have laying around.
It's a rhino shaft, it works better than my new Kikel maple shafts, period.
Been with my Kikel since 89.
bm
Can carbon really be sealed, in the way wood is?
I don't think it can.
I don't think it can.
It can be covered over. It's mostly resin right?
My Revo shaft shed a little carbon for the first couple of weeks.
Predator recommends cleaning the shaft with rubbing alcohol > 90%. No water. The idea is to remove any abrasive particles to keep the shaft from becoming polished. Some amount of roughness makes the shaft slip more easily against skin.
(The original Cuetec fiberglass cues were horribly sticky until they learned the surface had to be roughened. The temporary solution was to use sandpaper on them.)
Predator recommends cleaning the shaft with rubbing alcohol > 90%. No water. The idea is to remove any abrasive particles to keep the shaft from becoming polished. Some amount of roughness makes the shaft slip more easily against skin.
(The original Cuetec fiberglass cues were horribly sticky until they learned the surface had to be roughened. The temporary solution was to use sandpaper on them.)
I used pure Silicone then wiped rhino down with a white cloth.
Eventually I had wiped enough and he black was not coming off anymore.
I'll know after an hr or so if I'm done cleaning.
Eventually I had wiped enough and he black was not coming off anymore.
I'll know after an hr or so if I'm done cleaning.
WTF is this, are you serious?
I'm just curious, is something wrong with you brain???? I'm sure that there are others here wondering the same thing.