Shaft tapers
- Thread starter ratcues
- Start date
IMO pro taper means the shaft is the same size for a certain amount of inches a pro taper can be 6 to 8 inches and it could also be 12 -14 inches you just need to ask the customer and exsplain this to them. There is a cronical taper more like a wedge, which gets bigger as you go down the shaft that gradualy grows IMO. This is what I always thought.
I just want some kind of concensous on the terminology. I always have customers define what they want but I am not sure they know. All they understand, sometimes, is the term and not what it means. Like they picked up the term "pro taper" in the pool hall and that's what they want no matter what it is.
I think it's to end the term "pro-taper".
When someone says " pro-taper" have him explain it.
These days when someone says I want a 12-inch pro "TAPER", he really means a 12-inch barrel instead of a 12-inch gradual TAPER.
When someone says " pro-taper" have him explain it.
These days when someone says I want a 12-inch pro "TAPER", he really means a 12-inch barrel instead of a 12-inch gradual TAPER.
Basic tapers
The European Taper (aka Conical taper) - Measurements vary at the joint compared to at the ferrule. Some conical (old bar cues) will have too strong a conical taper to others (less graduated taper) that are more comfortable when passing through the bridge hand.
A very slight slight Conical taper is also known as an European taper (aka as Straight Line taper) as it appears to be almost the same diameter throughout most of the shaft.
The Pro Taper (aka American taper) - is a slightly fast taper at a certain point behind the tip, and then a constant diamerter in front of that taper= 10-12" for Junior cues, 12-14" (13" is usually used) for normal Pro taper, 15" is extended Pro taper.
There is the Parabolic Taper (aka Figure 8 taper) since it resembles a much elongated figure 8 shape in the shaft. Measurements for this figure 8 shape are dependent on the cuemaker unless otherwise specified and required by the buyer.
I believe there used to be the Hyperbolic Taper (aka the Club taper) where the shaft tapers to a bigger diameter as it gets closer to the ferrule after it had tapered down somewhat lower. I am not sure, but I think some old Bushka's had this taper on them.
The European Taper (aka Conical taper) - Measurements vary at the joint compared to at the ferrule. Some conical (old bar cues) will have too strong a conical taper to others (less graduated taper) that are more comfortable when passing through the bridge hand.
A very slight slight Conical taper is also known as an European taper (aka as Straight Line taper) as it appears to be almost the same diameter throughout most of the shaft.
The Pro Taper (aka American taper) - is a slightly fast taper at a certain point behind the tip, and then a constant diamerter in front of that taper= 10-12" for Junior cues, 12-14" (13" is usually used) for normal Pro taper, 15" is extended Pro taper.
There is the Parabolic Taper (aka Figure 8 taper) since it resembles a much elongated figure 8 shape in the shaft. Measurements for this figure 8 shape are dependent on the cuemaker unless otherwise specified and required by the buyer.
I believe there used to be the Hyperbolic Taper (aka the Club taper) where the shaft tapers to a bigger diameter as it gets closer to the ferrule after it had tapered down somewhat lower. I am not sure, but I think some old Bushka's had this taper on them.
Pro taper doesn't really have a meaning anymore
My pro taper increases in size very slightly when going up the "straight" section of the pro taper. You can't see it or feel this when shooting but it is easy enough to measure. This slows down the fairly certain wasp waisting that shafts get as people clean and sand on them. Somebody else's "pro taper" may be truly straight, or it may taper far more than mine. Some new shafts start off with a slight waist due to shaft whip or uneven sanding too. I have seen very slightly modified cone tapers described as a pro taper by the owner also. I consider "pro taper" more of a buzz word than anything else. At best it describes a general shape.
The only way to know what a customer wants is to be sure that they know how to use a measuring tool and get measurements every inch or two of shaft or to get the old shaft when trying to match one. This is no guarantee that the new shaft will play like the old one of course, just that the profile will be very similar.
Hu
My pro taper increases in size very slightly when going up the "straight" section of the pro taper. You can't see it or feel this when shooting but it is easy enough to measure. This slows down the fairly certain wasp waisting that shafts get as people clean and sand on them. Somebody else's "pro taper" may be truly straight, or it may taper far more than mine. Some new shafts start off with a slight waist due to shaft whip or uneven sanding too. I have seen very slightly modified cone tapers described as a pro taper by the owner also. I consider "pro taper" more of a buzz word than anything else. At best it describes a general shape.
The only way to know what a customer wants is to be sure that they know how to use a measuring tool and get measurements every inch or two of shaft or to get the old shaft when trying to match one. This is no guarantee that the new shaft will play like the old one of course, just that the profile will be very similar.
Hu
ratcues said:
ratcues said:
Great questions, since everyone will disagree. I think Rambo started the pro taper, and there was definitely growth in the first several inches, but the growth was so slight that other cuemakers may have thought that it was constant/cylindrical. It wasn't, according to Ray Schuler.
I'm again guessing that Bob Meucci popularized the cylindrical delayed taper, but if you ask Bob, (again big time guessing or maybe I read it), his cues also had growth in the delay, but even less than Rambo.
Those that followed these two, IMO, simply assumed incorrectly. That is, this whole idea of a cylindrical shaft in the delay may have been a case of mistaken identity.
I'm with Shooting Arts in saying that the term doesn't even apply anymore.
I like the Rambo/Schuler pro taper, whatever that is.
Fred
Pro taper
Rat, you always are very helpful so I will give you my solution (hope it helps). Whatever someone call a "taper" really doesn't matter except to describe a very general shape. I assume you are trying to create something that someone wants or are trying to figure out what they are really describing. I have heard people describe the same shaft with a different name. Just about everyone has a shaft that they are trying to describe and words never convey the specifics, so have them bring the shaft. Take the shaft and chuck it up, measuring every .020 at the front (gradual taper) and every .050 when it starts to grow more rapidly. Mark the dimensions on your lathe and you can give them a very close identical taper. Make sure that you sand both directions to blend in the shaft, and never stop in any one place while the shaft is spinning. Leave the shaft about .010 large and look down the shaft. You will see all the spots that are sanded unevenly. Sand the spots and the shaft front to back evenly (rotating the chuck by hand) until the shaft looks smooth. The tricky part is starting with a shaft that is close to the original without making it too small or wavy (if you take off too much at one time, chances are the shaft will warp). After this is accomplished, you will probably find out that no two shafts play exactly the same, even with the same taper. Best of luck, Kent
Rat, you always are very helpful so I will give you my solution (hope it helps). Whatever someone call a "taper" really doesn't matter except to describe a very general shape. I assume you are trying to create something that someone wants or are trying to figure out what they are really describing. I have heard people describe the same shaft with a different name. Just about everyone has a shaft that they are trying to describe and words never convey the specifics, so have them bring the shaft. Take the shaft and chuck it up, measuring every .020 at the front (gradual taper) and every .050 when it starts to grow more rapidly. Mark the dimensions on your lathe and you can give them a very close identical taper. Make sure that you sand both directions to blend in the shaft, and never stop in any one place while the shaft is spinning. Leave the shaft about .010 large and look down the shaft. You will see all the spots that are sanded unevenly. Sand the spots and the shaft front to back evenly (rotating the chuck by hand) until the shaft looks smooth. The tricky part is starting with a shaft that is close to the original without making it too small or wavy (if you take off too much at one time, chances are the shaft will warp). After this is accomplished, you will probably find out that no two shafts play exactly the same, even with the same taper. Best of luck, Kent
ratcues said:
Tiger's "Pro-Taper" is as follows:
Let's say the shaft is 13mm at the tip. Now go 15-16 inches back (toward the joint) and the diameter should be very close to 14mm. This we call a 15"-16" Pro Taper.