Shot Question for Pros and AZBers. :thumbup:

Jal said:
Are you sure this was the shot?

Actually, I'm sure this was NOT the exact shot, since I'm going strictly off of memory from a month ago, and I wasn't even at the table at the time that the shot was being shown. What I am sure of is that from where I was sitting, it did not appear possible to draw the ball back anywhere near the red line. Indeed the first few times the kid hit the shot, the cueball did precisely what I expected it to, and I honestly couldn't figure out what it was that Efren wanted him to do differently - he just kept setting the shot up over and over while talking to the boy. Then, the last time he set the shot up, he adjusted the kid's bridge and all of a sudden the cueball came back at a dramatically different angle than it had on the previous attempts, at which point Efren said "yaaay!" and patted the kid on the back, lol.

Aaron
 
Y'all caught that Dr_Dave thread right?

Based on the high speed videos he's posted and physics stuff:
Low+outside will let you hit the ball fatter and get best results if you want to minimize sideways drift, but there's a limit to how far away you can be for this to work. I think he estimated about 6 ball widths only. I thought that might be a little conservative, but maybe all the times I've tried hitting low outside on shots like this, I'm deluding myself into thinking there was less drift when in reality it's the same drift as I woulda gotten anyway.

Low inside is apprently no go (I was curious about this especially), and will probably increase drift as you're forced to cut a little thinner to compensate for throw.

So the answer seems to be straight draw. I think this makes sense for 2 reasons... 1. Your low outside can't be useful over such a long distance anyway and 2. I think when you combine side with draw, you may be 'polluting' the draw a little by not hitting the CB as squarely. There's still draw but the effect is not as strong as when you hit center draw, moving the tip to the side for your spin also forces you to move it up a touch to avoid getting too close to the bottom left 'edge' of the ball. If you know what I mean. And moving it up has to hurt the draw a little.

Interestingly Dr_Dave found that for long distances, draw strokes closer to the center (a little bit) held their spin and got better results than the kind of pure low hits you'd use for closer shots.
 
CreeDo said:
....Based on the high speed videos he's posted and physics stuff:
Low+outside will let you hit the ball fatter and get best results if you want to minimize sideways drift, but there's a limit to how far away you can be for this to work. I think he estimated about 6 ball widths only. I thought that might be a little conservative, but maybe all the times I've tried hitting low outside on shots like this, I'm deluding myself into thinking there was less drift when in reality it's the same drift as I woulda gotten anyway.
Yes, I have a program that calculates this stuff, and it agrees with what you're saying. I don't think Dr. Dave is being conservative. This technique of using outside or inside english and throw to significantly manipulate the sideways drift (tangent line) velocity becomes fairly significant only when the balls are pretty close together, a matter of inches, more or less.

But with enough cue elevation, you can also masse/swerve into the OB and make a much larger difference in the effective cut angle. In the case of both Joey's and Aaron's shots, using inside while jacked up would be the choice, if you wanted or needed to use english at all. But figuring out on paper the optimum amount of sidespin versus pure draw would take quite a bit of work. I'm not sure it's worth it as it will be different for almost every shot. There are numerous variables, including just how much you want the CB to draw back.

CreeDo said:
Low inside is apprently no go (I was curious about this especially), and will probably increase drift as you're forced to cut a little thinner to compensate for throw.
I've practiced using inside to exploit the increased angle it allows in order to increase drift velocity, for maybe hours. All the while I thought it was adding significantly to it, until I looked at the physics (and probably was prompted by statements from Ron Shepard). As indicated, the balls have to be very chummy with each other for any really significant effect to take place. You don't gain anywhere near the apparent increase in cut angle, just the increased approach or "ghost ball" angle as Dr. Dave has called it (measured with respect to the line of centers of the balls in their pre-shot positions).

CreeDo said:
So the answer seems to be straight draw. I think this makes sense for 2 reasons... 1. Your low outside can't be useful over such a long distance anyway and 2. I think when you combine side with draw, you may be 'polluting' the draw a little by not hitting the CB as squarely. There's still draw but the effect is not as strong as when you hit center draw, moving the tip to the side for your spin also forces you to move it up a touch to avoid getting too close to the bottom left 'edge' of the ball. If you know what I mean. And moving it up has to hurt the draw a little.
For Joey's shot, I think you're probably right. If you hit it slow enough with inside so that swerve/masse lends a helping hand, you're also going to necessarily lose more draw spin on the way to the OB. Swerve takes away spin (both draw and sidespin) while doing its job. But without a lot of math or time at the table, I'm not exactly sure that there might not be an optimum amount of inside for some moderate cue elevation, other than zero.

CreeDo said:
Interestingly Dr_Dave found that for long distances, draw strokes closer to the center (a little bit) held their spin and got better results than the kind of pure low hits you'd use for closer shots.
Yes, that's true if you have limits to the amount of cue speed you can generate relative to the distance between the balls. That is, if any speed was possible, hitting lower right up to the miscue limit would get you more draw, no matter how far they were apart. But how many of us can produce it when the balls are six feet from each other?

I think another possibly more important conclusion of his is that moving out to the miscue limit is unnecessarily risky for most shots. The law of diminishing returns takes over, giving you very little extra spin for the gamble involved. I think Ron Shepard or Bob Jewett has made this point before.

Jim
 
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Sounds like we're in agreement here. Only think I'm still wondering about is if truly it's just a matter of inches where you can effectively 'hold' a ball with outside... I will try some hands out testing. Of course, the problem with hands on testing is that my own shotmaking and ball placement aren't perfectly accurate. If it turns out I can reduce drift by 2 inches over six feet I'd probably never notice it and question the results even if I did.
 
(I'M NOT TALKING ABOUT USING A MASSE DRAW STROKE TO MAKE THIS TWO BALL AND DRAW THE CUE INTO THE CORNER POCKET)

This is a power drill shot that some of you have lalready tried. I am curious for those of you who are inclined to try this shot if you think it can be made more easily using what type of "English" or simply just draw only.

John Schmidt, Ralf Souquet, Donny Mills, Chris Bartram, UnknownPro, Danny Harriman, Sarah Rousey, Grady Mathews, Corey Harper, JimmyM, Travis Trotter and all of the other pros are especially requested to respond. The rest of you AZBers can answer too. :D Don't be shy. I would like to see everyone put their own answer on the line.

CueTable Help




Thanks,
JoeyA

Use one tip of low & half a tip of right.

I know you said not to mention it, but you need a real clean and level stroke to hit this.
 
Use one tip of low & half a tip of right.

I know you said not to mention it, but you need a real clean and level stroke to hit this.

I'll have to practice this some more as I am unable to do this at this time.
JoeyA
 
I'll set the shot up tomorrow when everyone is awake (slamming balls in the living room will probably wake the baby up ;)). Just by looking at the diagram, I want to say that I'd hit it with center draw (and a lot of it), but I might feel differently when I'm actually looking at the shot in person.

I might have to buy myself something if I stick the cue ball in the jaws like that - you know - as a reward. I'll pretend that I beat myself out of something on a proposition bet. lol

Did you have a chance to try this shot?
JoeyA
 
Aaron,
Could you tell from observing the lesson if that inside English was used in addition to the elevated draw?
Thanks,
JoeyA
Actually this is a shot I practice.
The amount of OUTSIDE you use determines how much the ball throws towards the pocket. Tip low left MEDIUM SPEED spin it hard shoot it easy gets u to nearer the center of that rail.

LESS LEFT AND PLAYING MORE THE ANGLE OF THE SHOT takes the cue farther to the left on rebounding of the obj ball.
 
According to my screen left spin is inside, right spin is outside.

I have to admit that I would have to try this shot on a table to know how to shoot it but I will try some low right first. Right spin will pull the cue ball away from the rail on the return trip helping it get down to the corner fighting the tangent line and natural draw line. Speed is going to have a big effect on how you try to make this shot. I first thought Joey meant for the cue ball to scratch in this test. Rereading the information it is supposed to stop in the corner pocket. Given that I think I'll go with medium speed draw and add right spin until I get the job done. The cue ball is going to slide right on something near the tangent line before coming back and I think the hardest part of the shot is keeping the cue ball from rebounding off of the rail. Another advantage of right spin is if the cue ball does touch the rail near the corner pocket it will have more of a tendency to run down it too.

Put me down for low right but I'll have to admit it wasn't the thunk I thunk first!

Hu

I'm with hu Hu ;). The only way I see to make this shot and have the cue ball scratch in the corner is using low right english. I'm thinking medium hard stroke and extreme low right juice. The right throws the object ball to the left, and straightens out the hit on the ball. Now the cue ball will draw back on a straighter line.

I'm certain there are many good players who can execute this shot. It's almost a hanger for Larry Nevil. Well not quite a hanger, but I wouldn't want to give him five tries.
 
I have made it with outside, so it just gave me a laugh that someone would say that had "NO CHANCE" of working. The real goal here is to get people to try it themselves though, and not just talk about it.

It is a great drill, and can dramatically alter ones view of positional possibilites for a common leave. I strongly suggest to try the shot (from one diamond away from the OB along the sight line) yourself and post your results. From far away it is at best a low probability shot, from closer it opens up a whole side of the table for position w/out having to juice with inside and go 3-4 rails for position. It is a high % play from closer to the OB to pull the CB into the back corner position, if you use some outside along with your draw stroke IMO. Let us know what you think after you've tried it. I learned a lot from JoeyA's "power stroke drill", hope you do too! :smile:



td


Grindz,
You are exactly right. While I enjoy reading about the physics and the discussion in general of this shot, I wanted to see how many people could actually draw the cue ball into the pocket with notes on the equipment that was used.

It seems that no one has been able to draw the cue ball into the pocket on a Diamond Table. That may be due to the longer shelf, higher rail and different angled pockets. Just my thoughts for now.

I am impressed that you and a few others have been able to get the cue ball to the pocket or scratch (but it seems that it is always a Brunswick of some type.) not discounting the accomplishment because it is a feat on any table. Good shooting! (Soon)
JoeyA
 
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