Shaft weight: which is the best, tip heavy or butt heavy?

[nancewayne]

I have MANY cues with original shafts and some shafts are as light as 3.2 oz. and some are as heavy as 4.9 oz.. I know the diameter, taper, length and having an insert make a difference in the weight, but does the maker deliberately make a cue tip heavy or butt heavy? Meucci shafts, as an example, uses a very long pro taper and their stock cues seem butt heavy.

Is there any shaft weight that makes the optimal balance point on the cue, or do you just have to adjust the weight bolt until you get the proper balance point? Then, doesn't that weight adjustment sometimes make the cue too heavy or too light?

I guess in the perfect world, a Custom cue maker can exactly match the shaft weight to make both the exact overall weight AND the perfect balance point, but not too many players can afford a Custom cue !

Your thoughts?

 

[MitchAlsup]

The only reason I prefer the wood-to-wood joints is that this takes a big chunk of weight out of the center of the cue--and thereby takes weight off the nose of the cue when my grip hand is at my grip location. This allows just a hint of shaft weight to hold the shaft onto the bridge but not so much that stickiness* interferes wth the stroke.

Other people will find this balance point too far back on the butt adn actually desire the bronze, brass, or steel joint coupler to add nose weight to the cue. If it works for you, the go with it.

I just feel that the wood-to-wood joints balance more lke the bar cues hanging on the wall, so if I forget my cues, or intentionally leave them home, the transition to the bar cue is much simplified {excepting for the lack of low deflection bar cues....}

(*) accumulated over a night of play.

 

[master9baller]

Balance point

I am now shooting with a Predator SE 11 that has a phenolic joint. Besides the much softer hit versus a stainless steel joint there is a big difference in balance point. When I got the cue it was about 19.5 ounces and felt butt heavy. In part because there was less weight at the joint. I took out the weight screw and now it feels very well balanced no matter how i hold the cue with either hand. The cue is closer to 18 ounces now, felt a bit light at first, but I like it now. The phenolic joint for me transmits alot more feel than stainless, I really like it more.

 

[nancewayne]

Shaft weight: which is the best...

This comment is EXACTLY the kind I wanted;

Problem: at 19 1/2 oz., cue felt butt heavy due to lighter phenolic joint (vs: Stainless steel),

Solution: remove 1 1/2 oz. of weight from butt end wt. bolt.

The comment, "now the cue is close to 18 oz., felt a bit light at 1st, but like it now". In my opinion, the solution is a compromise, the right balance in exchange for playing a lighter cue than you are used to. Do you know what weight the shaft is...my guess is that a 1st generation 314 weighs around 3.6 oz..
PS: you may want to get a 1/2 oz. aluminum weight bolt to fill the wt. bolt hole (helps protect the butt from internal damage).

Thanks!

I am now shooting with a Predator SE 11 that has a phenolic joint. Besides the much softer hit versus a stainless steel joint there is a big difference in balance point. When I got the cue it was about 19.5 ounces and felt butt heavy. In part because there was less weight at the joint. I took out the weight screw and now it feels very well balanced no matter how i hold the cue with either hand. The cue is closer to 18 ounces now, felt a bit light at first, but I like it now. The phenolic joint for me transmits alot more feel than stainless, I really like it more.

 

[Tbeaux]

With ALL cues you need to figure out what works for you as to weight and balance point. However the most overlooked thing about selecting or having a cue made is weight distribution. The weight differences in shafts is an excellent example of this. Say you have two cues...both weigh 19 oz., both have a 15" from butt bumper balance point. Are they the same...NO! One may have a 3.7 oz shaft and a stainless joint collar, the other could have a 4.2 oz shaft and a phenolic collar, the forearm woods could also weigh different amounts. It all figures in to what you decide "feels" more comfortable to you. It is also a damned good reason to actually visit the cue maker if you really want a custom cue because the woods you may select for the cue may not give you the feel when holding it that you want if the cue maker is just left to guess about what weight distribution you're comfortable with. So tha things the OP asked are very relevent but there is no magic answer to his question....it's all a matter of personal preference. :wink:

 

[LAlouie]

You're wayyy overthinking.

 

[alstl]

I started a poll on this topic about a year ago. Balance point between 18 1/2 and 19" was the consensus.

 

[ridinda9]

You're wayyy overthinking.

NO, they aren't . balance is a huge part of the way a cue 'feels' in your hand . The perfect cue , with the perfect balance point , just floats on the tip of your finger while you're walking around the table looking at shots . Get into position to stroke , and it just settles in as if of it's own volition. I own many , many cues - some bone stock , some modified production , and a few full-on customs , and only two of them - a modified Stratford Hustler from the 70's , and a custom John Robinson - float in my hand like that . Sure , I can play with other cues , and play well - but I am AWARE of them in my hand , and that's just one more thing taking away from my total concentration on the shot.

note on balance here - back in 'the day' , many forearm inlays weren't merely for decoration - they were covering holes that had been drilled and filled with lead or mallory metal to correct balance issues . This method , of course , can still be used today , but for some reason seems out of favor with many cue builders.