shaft cleaning sponge

loglivn

loglivn

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I bought a shaft cleaning sponge off ebay that is made by Longoni cues. Wow this thing works good. I used it on my worst shaft with a blue stain down to the finished area. It made it look like new without too much effort. A piece of extra fine sandpaper is included to smooth your shaft after you finish. I guess the sponge being wet raises the grain. Works better than a lot of things that I've tried.
 
Varney Cues said:
Magic Eraser is hard to beat...cheap & at every grocery store. ;)
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How about Predator shafts. I heard the glue was water based, won't it damage the glue?
 
Varney Cues said:
Magic Eraser is hard to beat...cheap & at every grocery store. ;)
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My bet is that the Longoni "sponge" is exactly the same thing except a little more expensive.
 
billiardpete said:
How about Predator shafts. I heard the glue was water based, won't it damage the glue?
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I doubt it. The Magic Eraser should not be wet, only damp. No worse than using a damp rag.
 
????????????/

Whats wrong with burnishing your shaft. I try to keep moisture off my shaft. If you sand on your shaft an don't seal it you're asking for problems. I never, I mean never sand on a shaft without sealing it. Open grain wood an sweaty hands don't work.
Pinocchio
 
catscradle said:
I doubt it. The Magic Eraser should not be wet, only damp. No worse than using a damp rag.
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Found this thread looking for info on sealing shafts. By coincidence, I bought a Magic Eraser last night at suggestion of a cuesmith. I don't like using anything that I think might contain bleach, so I only used this on a really bad spot that made the shaft look weird - it worked. I just wet it, squeezed out almost all water, then rubbed the area.

I'm sure it would clean up the rest of the shaft as well as anything, but the label also says not to use on wood :)
 
i use a magic eraser pretty often to clean my cues, it does not harm the wood. well at least not the unfinished part. i think it will harm finished wood, which is why the label says not to use it. i use rubbing alcohol instead of water, it doesn't raise the grain very much and it won't mess with the glue on my predator shaft which is water based.
 
McChen said:
i use a magic eraser pretty often to clean my cues, it does not harm the wood. well at least not the unfinished part. i think it will harm finished wood, which is why the label says not to use it. i use rubbing alcohol instead of water, it doesn't raise the grain very much and it won't mess with the glue on my predator shaft which is water based.
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Try Denatured alcohol... even better!
 
> I use a light citrus-based degreaser called Orange Magic with my Erasers,just 2-3 quick squirts is enough to do the whole shaft if you don't poke around,and the results are downright awesome. I've used it just like that on a shaft with no real dents/dings,and went straight to 600 after drying with a paper towel,the shaft was as clean as new. I know because I re-tipped it right out of the box.

Has everyone else noticed that using the Eraser with just enough pressure for it to start to steam a little eliminates maybe 75% of the sanding needed to get the wood back to a nice finish?

I've seen people on here say they've used them mostly by hand,but I've been using them on my lathe at about 1500 rpm,and getting it good and warm takes out just about anything but a sharp-edged dent,serious depression or a hole. I've also used one by hand and after drying went straight to 1500 and it was right back where I like it before waxing. Tommy D.
 
billiardpete said:
How about Predator shafts. I heard the glue was water based, won't it damage the glue?
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I'd be very careful putting water on my predator shafts. The glue used to hold the segments together is Franklin Tightbond and it's water soluble. You might get away with a damp sponge, but I wouldn't want to get too much water on a predator shaft.
 
I've cleaned my Predator shafts a few times over the past few years with denatured alcohol and a Mr. Clean Magic eraser and I haven't experienced any problems. I hit it with some 1000 grit after the alcohol evaporates to take any residue off the surface. After that, it's a quick rough leather burnish, then SlipStic to finish.
 
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