m.libre10 said:anybody have any suggestions. I'm thinkin of buying one. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
cyrex said:After wiping/cleaning the shaft I will do a really light sanding using 1500 grit paper then do a final burnishing/polishing with 3M lapping film 30 micron. Which is essentially the same stuff in Nick Varner's Q Smooth (green). I make knives and it's used to polish out any surface scratches.
If you want to try some out just PM me your address and I will send some to you for free. I believe it's about the equivelant of 15,000-20,000 grit paper. Polishes up the side of the tip very nicely as well.
Any hobby shop should sell sheets of the micro mesh or try cuestik.comchuckpilegis said:I think 30 micron is a lot more coarse than that
Maybe you mean 3 micron
Anyway I can only get 20 and higher(McMaster Carr)
Where do you get the finer stuff
Its like 1/10 the cost of the various polishing papers
m.libre10 said:what is shark oil??
How does it work with shafts?? As far as I am concerned I wanted to clean my shaft using dry method. I heard of this shark oil from a friend and does ot have any idea how it works>?
does anybody here had a chance to use it??
How much would it cost for a cue repair to clean shaft and re-seal?? is it safe also???
Thanks!
No...I have taken a 40 y.o. Szamboti shaft that was bluer than blue and used a brillo pad and a secret cleaner lathered up fairly damp and cleaned it...when I was finished it was like silk through your fingers and most of the blue gone and NO sandpaper...now I use Magic Eraser and some water...m.libre10 said:from what I heard, Its better safe to keep the shaft as dry as possible. Is that true??
and what is that 3M 9 micron polishing film.>? I dont mnd paying for it but I am really curious. Thanks!