Shaft cleaning questions
- Thread starter jed1894
- Start date
I haven't used the Butcher's wax but I do use the MINWAX, Paste Finishing Wax. It helps to keep the chalk and dirt out of my shaft and also allows for quick, easy and effective cleaning. The wax hardens easily in minutes and buffs up real smooth.
JoeyA
I don't use Butcher's all the time, but I keep a can handy. I got the tip from Fatboy when I noticed a can of Butcher's sitting near a couple of big safes that held a zillion dollars worth of high end custom cues. He said that Barry Szamboti used it and recommended it to him. That was more than enough of a recommendation for me.
I don't use Butcher's all the time, but I keep a can handy. I got the tip from Fatboy when I noticed a can of Butcher's sitting near a couple of big safes that held a zillion dollars worth of high end custom cues. He said that Barry Szamboti used it and recommended it to him. That was more than enough of a recommendation for me.
Barry got the idea from his old man. He probably didnt know anything either...
.Ken
Which I think is what tung oil does, it soaks into the wood not lay on top of it like varnish. BTW, I repeated this process with 4 layers of linseed, and let me tell you, it didn't look like something I could ever take off
Okay, I've been a long time proponent of "nothing but wood on my shaft", but you guys have me thinking. So help me with the application of the linseed oil.
1) Clean and dry shaft.
2) Apply linseed oil to shaft - by hand or on a lathe?
3) Wipe linseed oil off of shaft immediately? Does it absord into the wood that quickly?
4) Let it dry then buff or polish ?
5) Repeat steps 2 thru 4 Three more times to apply Four coats of linseed oil ?
Do I understand correctly? Thanks, in advance.
When I did it, I let the oil sit for a long time(few hours) and wiped it off. It won't soak in like a sponge or something. Maple is real tight. I have to caution you that the shaft turned yellowish in an antique-like manner, I liked the look myself, but you might not. Also I did take off the protective varnish that cuemakers put 3" from and to the joint. I think it looks ugly.
And there are many grades of linseed, and I probably used a cheap grade(from a hardware store). After the whole process was done, I felt the shaft was too sticky in the way that a varnish will do, so it took a year of polishing and rubbing to wear the stickiness a bit. Still, I recommend you contact people who are conversant about the subject(woodworkers not cuemakers). I also know of people who would constantly rub their shaft with their hands because the body excretes natural oils.
here's something http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil
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that the best suggestion ion this thread, I dont use a magic eraser though. I have my crying towel and after I dry my hands with it I will grip it tight and push the shaft through it a couple time, I feel the shaft and its warm so it drys fast-you the towel is wet thats where yu get into trouble, just barely damp. your shafts will get dark blue over time-some faster than others that dosent matter, what matters is getting that patina of hand oil on it. Ans I do use 12,000 grit about 2 times a year very lightly. My shafts after 18 months will be a hair thinner but thats just use not from abrasves, useing a scotch brite pad is a rookie move.
12,000 grit?! What is it, a pillow case?
So, you dont' do anything to the linseed oil after application? You just let it dry and THAT gives you a nice, smooth, hard finish?
