Short rail to long rail kicks.

buckshotshoey

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As I stated in another post, I'm going to do my best to help you fellow pool players. Here's a neat kicking system for short to long rail kicks. Its actually pretty precise. Works perfectly on my table. Other tables may need slight adjustments.

Using the numbers on the side rail for destination, multiply by short rail number. The A, B, C, D, on short rail should read as 1, 2, 3, 4. To pocket ball in diagram, the destination is 3.1, the start position is 3. Aim for 9.3 on far rail. If the cue ball start position is at 4, aim at 12.4.

Of course if you needed to hit a ball at 4 and start is at 3, aim at 12. It is a very simple system to remember and use. With practice, it really does work.
 

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buckshotshoey said:
As I stated in another post, I'm going to do my best to help you fellow pool players. Here's a neat kicking system for short to long rail kicks. Its actually pretty precise. Works perfectly on my table. Other tables may need slight adjustments.

Using the numbers on the side rail for destination, multiply by short rail number. The A, B, C, D, on short rail should read as 1, 2, 3, 4. To pocket ball in diagram, the destination is 3.1, the start position is 3. Aim for 9.3 on far rail. If the cue ball start position is at 4, aim at 12.4.

Of course if you needed to hit a ball at 4 and start is at 3, aim at 12. It is a very simple system to remember and use. With practice, it really does work.
Click to expand...

what book is that pic from??
link??
 
I just went down and tried it on my table. Cue ball at 3.5, shot it at lag speed, and it hit the pocket point exactly. Cue ball actually fell in side pocket. I really couldn't judge 10.85 so I just tried to see 10.5. It worked.
 
Yep, the Sid system. Credit goes to Sid Banner for coming up with it.

Btw, the first diamond on the top long rail should be "1.5", not "1.0".


Eric
 
Eric. said:
Yep, the Sid system. Credit goes to Sid Banner for coming up with it.

Btw, the first diamond on the top long rail should be "1.5", not "1.0".


Eric
Click to expand...

My table seems to work as 10. I try to use 2 digits instead of a decimal. Math is easier in my head.
Oh, and I'm glad you knew the full name of the guy. Always wondered about that.
 
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Thanks for this. I have seen this before but a refresher is always appreciated.

Soak yourself in some rep greenies. :)
 
it works going from the long rail to the short rail too
ive seen this called the "chicago" sid system
chicago sid.jpg
 
Yeah, yah sure, you betcha this is a good system. There's also a system for the long rail too, same guy come up with both systems. The systems, the two rails outa the corner, the plus two, the corner 5 are all wonderful systems to help a guy get out trouble, even help a player to determine where his cue ball is going after impact with an object ball..

A little practice goes a long way once you have the knowledge. Thank s to the OP for getting it out of a book & putting it on AZB...

Good Luck...
 
I would assume everyone here knows, but each table plays differently. I've never understood how some people have these "systems" when new felt always slides, gold crowns are lower to the floor, diamonds have different rails, etc etc. You have to make adjustments, no matter what the equipment is. I don't use a system, nor do I ever plan to.

How hard are you hitting the cue ball here? Enough to slide it across the felt and hit the first rail with dead slide on the cue? Or are we hitting it with enough to get it rolling and have the ball roll end-over-end before hitting the first rail? That matters.
 
CSykes24 said:
I would assume everyone here knows, but each table plays differently. I've never understood how some people have these "systems" when new felt always slides, gold crowns are lower to the floor, diamonds have different rails, etc etc. You have to make adjustments, no matter what the equipment is. I don't use a system, nor do I ever plan to.

How hard are you hitting the cue ball here? Enough to slide it across the felt and hit the first rail with dead slide on the cue? Or are we hitting it with enough to get it rolling and have the ball roll end-over-end before hitting the first rail? That matters.
Click to expand...

I have always played Corner 5 and Plus 2 using running English, and you first have to see how the table plays to know how much, but then it is pretty consistent. The Sid system I believe is center ball medium hit, and rail variances don't seem to be a factor with that one. I play a little top too if the cue ball is close to the banking rail.
 
buckshotshoey said:
As I stated in another post, I'm going to do my best to help you fellow pool players. Here's a neat kicking system for short to long rail kicks. Its actually pretty precise. Works perfectly on my table. Other tables may need slight adjustments.

Using the numbers on the side rail for destination, multiply by short rail number. The A, B, C, D, on short rail should read as 1, 2, 3, 4. To pocket ball in diagram, the destination is 3.1, the start position is 3. Aim for 9.3 on far rail. If the cue ball start position is at 4, aim at 12.4.

Of course if you needed to hit a ball at 4 and start is at 3, aim at 12. It is a very simple system to remember and use. With practice, it really does work.
Click to expand...
I think an much easier and faster way to aim kick shots like this is visually (with no numbers or math) using the system described and demonstrated in the following online video:

NV D.13 - Kick Shot Aiming Systems - from Vol-III of the Billiard University instructional DVD series

Enjoy,
Dave
 
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