seeing yellow spots??

Qucare

Qucare

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can anyone tell me what has changed. I have noticed about 90% of the cue balls I come across all have yellow spots on them. I am told it is from hitting the head ball (the one ball) on the break and the yellow transfers off onto most cue balls. I don't remember this years ago. What has changed? Is it the resins being used in the cue balls? It does not wipe off when you try to clean the ball as well. If anyone has any info Id be interested in learning.
Thanks
LEI
 
Qucare said:
Can anyone tell me what has changed. I have noticed about 90% of the cue balls I come across all have yellow spots on them. I am told it is from hitting the head ball (the one ball) on the break and the yellow transfers off onto most cue balls. I don't remember this years ago. What has changed? Is it the resins being used in the cue balls? It does not wipe off when you try to clean the ball as well. If anyone has any info Id be interested in learning.
Thanks
LEI
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What kind of cue balls are you talking about ? Red Circle Championship balls, Bar table balls (weighted), or what?
 
spots

I play on 9 ft tables and most ball sets are aramith super pro. I have seen this problem on red dots blue dots and I just bought a new measel ball and after 1 hour of play it also had the yellow spots on it. I have even asked the house guy to let me look at every tray of balls he had (14 ) and every cue ball had the yellow marks on them.
 
i believe they are burn marks. if you use a grittier type cleaner like the aramith one, they do come off pretty easily.
 
yellow

I did try the cleaner and even tried to use a scotchbrite pad and the cue ball is very clean and shinny however the yellow spots are still on the cue balls. I go into about 4 pool halls in the area and they all use different asst. of cue balls and they also have the yellow spots on them. Most people have told me so far that its from hitting the one ball on the break (the yellow is rubbing off) Hard to believe. If anyone has any expertise in the pool ball industry please pm me.
thanks
 
If its hot enough to burn the cloth and leave white dots, its also hot enough to discolor the cue ball.
 
I believe it could be from phenolic tips.
I notice these marks on cue ball after mis-cueing on the break,
using a phenolic tip.
That is one thing that has changed,they haven't been around that long.
 
I watched something on tv a good while ago and they said that the friction produced on the CB during a break is pretty darn high. I can't remember the exact number, but I do know that it is well above 200F.
 
gunzby said:
I watched something on tv a good while ago and they said that the friction produced on the CB during a break is pretty darn high. I can't remember the exact number, but I do know that it is well above 200F.
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I find this hard to believe. I've never picked up a "hot" cueball after the break and I don't think if it reached 200 degrees F that it would cool off to room temperature before I could pick it up.

Do you have a reference for this claim of 200 degrees F?
 
dr9ball said:
I find this hard to believe. I've never picked up a "hot" cueball after the break and I don't think if it reached 200 degrees F that it would cool off to room temperature before I could pick it up.

Do you have a reference for this claim of 200 degrees F?
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I did a quick search, but only looked at one site. http://www.isetthai.com/

During a really good break shot the cue balls reach an average speed of 25-30 mph. The friction of the cue ball created as it travels across the cloth can reach temperatures of 250 degrees Celsius(482F). When the cue strikes, the ball can reach up to 450 degrees (842F) from the momentary friction. It is the friction, which causes the burn marks on the pool cloth.
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I am not sure just how true this is, but there is an obvious reason why you have never picked up a hot CB. During the break the amount of time from impact of the tip on the CB to impact of the CB on the rack is fractions of a second and certainly not long enough to actually heat up a CB long enough for it to retain that heat. If you take a blow torch and flick it over a piece of steel really quick that steel isn't going to be hot either and the torch is much hotter than 482 degrees F.
 
gunzby said:
I did a quick search, but only looked at one site. http://www.isetthai.com/



I am not sure just how true this is, but there is an obvious reason why you have never picked up a hot CB. During the break the amount of time from impact of the tip on the CB to impact of the CB on the rack is fractions of a second and certainly not long enough to actually heat up a CB long enough for it to retain that heat. If you take a blow torch and flick it over a piece of steel really quick that steel isn't going to be hot either and the torch is much hotter than 482 degrees F.
Click to expand...

yes but the temperature of the steel doesn't get equal to the temp of the torch. I'd have to see how they measured the temperature on the surface of the cueball to believe it. In the case of the torch you mentioned, the torch provides that temperatue for the cueball it is the friction on the cloth... I will read the article you provided.

Maybe Bob Jewett or DrDave can comment on this?
 
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