Shaft cuter

Murray Tucker said:
Very easy to use but I don't sell them. My product liability insurance company would have my nuts nailed to their wall if they knew I made something like that in my machine shop.



Murray, are You running the spindle on a 1 to 1 ratio with the feed motor? Just wondering- Is that all the spindle speed the machine needs? Nice machine BTW.:) Thanks Greg
 
what am i doing wrong

i cut my shafts on a hightower delux lathe using a 6 blade cutter and my shafts come out very smooth.
 
I was told that this one cost $360 even with the table saw and battery. motors run off car battery and has forward, reverse, speed control, and kill switch.
 

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Murray,

Is the adjustable taper bar mounted on the front machined to your shaft taper? If not, how do you achieve your taper? It is hard to tell if that is just a straight bar used just for cones.

Brian
 
Shaft

Question is for Both Murray and Dick. How long does it take to make a pass on a shaft. I can cut pretty smooth on a cnc lathe set up, but have to go slow as heck. I'm talking like 2ipm or I get chatter on final passes. I'd sure like to speed things up. Plus how much can you take off per pass, say when your at 13.5mm. Thanks!
 
cutter said:
Question is for Both Murray and Dick. How long does it take to make a pass on a shaft. I can cut pretty smooth on a cnc lathe set up, but have to go slow as heck. I'm talking like 2ipm or I get chatter on final passes. I'd sure like to speed things up. Plus how much can you take off per pass, say when your at 13.5mm. Thanks!

My machine runs at one speed. The shaft turns at about 160 RPM and it takes 4 minutes and 10 seconds to make a pass on a 30.5" shaft blank. It makes no difference at what size the blank is.

Dick
 
cutter said:
Question is for Both Murray and Dick. How long does it take to make a pass on a shaft. I can cut pretty smooth on a cnc lathe set up, but have to go slow as heck. I'm talking like 2ipm or I get chatter on final passes. I'd sure like to speed things up. Plus how much can you take off per pass, say when your at 13.5mm. Thanks!

I can cut smooth on my lathe too but like you I have to run it very slow. It takes like 11 min. to make a pass. My saw machine would do it in 4 min. and I could take a dowel down to a .622 shaft in one pass.
 
bkkpool said:
Murray,

Is the adjustable taper bar mounted on the front machined to your shaft taper? If not, how do you achieve your taper? It is hard to tell if that is just a straight bar used just for cones.

Brian

Yes, it is a shaft taper bar. There is also one for butts.
 
shaft cutter

Murray and Dick, thanks, damn, all I need is another piece of equipment.
I definitely want cnc. Murray, when you build yours, are you going to stay with the same type of set up and run the drive motor and cam cnc, or are you going to some other type of 2 axis set up. Again thanks.
 
shaft machine

Hi guys,Here is one of my machine i use 4 of these, it is the only way i cut my shaft and butts,i have not used a lathe to cut shaft and butts for many years,i even cut my rap grove on these machine,the machine u see is my rough cut machine,then it goes to my finish machine,the better the saw and blade the smoother the finish,also i here alot of cue builder taking about how scary these machine are,i will just have to tell u that these machines are the safest machine in my shop,my band saw is more scary then this machine,O also on building one of these machine for 300.00 well
i can't do it for that,the motor itself cost 225.00 for the one i use,so i don't know y someone would say that,there are alot of ways to build cues,but these machine make it alot easy and faster IMO,it is the only way for me and thats all i can say about them.If there is a better way please let me know and i will buy 1 or 2,and i am not talking about cnc,i think manual is faster,i can cut a shaft or butts in 2min. or slower in one pass if i chose.

Newshaft.jpg


Newshaft1.jpg
 
danger

pdcue said:
Sounds good - would you share what kind of cutter
you are using? Any special details on what you did
to get that good a result?

Dale<who is green with envy>
with the cnc saw machine, the danger is not so bad, your hands should never be near it!! they are more expensive, but they do cut very smooth.
 
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Hmm

I was just wondering. For those guys having a CNC setup with a router, wouldn't it seed up things if you made
a adaptor for a larger bladed, adjusted the distance and had a router with a high speed - like 60-100 000rpm?
I know routers operating with these speeds are expensive but if you find one used it would for sure be easier than
building a mechanical rig to go on a table saw. By the way Dick, is a table saw really running over 250 000rpm
or are you taking in to account the large amount of teeth on the saw blade?
N
 
Newton said:
Hmm

I was just wondering. For those guys having a CNC setup with a router, wouldn't it seed up things if you made
a adaptor for a larger bladed, adjusted the distance and had a router with a high speed - like 60-100 000rpm?
I know routers operating with these speeds are expensive but if you find one used it would for sure be easier than
building a mechanical rig to go on a table saw. By the way Dick, is a table saw really running over 250 000rpm
or are you taking in to account the large amount of teeth on the saw blade?
N

A number of things here. First, the larger the object in diameter the slower you can run it. As the radius is increased the speed is squared I believe. For an example, something with a 1/2" radius going at 20,000 rpm may have a surface speed of 100 mph. Now you double the radius to an inch an the surface speed now is 400 mph. At a certain speed and weight, centrifugal force will be to much for the spinning object and it will fly apart. This is the reason larger router bits for cabinet making must be run so much slower. I would imagine you could have a router bit made with a larger number of cutting edges still on a small circumference that would be quicker. It's the cuts per minute that you are looking for.

2. Sorry, If I said the blade was running at 250,000 rpm I misspoke. what I meant to say was 250,000 cpm. The table saw is running at 3450 rpm. 3450X72 teeth equals 248,400 cuts per minute.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
A number of things here. First, the larger the object in diameter the slower you can run it. As the radius is increased the speed is squared I believe. For an example, something with a 1/2" radius going at 20,000 rpm may have a surface speed of 100 mph. Now you double the radius to an inch an the surface speed now is 400 mph. At a certain speed and weight, centrifugal force will be to much for the spinning object and it will fly apart. This is the reason larger router bits for cabinet making must be run so much slower. I would imagine you could have a router bit made with a larger number of cutting edges still on a small circumference that would be quicker. It's the cuts per minute that you are looking for.

2. Sorry, If I said the blade was running at 250,000 rpm I misspoke. what I meant to say was 250,000 cpm. The table saw is running at 3450 rpm. 3450X72 teeth equals 248,400 cuts per minute.

Dick

Just picking nits here: doubling the radius only doubles the surface speed. I suspect you are confusing the relationship between diameter & area. If you double the diameter, the area increases by a factor of 4. If you triple the diameter, the area increases by a factor of 9.

And just to satisfy my curiousity, I did the math and a 1/2" diameter cutter @ 20,000 rpm has a surface speed of only 29.75 mph. The surface of a 1" diameter cutter @ 20K rpm is moving at 59.5 mph.

Your idea that more teeth on a given diameter would cut smoother is absolutely correct. The first cutter I made for machining tenon threads was a 2 fluter made from a 3/4" router bit. It worked but there was room for improvement. The next was made from a 6 flute 3/4" reamer and it worked much better. The final design has 10 teeth in carbide (at the same 3/4" diameter) & it cuts beautiful external threads.

There are 3 other factors to consider here, too. The speed at which the object being cut is rotating makes a difference, as does the feed rate. Assuming identical feed rates, Machine A, cutting at 250K cpm on an shaft rotating at 100 rpm, will have 2X the chip load than that of a shaft rotating at 200 rpm.

Theoretically, the faster the shaft turns, the smoother the cut. Theoretically.

Or...theoretically, if you double the shaft speed, you can also double the feed rate to achieve the same chip load you had with the slower setup.

Again, this is all theoretical. The 3rd factor that arises when such high speeds & cpm & a long, thin shaft are thrown together is harmonics. If something is the least bit out of balance or the wood is harder on one side or a few teeth are duller than the others, a vibration can occur that ruins all your efforts. The easiest solution is to slow things down a bit & be patient.

Whew. Sorry. Bob got carried away here. Does my mid afternoon boredom show? Back to the shop.
 
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rhncue said:
Nice looking machine. I love machinery!

Dick
I have a similar machine to the one on his site. It makes 55 gallon of wood chips/dust in about an 2 hours.
 
rackboy1 said:
with the cnc saw machine, the danger is not so bad, your hands should never be near it!! they are more expensive, but they do cut very smooth.

That all depends on the design of the machine, not the fact that it is CNC controlled. You can turn about any machine that has movement into CNC. One of the CNC saw machines that Bloodworth sells is probably safer than other saw machines because at the end of it's travel, the blade drops below the table, out of harms way. This is not the design of all CNC saw machines though. Those that are mounted on table saws still have the blade rotating above the shaft.

Dick
 
dzcues said:
Just picking nits here: doubling the radius only doubles the surface speed. I suspect you are confusing the relationship between diameter & area. If you double the diameter, the area increases by a factor of 4. If you triple the diameter, the area increases by a factor of 9.

And just to satisfy my curiousity, I did the math and a 1/2" diameter cutter @ 20,000 rpm has a surface speed of only 29.75 mph. The surface of a 1" diameter cutter @ 20K rpm is moving at 59.5 mph.

Your idea that more teeth on a given diameter would cut smoother is absolutely correct. The first cutter I made for machining tenon threads was a 2 fluter made from a 3/4" router bit. It worked but there was room for improvement. The next was made from a 6 flute 3/4" reamer and it worked much better. The final design has 10 teeth in carbide (at the same 3/4" diameter) & it cuts beautiful external threads.

There are 3 other factors to consider here, too. The speed at which the object being cut is rotating makes a difference, as does the feed rate. Assuming identical feed rates, Machine A, cutting at 250K cpm on an shaft rotating at 100 rpm, will have 2X the chip load than that of a shaft rotating at 200 rpm.

Theoretically, the faster the shaft turns, the smoother the cut. Theoretically.

Or...theoretically, if you double the shaft speed, you can also double the feed rate to achieve the same chip load you had with the slower setup.

Again, this is all theoretical. The 3rd factor that arises when such high speeds & cpm & a long, thin shaft are thrown together is harmonics. If something is the least bit out of balance or the wood is harder on one side or a few teeth are duller than the others, a vibration can occur that ruins all your efforts. The easiest solution is to slow things down a bit & be patient.

Whew. Sorry. Bob got carried away here. Does my mid afternoon boredom show? Back to the shop.

Sorry, my mistake on the circumference speed. However the facts still stand about speed in revolutions and diameter and weight of spinning object. Where the problems arise when turning spindles is the length and diameters involved. The shaft is so long and slender that everything affects it's stability when revolving. The shaft has an optimum speed where the out of balance weight of the dowel, the vibrations coming through the machine and being transferred to the dowel from the motors and drives and spring pressure from the drive and center which has an effect of bowing the dowel, will run fairly true. The slower the better as there would be more cpi if it is only turning 2 rpm but the travel would have to be so slow that it may take 4 hr. to turn one blank. This is one of the most time consuming jobs when building a shaft machine, no matter what design. Getting the maximum speed along with a very smooth consistent profile.

Dick
 
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