Selling a table Question

[RBLilly]

Hey everyone I have a question in here about selling my table! I know, I know everyone will tell me don't sell it! LOL

The question is this, I have a Proline solid oak table with deep shelves, and trust me when I say this thing plays tough! You don't even need to shim the pockets, and most of my buddies love this table because it has improved their games dramatically. It has 1" three piece slate, and it is a beautiful table.

Due to not being able to put it up in my house right now I was thinking of selling it, and then in a couple years getting a 9' Diamond when I actually close in my garage to make a den.

What is anyone's thoughts on selling this? How much could I get for it? I have the original receipts for this table, and I bought it in 2006. How much do most people think they would actually get for a table that is nice, and in excellent shape?

 

[Jim Vondrell]

What model? They sell tables from 2k to 6k or more.

Depending on age and condition (wood, cushions, cloth) all things normal i usually advice people that a 3rd of what was spent new is fair for both parties with the buyer responsible for moving and possibly recovering expense.

 

[realkingcobra]

Hey everyone I have a question in here about selling my table! I know, I know everyone will tell me don't sell it! LOL

The question is this, I have a Proline solid oak table with deep shelves, and trust me when I say this thing plays tough! You don't even need to shim the pockets, and most of my buddies love this table because it has improved their games dramatically. It has 1" three piece slate, and it is a beautiful table.

Due to not being able to put it up in my house right now I was thinking of selling it, and then in a couple years getting a 9' Diamond when I actually close in my garage to make a den.

What is anyone's thoughts on selling this? How much could I get for it? I have the original receipts for this table, and I bought it in 2006. How much do most people think they would actually get for a table that is nice, and in excellent shape?

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Billiard Table Rails


The rail construction is the “heartbeat” of a pool table. The rail is made of three main sections; the rubber, the rail liner, and the rail cap. All three parts work together. This is an area where ProLine's craftmanship stands out. Our rails are truly the best in the world. Be sure that your investment is protected with ProLine Speed Cushions and rails.Billiard Table Rubber

Rubber is the most critical aspect of the rail system. In order for a pool table to be tournament approved, the Billiard Congress of America requires that “Rubber cushions should be triangular in shape and molded with conventional K-66 profile with a base height of 1 3/16” and a nose height of 1”, with control fabric molded to the top and base area of the cushion.”

ProLine SPEED CUSHIONS are K-66 style cushions as required and approved by the BCA for tournament play. They are time tested for correct speed and accuracy.

ProLine pool tables have Live Gum Rubber Cushions. ProLine SPEED CUSHIONS maintain the highest percentage of live gum rubber for a lifetime of consistent play.

Control fabric is molded into the top of the rubber with approx. 3/16” of nose cushion exposed. This allows the ball to rebound with the same accurate and uniform speed, no matter where the ball strikes the cushion.

Live air space, assists the cushion in its ability to control the speed and accuracy of the ball. It also allows the cushion to breath from the front to back, maintaining rubber consistency.

All ProLine models meet or exceed BCA standards.

Pool Table Rail Liner

The rail liner or “sub rail” is the part of the rail that you cannot see once your table is assembled. It is what the rubber is actually attachesd to and it is the part of the rail that comes in contact with the slate and allows the rails to be fastened to the slate. The mechanism used to fasten the rails to the slate is critical. The tighter the rails are fastened to the slate, the better the table will play. ProLine Billiard Tables use solid wood rail liners for the most accurate rebound available.

A 3/8” T-nut bolting system allows for the maximum tightness between the rail and the slate. This eliminates the voids behind the rubber which occur with the commonly used “floating nut plate” and give a full 5/8" of thread for bolting to.T-Nuts are permanently embedded into rails giving perfect alignment, and cannot come loose from overtightening. T-nuts have over twice as much thread as nut-plates for securing the bolts.

This is straight from ProLine's web-site. Problem with this line of tables is that first of all...where are they getting their information from about the BCA endorsing K66 cushions...when they themselves don't supply pool tables to ANY pool tournaments what-so-ever.

Then, a 1" nose height??????? And a T-nut rail bolt system...is the worst way in the world of bolting down the rails. Cross thread a rail bolt...spin a T-nut...and you're in trouble....because you can't replace the T-nut without tearing apart the sub-rail and rail cap just to get at the T-nut...which is made out of stamped sheet metal with 3 to 4 prongs sticking out along the edges to embed themselves into the sub-rail to try and create an anchor to stop the T-nut from spinning. I just have to admire their advertising department

Sell your table and get a Diamond when you can...you'll be much happier down the road

"attachesd" and "craftmanship" are spelled attached and craftsmanship, and as far as I'm concerned...DO represent their company

Glen

 

[jfred0826]

Selling a pool table

Hi, RBLilly,

I say sell that table asap. Storing it for a number of years is usually a bad idea. Unless you have a near perfect storage site, and have the table disasembled and packaged properly, it will be subject to some serious deterioration. If you have to rent a place to store it, all the rent just becomes an expense that eats away at the equity you have in the table.

I browse the Texas Craigslist every day for pool tables. I just enjoy looking at the used tables and seeing what prople are asking for them. I can tell you that a whole bunch of good tables can be had there for $750.00 and less. I've seen lots of them for $300.00 to $500.00.

If your friends love your table, then offer it to them. You might make your best deal there.

If you have a premium set of balls, like Centennials or high dollar Aramiths, you might want to keep them, and either replace them with a set of $75.00 balls, or just sell the table without balls.

In the end, your selling price will be whatever a buyer is willing to give. But, in Texas, I'd venture to say that $750.00 is tops. Most buyers don't really care what you paid for it originally, their bottom line is what it costs them to get it from you.

Again, I will say, that the quicker you get out from under it, the better off you will be in the long run. I hope I didn't offend you with the price evaluation and all........but, that's just the way I see it.

Good luck to you.

jfe

 

[mystery shooter]

I agree with Cobra, you will be much happier with a Diamond!:thumbup:

 

[RBLilly]

Diamond

Well I have shot on GC and Diamond, and just my preferance I perfer Diamond. As far as advise from everyone I didn't really need to be sold on Diamond! LOL Just messing with you all I like Diamond and I am sold on them.

As far as someone saying what they sell for this pool table is solid Oak, so yes it cost quite a bit when I got it. I paid about $4000 for this table when I got it in 2006.

The table has been set up in two different homes by fairly good table mechanics. No they are not Real King Cobra by any means, but they were the best in this area! LOL

I agree Real King this isn't the best way a table can be built or put together, but for what the table is it plays very well, and I think it has two things going good for it. It is very heavy which helps it play consistent, and like I said the shelves are deep on the pocket which makes this table tough.

About 2 years after I got the table I really got more into pool and realized with a little more research I could have spent a little more and got a Diamond.

As far as the storing it I had it in a climate control storage with the bed still assembled and the slates sitting on top like they are normally on it when it is put together. Also the rails and pockets were just sitting on top of it with the cover over all of it. It was stored that way for about the last year.

Now that I am in the house I have it sitting in the garage stored the same way, and I have put old English on the oak word to help preserve it. It is in the back corner of my garage right now.

I have about three sets of balls and only one is a high dollar set. I also have all the wall racks and house cues to go with it.

So if I do go to sell it what you think the starting price should be? LOL

 

[Cuebuddy]

About four years ago I was in the same boat you are in now, I had a Olhausen nine footer that was like new. It was solid Oak (no veneers) and one inch slate, lions claw feet and a matching rack with four new Dufferin house cues. I sold it for $1700 dollars to a friend who always wanted it.

I new I had gotten way to much for a used table so I dis-assembled it and then drove it to my buddies house and re-assembled it to make it a little more fair of a deal.

I also threw in a good set of balls and lesson.

The reason I felt I got to much money for the table was I discovered Craigslist and saw what the going rate for used tables. Go to Craigslist in your area and check it out. Most people start out asking way to much for their tables and must take far less for them if they want to unload them.

Good luck with the sale and you will love the Diamond.