Setting up a lathe

Glenn Deneweth

Glenn Deneweth

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I bought a lathe about a month ago, and now I am trying to figure out how I go about adding a router to it in combination with taper bars. I know porper sells them, where else can I go? It is made in China, it was made in 1997 and looks "Exactly" like the one Grizzly sells. Except it's very dirty. Any idea what the best way is to clean it? I also need a tool post, any good recommendations of where I can find a good one at a good price?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G4003

Thanks, this forum is great!

Glenn
 
I don't know about other states, but I've found It in the local w-mart. Hardware or paint stores may have it also, Unless something has happened recently, and no one Is selling It anymore? Pretty sure I purchased some of mine just a few months back though, so it was'nt that long ago.
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I bought a lathe about a month ago, and now I am trying to figure out how I go about adding a router to it in combination with taper bars. I know porper sells them, where else can I go? It is made in China, it was made in 1997 and looks "Exactly" like the one Grizzly sells. Except it's very dirty. Any idea what the best way is to clean it? I also need a tool post, any good recommendations of where I can find a good one at a good price?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G4003

Thanks, this forum is great!

Glenn
Click to expand...

Get a quick change tool post. it is the best investment for your lathe you will buy. Enco has some at a pretty good price.
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I bought a lathe about a month ago, and now I am trying to figure out how I go about adding a router to it in combination with taper bars. I know porper sells them, where else can I go? It is made in China, it was made in 1997 and looks "Exactly" like the one Grizzly sells. Except it's very dirty. Any idea what the best way is to clean it? I also need a tool post, any good recommendations of where I can find a good one at a good price?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G4003

Thanks, this forum is great!

Glenn
Click to expand...

What all came with the lathe, chucks, tools etc. That is often the big bargin when buying a used lathe.
 
macguy said:
What all came with the lathe, chucks, tools etc. That is often the big bargin when buying a used lathe.
Click to expand...

I never got that much stuff, I got a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, a steady rest, follower rest. I came with a stand with a homemade casters that make it easy to roll around the garage. That's about it. I bought a Drill Chuck off of ebay. I still need a tool post, and a method of mounting a router to it.

Glenn
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I never got that much stuff, I got a 3 and 4 jaw chuck, a steady rest, follower rest. I came with a stand with a homemade casters that make it easy to roll around the garage. That's about it. I bought a Drill Chuck off of ebay. I still need a tool post, and a method of mounting a router to it.

Glenn
Click to expand...
shoppic4.jpg

Router on an angle plate and hoseclamped.
Or you could use one of the Aloris type tool holder, weld a angle plate on it and mount a router to it.
 
JoeyInCali said:
shoppic4.jpg

Router on an angle plate and hoseclamped.
Or you could use one of the Aloris type tool holder, weld a angle plate on it and mount a router to it.
Click to expand...

As far as I'm concerned a quick change tool post is the biggest time saver that I've added to my lathes. It takes about 15 sec. to go from a single point cutter to a router or a boring bar or what ever else I need. I have about two dozen different tools on tool holders all set up to just toss in place. After resharpening a tool it is a breeze to get it to the proper height. Best money I've ever spent on tooling. I've got 3 routers with different cutters, 3 boring bars, a gun drill, a cut-off tool, inside and outside threading bits, tooling for both left and right cutting in phonelics, others for wood and others for metal. Even have a dial indicater on one. Aloris brand tool post sets are top of the line and expensive but you can get import copies for a song on e-bay. They aren't as nice as the aloris but the are plenty good enough. I've got both the wedge type and the piston type mounts. They both use the same tool holders but the wedge type probably has a little better repeatability when going back and forth between tooling. Just put in a search for quick change tool post on e-bay and many will pop up.
Dick
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
Would something like this work for my lathe? http://tinyurl.com/d5sym
Click to expand...

Yes, this will work although I use the next size bigger. That ones size is A where as I use the B size which is for a 12 to 15" lathe. The B size is a little more sturdier which helps when mounting a router, keeps the vibration down some. The B size also will take a boring bar up to 1". There's not to much difference in price.
Dick
 
> Another thing that might be helpful is adjusting the gibs and other fasteners,to help eliminate backlash. Someone mentioned cleaning parts with acetone. As far as I know,you can still get it in some places like Wal-Mart and Lowe's,but you might have to sign for it. Some common chemicals like this and denatured alcohol are used by morons to make meth. In an effort to rid Tennessee of this poison by making supplies harder to buy and easier to track who buys them in excessive amounts,some places now and all before long will require a signature,as I found out first hand when buying denatured alcohol at Lowe's a month ago. Tommy D.
 
I sell butt and shaft taper bar and roller bearing for $325. You have to make three L-brackets to bolt it to the back of your lathe and a slotted bar to hold your roller bearing and get a spring to hold tension. Disarm your bottom slide. Set your compound going straight across and you are ready to go.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Would this be feasible. By mounting the router on my lathe, and not adding any taper bars at this present time, I should still be able to machine the butt end of the cue by adjusting the tailstock. I could purchase final cut shafts and still be able to put a cue together?

Glenn
 
setting up a lathe

Glenn Deneweth said:
Would this be feasible. By mounting the router on my lathe, and not adding any taper bars at this present time, I should still be able to machine the butt end of the cue by adjusting the tailstock. I could purchase final cut shafts and still be able to put a cue together?

Glenn
Click to expand...


YES......I did it that way for several years, when I started...JER
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
Would this be feasible. By mounting the router on my lathe, and not adding any taper bars at this present time, I should still be able to machine the butt end of the cue by adjusting the tailstock. I could purchase final cut shafts and still be able to put a cue together?

Glenn
Click to expand...
Yes that is a good way to go. I used to be one of the top providers of Final cut shafts in the states. I have been behind for a long time and not able to keep up with demand. I have now set up a four head machine to cut shaft blanks and hope to be back in full swing in a couple of months.
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
Would this be feasible. By mounting the router on my lathe, and not adding any taper bars at this present time, I should still be able to machine the butt end of the cue by adjusting the tailstock. I could purchase final cut shafts and still be able to put a cue together?

Glenn
Click to expand...

I've got a setup similar to one shown in the link below. It seems that most of the used boring heads come with an R8 shank, but I was able to find one that had a #3 MT.I think that most have an iterchangable shank anyway, so you would be able to adapt it to the size you need. I mounted a live center in it and all that's needed to offset the tail stock is an allen wrench and an indicator. Remove the boring head from the tailstock and you're back to where you started.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/cuecomponents_1868_67580690
 
sliprock said:
I've got a setup similar to one shown in the link below. It seems that most of the used boring heads come with an R8 shank, but I was able to find one that had a #3 MT.I think that most have an iterchangable shank anyway, so you would be able to adapt it to the size you need. I mounted a live center in it and all that's needed to offset the tail stock is an allen wrench and an indicator. Remove the boring head from the tailstock and you're back to where you started.

http://us.st11.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/cuecomponents_1868_67580690
Click to expand...

I hear about offsetting the talestock but I can't figure out how to. This definately makes a lot of sense. I just bought one off of ebay. I think I'm close to a million dollars in cue equipement and I still have produced a single piece of sawdust... lol....
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I hear about offsetting the talestock but I can't figure out how to. This definately makes a lot of sense. I just bought one off of ebay. I think I'm close to a million dollars in cue equipement and I still have produced a single piece of sawdust... lol....
Click to expand...

Those do work good. I've got two of them set-up, one for tapering prongs and one for tapering handles. I don't have to change the settings that way. I also use a spring loaded center, multi toothed driver that I chuck up so that the prong is not bent from being offset. When putting into tail-stock just have to be sure that the top of the boring head is flat or else the settings will be wrong.
Dick
 
Loctite Natural Blue Part #82251

Hello

>For cleaning machinery and any metal tools such as taps and drills Loctite sells a product, Natural Blue part #82251, that is excellent. Does not harm any metal and leaves protective film but can be brutal on plastic. Natural Blue is biodegradable and you must wear protective gloves at high concentrations. Available from any one who sells Loctite products.
>To clean very dirty machinery dilute 50% with water or according to instructions on jug. A little Natural Blue goes a long way. Put drop sheet or garbage bags under machine to protect floor. Use heavy duty disposable paper towels like Bounty or heavier duty and soak them in the Natural Blue. Wipe machine until paper towel is saturated then use another one. Very tidy because almost no water is used. If you use cloth towels it is unlikely that you ever get them clean again.
>Acetone is hard on your skin and liver. Use protective gloves when using. Also acetone strips away all protective films from metal. When finished with acetone spray on a protective coating of light oil or Bostik Top Coat.
 
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