Shaft type and amount of draw.

Wolven said:
I got some questions regarding type of shaft and amount of DRAW one can induce. Hope someone can give me some answers. Thanks in advance.

What effect does shaft taper have on amount of draw?
Would a stiff shaft allow for less spin than a whippy shaft?
Would a hollow shaft spin less than a normal one?
All assuming same type of tip and stroke.

I?m used to OB-1 and it is very easy to juice it up.
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What are the answers to your questions that you believe?
Has anyone tried a hollow shaft?

http://www.meuccicues.com/BlackDot.htm
I like the Broomstick vs. Predator demo.
 
I have come to conclusion that in the case of 2 shafts one of the biggest reasons for different results is the ferrule material.

Depending on the density of the material the hit will be different.
A wood ferrule would be less dense than a plastic one. Not applicable to OB1 ferrule explanation of technology on their website.

When the hit occurs the impact is being absorbed and dissipates thus providing less power. For example if you hit a dead rail the ball slows down while lively rail has opposite effect.

Hmm, it probably has more to do with elasticity of the material than density come to think of it.
 
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Ferrule density = mass = heavier?

I met a fellow that drilled out the front end of his shaft and deposited a copper (heavy) rod inside , replaced his regular ferrule and tip. He bet that I couldn't make a spot shot in 2 tries. What deflection!!

I didn't try a draw shot, but I can imagine that the CB would have jumped up on impact.
 
Im going to toss in my 2 .01. When I first started to play pool about three years ago I started using ob1 type shafts and could draw the ball much better with those shafts but now as my game has improved over the years there is almost no differance in my draw stroke with one of the high end shafts and my stock run of the mill McDermott shaft. Could it be that the ob1 type shafts are more forgiving to a poor stroke?
 
Chris Shaffer:
Im going to toss in my 2 .01. When I first started to play pool about three years ago I started using ob1 type shafts and could draw the ball much better with those shafts but now as my game has improved over the years there is almost no differance in my draw stroke with one of the high end shafts and my stock run of the mill McDermott shaft. Could it be that the ob1 type shafts are more forgiving to a poor stroke?
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Isn't it more likely that your stroke got less erratic and you got more realistic?

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Isn't it more likely that your stroke got less erratic and you got more realistic?

pj
chgo
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Im not really sure 100% on the reason it may have just been a confidence thing because in my mind the shaft helped me draw the ball? Or the shaft could somehow be more forgiving to a poorly struck cue ball? I am by no means an expert on the matter this is just my .02
 
Wolven said:
Thanks for all responses. As one of the stipulations I took the assumption of same stroke.
My stroke is good enough to produce a decent draw and my friend's is even better.

As a test with different cues we setup OB one diamond away from pocket and CB two diamonds away. The draw results for different equipment was different. With OB-1 shaft normal draw on 9ft table was all the way back to the rail and then 1 diamond past side pocket in the other direction. While another shaft would make 2 diamonds less. The difference would get greater when OB & CB were farther apart.

So, yeah I believe equipment will make a difference despite what Scott Lee says and that's why I'm asking the questions in the original post.
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But you have no way of know you hit EVERY shot with the same exact speed and the same spot on the cue ball. In short you test is VERY unscientific and flawed.
 
"When I first started to play pool about three years ago I started using ob1 type shafts and could draw the ball much better with those shafts but now as my game has improved over the years there is almost no differance in my draw stroke with one of the high end shafts and my stock run of the mill McDermott shaft. Could it be that the ob1 type shafts are more forgiving to a poor stroke?"

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm looking for a new cue, and this was relevant to me....

I have thought about this and now think what was posted (above) is the best answer AND is consistent with all the various opinions, here is why I think so:

1. To a pro (or to a machine) with a great stroke, there will be almost no difference between the shafts.
2. A total beginner will get no spin with any shaft, so again no difference.
3. But, the medium-level player WILL feel l a certain shaft is giving him more spin, NOT because it actually gives more spin than is possible with a regular shaft, but because it is more forgiving of his poor stroke!

disclaimer, I an NOT even close to an expert in pool, but I know alot more about tennis racquets. Same principals apply. Federer can get abundant topspin with any racquet. A beginner cant get topspin with any racquet. However if you hand the mid level player a racquet that is designed to get more topspin, it will definately be easier for that player to find some topspin without having a good stroke.
(final note, do pro tennis players ever use racquets that "help" them get spin? Never, they dont need to or want to.)
 
Bob Jewett said:
As grist for the mill of this discussion, the highest quality draw I see at the pool hall I play in is by a snooker player who plays pool with a light ash single-piece cue stick with a 10mm brass ferrule. That is, I constantly remark to myself, "how did the ball draw so for a hit that soft." On a 6x12 snooker table, he is also able to play from the jaws of a corner pocket and draw the cue ball straight back off blue into that corner. If you give him ten tries, he'll bet on it. Of course he does this with an open bridge.
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This is exactly what I experienced playing a snooker player some 8 ball a couple of weeks ago...he used his two piece snooker cue with a 9 1/2 mm tip and was putting unholy stuff on the cue ball...with an open bridge and a moderate to slow stroke. Kept complaining about the damage he was doing to his tip playing with his snooker cue but he kept at it, since I couldn't fade him.

I won't debate physics or fast speed cameras...I only know that a smaller tip diameter and a pro taper draws/spins best for ME. I have a consistent stroke and notice the difference between a european taper, parabolic taper and pro taper (all of which I have for the same cue) immediately in terms of MY ability to draw the rock. Same goes for diameter and bevel of the tip (but to a much lesser extent).
 
The maximum amount of spin (side or bottom) that can be imparted to the CB does vary slightly with the type of shaft, but not by much. For more info, and supporting resources, see:

The shaft/tip size and shape can certainly mislead people into think they are getting more spin. For more info, and supporting resources, see:

Tip hardness should have negligible effect; although, if the tip is not holding chalk well, you will miscue. For more info, and supporting resources, see:

The most important factor in achieving good draw action, regardless of the shaft or tip, is using proper technique. For advice and video demonstrations see:

Regards,
Dave
 
Maybe we can get MythBusters involved in solving these myths and get some needed exposure to pool in the process. :thumbup:
 
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