Shaft Care Question

C

CueAndMe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just got my new Schmelke custom cue, and the shaft feels great and smooth and looks pretty. It doesn't seem to have any protective coating on it. So, how do I keep it pure like this, clean and smooth? Wood polish? Scotch Brite?
Thanks
 
This is a CoW or a joke, right?

But if any newcomers are reading..

Leave the Scotch Brite in the kitchen! Burnish with leather or a brown paper bag. Wipe with a slightly damp rag now and then, dont forget to burnish after.

If you really want a sealer on a new shaft use sanding sealer and thin it out.

For a deep cleaning after a couple of months - do a serch. (Magic eraser).
 
Fixer said:
This is a CoW or a joke, right?

But if any newcomers are reading..

Leave the Scotch Brite in the kitchen! Burnish with leather or a brown paper bag. Wipe with a slightly damp rag now and then, dont forget to burnish after.

If you really want a sealer on a new shaft use sanding sealer and thin it out.

For a deep cleaning after a couple of months - do a serch. (Magic eraser).
Click to expand...

I'm laughing because you thought it was a joke, but it's not. I'm serious. I don't know what a CoW is either. Anyway, so no Scotch Brite and no wood polish. Just burnish. I can do that. When you wipe with a damp rag do you dry it at all before burnishing or is that the point--you want it damp to burnish?
As long as it isn't going to warp I guess I won't seal it.
Thanks.
 
I have a Schmelke also and they have (mine anyway) has a sealer on it that is the best I have ever seen on ANY shaft!!!!!. You should not need to seal it. If you have any questions ask Schmelke,( they have a web site) they are very nice people to deal with.
 
Trust me....I know a little something. I'd never suggest putting any water or "damp" rag on your shaftwood. Keep it burnished smooth with a square of leather or brown cardboard. Then I also like to rub my shafts with the product pictured below...then buff with a clean cloth. The more you use the product....the more it seals the pores and before long your shafts will stay clean and glassy smooth. There was just a thread on this subject yesterday I believe....if your search "bowling alley wax" in the main forum.;)
 

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Cad1illac, there might be a sealer on it. It just may not be obvious. I love the feel of the shaft. Smooth as silk. After yours and Fixer's responses I'm not worried about it any longer. I'll just go enjoy the darn thing. Heck, it was only $149 for a custom 62" cue with a special taper and special balancing. What could I have to worry about.

Thanks
 
Varney Cues said:
Trust me....I know a little something. I'd never suggest putting any water or "damp" rag on your shaftwood. Keep it burnished smooth with a square of leather or brown cardboard. Then I also like to rub my shafts with the product pictured below...then buff with a clean cloth. The more you use the product....the more it seals the pores and before long your shafts will stay clean and glassy smooth. There was just a thread on this subject yesterday I believe....if your search "bowling alley wax" in the main forum.;)
Click to expand...

Simultaneous post. Just got it. Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go.
 
I have never been much for waxes, but if mr Varney says so - its probably so.

And water.. well I have never seen any harm in a very slightly damp paper towel. But who am I?

Sure am curious about that Bowling vax, sounds like a sealer slick and all only not.

Sorry if I said you were opening a Can Of Worms here.
 
Varney Cues said:
Trust me....I know a little something. I'd never suggest putting any water or "damp" rag on your shaftwood. Keep it burnished smooth with a square of leather or brown cardboard. Then I also like to rub my shafts with the product pictured below...then buff with a clean cloth. The more you use the product....the more it seals the pores and before long your shafts will stay clean and glassy smooth. There was just a thread on this subject yesterday I believe....if your search "bowling alley wax" in the main forum.;)
Click to expand...


this was posted last week, some guy named Barry told me about Butchers Wax and you'll be set, if you apply it right on a clean shaft then wipe your shaft down with a super damp as in almost no water on the cloth every 30 minutes of play, and repete the Butchers wax every couple weeks or 3, that mixed wit hyour hand oils you'll build up a shiny shaft thats kinda yellow. I have a 30yr old Gus shaft that is yellowed and all the pores in the wood are filled with wax, hand oils and the chalk dosent stick to it, there isnt any blue chalk dust deep into the shaft. I have a few old shafts like that-they are the best feeling, If you let the shafts get that dark dirty look they wont come out with that yellow patina that stays shiny, smooth and hard-its hard to ding them. It take practice-I'm just getting this down after 20 some years of playing.

wish I had pics, i'm gonna try and get them to show everyone what i just did a piss poor job describing.

oh year less is more with wax, use less than you think you need then use 1/4 tht amount, if you have a lathe its easy to put it on and make it warm and I think that it probably goes deeper in the pores of the wood, thus forming a seal to keep the chalk dust off from going deep into the wood. the best shaft I have like that came from Barry Szam and when I go to wipe the chalk dust off with a super damp towel there is very little dust on the shaft, compaired to a shaft that hasnt been waxed. Varney what do you think? I'm gonna call Barry about this one, to get his opinion. Also when I say damp rag I mean like just a few drops of water, just enough to bind with the dust, I have used a towel I rang out(thats about 20X more dampness than you want) and my shaft was fuzzy afterwards all the wood fiber stood up, It was the first time I did that 20+ years ago, never made that mistake.
 
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Fatboy said:
Varney what do you think?
Click to expand...

I just don't agree with putting any water on shafts. It simply raises the grain, which will then need to be lightly sanded smooth then burnished. The deal with the bowling alley wax is that its kind of a 1 step cure all. It will clean the blue chalk dust, seal the pores, and leave the shaft very slick & smooth. I use it on my personal shafts every time after I use them. Of course I have the advantage of a lathe. You can still get the same results by hand. Just rub a generous amount in with a rag until you feel the shaft heat up. Then buff with a clean cloth. The more often you use the product....the slicker your shafts will become. You must though have your shafts burnished slick to start with. Rub them down until warm & shiny with leather or brown cardboard. Then use the wax routine. Everyone who feels my shaft has to ask how I keep it that slick. After waxing multiple times...it really builds up a nice barrier, filling in the pores and helps keep the shaft from developing that blue patina. Also....some players may feel the shafts are too slick....almost feeling clearcoated....if thats the case then just VERY gently wipe the shaft down with 0000 steel wool as a last step. I've been playing with the same shaft for several years now....it looks close to new...hasn't turned blue....and is so slick it feels like glass. You just can't do it once & expect it to stay that way....its a routine....and if done correctly over time then your shafts will feel like you never imagined. Another plus....the wax keeps moisture from sweaty hands, moisture in the air, and wet beer bottles and such from penetrating the wood. Keeping moisture out of the wood is step #1 to keeping your favorite shafts straight as when new.;) Hope this helps some of you take a bit better care of your shafts. I'm often shocked at how bad some customers shafts feel...they just don't know any better. With the cost of premium custom cues....I think this is a small price to pay to keep them in A+ shape.;)
 
You have me convinced, Mr. Varney. I'm going to try and find some today, so I can get that routine going. Thanks again.
 
shaft care

One thing that always seems to be left out of shaft care is washing your hands frequently when playing. The cleaner your hands are, translates into a cleaner shaft. Make sure to chalk away from your shaft. Hold it at an angle and let the loose chalk fall to the floor. Tap it against your opposite hand and let the loose chalk shake off, too. This may sound obvious but it always helps to be reminded. A trip to the restroom to wash also gives you a short relaxation time to collect your ambition and go on with that "killer" instinct that you need to win.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues:cool:
 
Great advise guys. Now where can we pick up a tub of the butchers wax? Is it available at the local hardware store like Home Depot? I see that it's a bowling alley wax, can we get it there? Thanks ahead of time.
 
penoy78 said:
Great advise guys. Now where can we pick up a tub of the butchers wax? Is it available at the local hardware store like Home Depot? I see that it's a bowling alley wax, can we get it there? Thanks ahead of time.
Click to expand...
The Butchers Bowling Alley Wax can be bought at Ace Hardware for $7.49 for a 1-lb can. They will order it for you if they don't have it in stock.
 
Not easy to find this stuff ...

Varney Cues said:
Trust me....I know a little something. I'd never suggest putting any water or "damp" rag on your shaftwood. Keep it burnished smooth with a square of leather or brown cardboard. Then I also like to rub my shafts with the product pictured below...then buff with a clean cloth. The more you use the product....the more it seals the pores and before long your shafts will stay clean and glassy smooth. There was just a thread on this subject yesterday I believe....if your search "bowling alley wax" in the main forum.;)
Click to expand...

I have yet to find this Wax in the greater Sacramento area and the Sellers on eBay want to rob me on the shipping cost, but I suppose that is my only choice ... I may buy (2) cans since shipping is the same ...

Thanks a lot for turning-us-on to this product ...
 
Varney Cues said:
I just don't agree with putting any water on shafts. It simply raises the grain, which will then need to be lightly sanded smooth then burnished. The deal with the bowling alley wax is that its kind of a 1 step cure all. It will clean the blue chalk dust, seal the pores, and leave the shaft very slick & smooth. I use it on my personal shafts every time after I use them. Of course I have the advantage of a lathe. You can still get the same results by hand. Just rub a generous amount in with a rag until you feel the shaft heat up. Then buff with a clean cloth. The more often you use the product....the slicker your shafts will become. You must though have your shafts burnished slick to start with. Rub them down until warm & shiny with leather or brown cardboard. Then use the wax routine. Everyone who feels my shaft has to ask how I keep it that slick. After waxing multiple times...it really builds up a nice barrier, filling in the pores and helps keep the shaft from developing that blue patina. Also....some players may feel the shafts are too slick....almost feeling clearcoated....if thats the case then just VERY gently wipe the shaft down with 0000 steel wool as a last step. I've been playing with the same shaft for several years now....it looks close to new...hasn't turned blue....and is so slick it feels like glass. You just can't do it once & expect it to stay that way....its a routine....and if done correctly over time then your shafts will feel like you never imagined. Another plus....the wax keeps moisture from sweaty hands, moisture in the air, and wet beer bottles and such from penetrating the wood. Keeping moisture out of the wood is step #1 to keeping your favorite shafts straight as when new.;) Hope this helps some of you take a bit better care of your shafts. I'm often shocked at how bad some customers shafts feel...they just don't know any better. With the cost of premium custom cues....I think this is a small price to pay to keep them in A+ shape.;)
Click to expand...


i never put water on a shaft I wipr them down with a towel with a few drops of water on it, less than a teaspoon on a big cloth, I wipe it down wit hthe cloth til its warm and there is zero transfer of water to the wood, its hard to explain but just enough to get the chalk dust off the shaft a 100% dry rag wont get it, I use such a little amount of water the shaft dosent get wet at all
 
Fatboy said:
i never put water on a shaft I wipr them down with a towel with a few drops of water on it, less than a teaspoon on a big cloth, I wipe it down wit hthe cloth til its warm and there is zero transfer of water to the wood, its hard to explain but just enough to get the chalk dust off the shaft a 100% dry rag wont get it, I use such a little amount of water the shaft dosent get wet at all
Click to expand...

The wax will do the same job of pulling the blue off your shaft. After you rub your shaft down with the wax rag....you'll be shocked at how nasty & blue the rag is....keep turning to a clean area & use fresh wax so as not to keep rubbing the blue back into your shaft.;)
 
I got some of the Butcher's Bowling Wax today at my local True Value Hardware store. The first place I tried. Just under 8 bucks.
I started the routine today after I played. I used a white paper towel. Is that not a good idea, Varney? It went on great and came off great.
Thanks again.
 
bluepepper said:
I got some of the Butcher's Bowling Wax today at my local True Value Hardware store. The first place I tried. Just under 8 bucks.
I started the routine today after I played. I used a white paper towel. Is that not a good idea, Varney? It went on great and came off great.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Paper towel is ok I guess. I prefer something that'll hold more wax & allow me to rub a little more aggressively. An old towel cut up into washcloth size squares...old washcloths....work well for applying the wax. I really like an old soft Tshirt for the final buffing after the wax.
For those of you who may want to slick up your shafts fairly well & have no immediate access to the Butchers....fold up a good sized piece of waxpaper...wax side out....and rub your shaft down well until it feels fairly hot. Then buff out with a clean soft rag or old Tshirt. Not nearly as good as the bowling alley wax....but does a pretty fair job in a pinch....especially if your shafts are somewhat clean & well burnished to begin with.;)
 
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