In that exhibition, in was on the first try!
Shaft Stiffness and efficiency.
- Thread starter eyesjr
- Start date
First try under fire with 300 spectators!
BTW, I have 2 shafts. I just grab one and go to work.
Great shootin'.
Do you mind if I ask whether you prep the table or balls before an exhibition? No judgement, just curiosity.
pj
chgo
NEVER!!! Just clean balls with soap/water/vacuumed table.
You may want to tell that to all the sports scientists and teams that spend hundreds of thousands if not millions on developing things like a 1 oz lighter shoe for running or a car with another 2% less drag or lift. It is 100% the arrow, combined with the user. You are not going to see Olympic archers using a $50 WalMart bow, the equipment level will match the skill, and basically HAS to for the top performers to compete against each other. If a pro is playing some amateur, they can beat them with anything, but pro vs pro is a different story, or any even level going aginst the other. It's nothing that is not brought up just about every week LOL
You may be able to execute some shot with any cue, but if you are facing 10 players as good as you are, you are not going to go out and pick some $30 generic thing to use when they are using their normal equipment.
That cue I played with then was solid BEM butt Carom cue, 12mm tip and 18.3oz, made by John Guffey of Oklahoma City. It was a gift from him which may have been retail $200. I couldn't have hit the shot Any Better with a 2K cue! Or do "I" need it to execute.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
A cue is so much different than almost any other sports equipment. It is easy to make a cue light or heavy. A cue can be very warped and still very accurate. Even deflection matter. The tip is all that matters.
We all know that Efren was a world beater with a world beaten cue. I've played equal to my best with a house cue that you could see was warped from thirty feet. I won a tourney with a brass jointed cue that a bar had as a house cue. It was hot garbage, but didn't stop me from breaking and running almost every game...fully one of the best tourneys I have played.
A sprinter's shoes have a lot more going on. They need to be light because of the acceleration that a runner needs. You don't want excess weight at the end of the swinging levers that the legs become. The shoes have to be flexible in places and rigid in others. The shoes have to support the feet correctly.
The only reason a reasonably solid cue with a good tip matters is because the player allows it to matter.
I would even argue that playing many different cues is beneficial to a player's development.
I’d like to say thank you for having an open consideration. I see a lot of assumptions from the rest of the crowd.
The funny thing is, I’d bet most of them have a separate break cue! And the stiffness/compression question is concerning a breaking application. So all the woofing about equipment “covering poor technique” on here are non-sequitur.
I have tennis elbow. I’m cracking the break around 23-24mph on the predator app, and wanting to reduce the physical stress that my break has on my body without sacrificing too much power.
The intended goal here is to use several factors to their potential: stiffness, total mass, and efficiency. But taking the idea from paper to the real world is a different story. What elements would be best to improve? Well, the research I asked about would answer that question.
So thank you for the voice of reason. A paper, rock, and scissors make different arrows. Sometimes the Indian has tennis elbow and loses whitey when in pain. Sometimes on tough equip, the 17mph cut break doesn’t cut it.
As for someone else saying efficiency would never amount to any difference in a game of pool, try living in a podunk town with cheap Walmart balls all scuffed up(friction), and playing on a table where apparently everyone wipes French fry grease on the cloth lol (friction again from newbie powder/chalking). The bar table blues, I call it. We lost all of our 8&9 footers a decade ago. Additionally, I’m curious if that person breaks with a flimsy, pro-taper 2.8 oz 11.5mm maple shaft, given that efficiency “will never equate to anything in a standard game of pool”. That guy may as well use a slip-on tip. Lol. Sorry to joke about that in response to you.
So to the woofers that didn’t consider what hangthe9 did, indeed, the playing conditions and my physiological condition just may warrant a different arrow.
The side effect? If efficiency does equate to even a few percent difference, there is a new shaft design to come from it. I proofed the mechanical concept of it, next is to proof it with the correct materials. And yes, it would be legal by any sanctioning body.
I've acquired a bunch of different LD wood shafts over the years and recently acquired a carbon fiber.
It was proven to me that you can get a bit more side spin with carbon--- if you hit the cue ball with a wood ld using the same stroke and the same 1 tip of side spin by shooting at the same location you do with a carbon fiber shaft==stiffness.---
There is at least one side spin shot that doesn't seem to work this way and it's when you have to use a lot of side spin.
The stiffness of the shaft and the fact that you're out at the miscue limit causes more cue ball deflection on that one shot than a shaft that bends a little bit---therefore in that instance the wood shaft gets more side spin.
This is my favorite shot and when I use carbon, I have to cue closer to the center and unless I am using back hand spin, I can't get spin quality
even close to what a wood ld shaft can produce, so on one hand stiffness is a factor and on another it's a hindrance.
This means that in the future you'll see a new composite shaft coming from production that is more bendy yet lighter as carbon can be.
At this point I'm thinking a somewhat bendy plastic straw is next.
We could put a water filter in it and call it the life straw right? You could drink out of mud puddles in case of the apocalypse.
I caught up with a really good player in my area who told me that after 2 yrs. he went back to wood. Whenever you lose elasticity
I believe you can lose quite a bit and then you have to learn to play differently to compensate for it. Is it worth it? Carbon is stiff as
a nail as may be just the most recent experiment in getting us to buy stuff.
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You'd get the same effect by hitting just a little harder.
"More spin" (more spin effect) = higher spin/speed ratio. Hitting the same spot on the CB with a little more force produces a little more of both in the same ratio (same spin effect).
pj
chgo
Illustrations and info on this topic can be found here:
For those few who might be interested, the math/physics analysis can be found here:
For those interested, the full detailed analysis (which includes a little more than just "high school level physics") can be found here:
Good information and demonstrations related to this can be found here:
Anybody can easily duplicate my results using the easy and clear procedure in this video:
You don't need a machine to get accuate and consistent results (using the procedure in the video above). In fact, one must be very careful when trying to use a machine to test cues, per the info and warnings here (especially in the "Rules for CB Deflection Testing" section on the page):
Bob:
Notice that Dr. Dave confirms my statement in his new video "Common side spin Myths debunked" at time=7:20
I'm not sure what you think I am confirming, but I agree with everything Bob wrote above. Running sidespin does help the CB retain speed (i.e., not lose as much as normal) off cushions. Here are analyses backing up the things Bob says above:
- TP A.30 – The effects of cue tip offset, cue weight, and cue speed on cue ball speed and spin
- TP B.12 – Optimal tip height for speed/distance control
Bob wrote:: That is false. Adding sidespin does not increase the forward travel.
Dr. Dave writes: Running sidespin does help the CB retain speed (i.e., not lose as much as normal) off cushions.
See how these are in disagreement.
A more complete version of what I said is:
That is false. Adding sidespin does not increase the forward travel. It can help if you contact cushions but then the side spin is converted into speed. A ball struck off-center has less initial speed than a ball struck in the center.
Your statement was:
The side spin does not make the cue ball travel farther unless there is cushion contact.