I remember watching a video of a guy trying to market a rubber tip he made. iirc, the test pilot didn't have the skills to impress anyone to buy one.
During the 90's I was doing a lot of tips (mostly if not all Le Pro's) and one of the things I used to do with them before putting them on my cue lathe was to put them into a vice and squeeze them a bit before installing them. This seemed to resolve the 'inconsistency' problem with them people have mentioned. I never had a bad one doing this every time before installing them.I tap them on a hard surface and the sound they make is a dead giveaway.
A good tip will "tink" a bad one will just kind of make a slapping sound.
You can grade them for hardness this way too.
A visual inspection like Chris mentions is also helpful.
It's hard to believe that something to replace the leather tip hasn't come to market by now. The shoe heel looks like it would make for an interesting experiment!I personally still think a synthetic would work beautifully and predictably. Here's what I do sort of know. That Durometer scale that cue tip makers are using to measure the hardness of the leather is not a scale developed for measuring leather hardness. It's meant to measure rubber and plastics hardnesses. As far as I know and after asking a ton of leather tanneries there is no actual leather hardness "scale" per se. There are rebound/resiliency testers that I personally think would be a better measure of performance but again, nothing specifically for leather. The way I look at it and it's just my opinion when we say a tip is such and such a hardness that fine but compared to what? There really is no standard that I'm aware of. Comparing leather hardness to a shopping cart wheel or a tire is quite literally the old comparing of apples to oranges. I think the Janka scale for measuring wood hardness would be more accurate in the long run since that material pretty much runs the gamut from soft like a balsa to super hard like a lignum vitae. Also there are quite a number of books on the mechanical properties of woods to include modulus of elasticity which might be a good measure for tips. Plus the Janka scale runs from 100 up to roughly 3700. That's a huge scale in which fit tip hardness.
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There are said to be 12 different Shore scales according to Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer but none of the "everyday materials" is leather. I've seen some tip hardness charts that quote Shore C........NO clue what that is. I would love to see a standard developed one day so we're all on the same page and manufacturers can quote actual numbers instead of a generalized scale that doesn't relate. To me the numbers most are using is about as exact as small, medium and large when you order a pizza. Soft, medium and hard tip.......compared to
Shore 00
- Marshmallow: 10 Shore 00
- Gel Insole: 30 Shore 00
Shore A
- Rubber Band: 20 Shore A
- Mouse Pad: 30 Shore A
- Inner Tube: 40 Shore A
- Pencil Eraser: 50 Shore A
- Tire Tread: 60 Shore A
- Shoe Sole: 70 Shore A
- Leather Belt: 80 Shore A
- Phone Cord: 90 Shore A
Shore D
- Textbook Cover: 40 Shore D
- Golf Ball: 50 Shore D
- Shopping Cart Wheel: 60 Shore D
- Wooden Ruler: 70 Shore D
- Computer Case: 80 Shore D
- Bone: 90 Shore D
Howdy;A little late to the thread but we used to take a new LePro tip turn it on it's side and bite down on it. Some would split and come apart, some wouldn't.
I have always been curious as to how a tip made from vulcanized rubber would play on a cue.It would be nice to glue or even screw a rubber tip on, know exactly how it would play no chalk needed, and it last for years. Might be possible. Target price from the manufacturer, ten to fifteen bucks. Could be a cottage industry.
Hu
Layered tips will always be, all the rage now. With new ones endlessly coming onto the market. But I think you can't beat single layer. Thay are just as consistent, it just comes down to finding a good one.hope more guys come back, to use these tips in the future.I've tried many layered tips of all kinds of brands. What I have found is that yes they last longer, hold shape a little better. However, I think, that because of the layers and because of the glue that they do not hold chalk very well compared to single layer tips. All the layered tips I have had to take extra care to make sure the tip was covered in chalk and it comes off very easy. I went back to Triangle and Elkmaster several years ago and I am much happier. They eat chalk and I never miscue, they don't glaze and I really don't even need to chalk every time and I use Masters.
They don't last as long but they feel better hitting the ball and the other aspects I mentioned. Both types work for lots of folks so pick your poison and enjoy.
That's because pool players are some of the biggest suckers on the planet. They too easily fall victim to endless marketing ploys and/or always wanting to copycat what some successful pro is using (who gets their stuff given to them by sponsors). $30 tips. $30 cubes of chalk. $400 shafts. $600 ball cleaners. $500 ball sets. $40 pool gloves. Need I go on???Layered tips will always be, all the rage now. With new ones endlessly coming onto the market.
First time in capitalism?That's because pool players are some of the biggest suckers on the planet. They too easily fall victim to endless marketing ploys and/or always wanting to copycat what some successful pro is using (who gets their stuff given to them by sponsors). $30 tips. $30 cubes of chalk. $400 shafts. $600 ball cleaners. $500 ball sets. $40 pool gloves. Need I go on???
I have to agree, wasn't it P.T. Barnum who said "there's a sucker born every minute"? Will the most expensive multilayered tip mean the difference of you winning a tournament as opposed to using a single layered Le Pro tip? No it will not. Or will you wearing some expensive pool glove as opposed to no glove at all either.That's because pool players are some of the biggest suckers on the planet. They too easily fall victim to endless marketing ploys and/or always wanting to copycat what some successful pro is using (who gets their stuff given to them by sponsors). $30 tips. $30 cubes of chalk. $400 shafts. $600 ball cleaners. $500 ball sets. $40 pool gloves. Need I go on???
Very well said. Too meny forget, those guys with the black cues, fancy gloves,expensive tips.have been playing there whole lives. To get where thay are. You could give them any kind of equipment, and the result would be the same.I have to agree, wasn't it P.T. Barnum who said "there's a sucker born every minute"? Will the most expensive multilayered tip mean the difference of you winning a tournament as opposed to using a single layered Le Pro tip? No it will not. Or will you wearing some expensive pool glove as opposed to no glove at all either.
I had the same experience, thay sure are hard tips, but Thay play super consistent. And thay last a very long time.I had 3 of those, that where way better, than I thought.I would recommend anyone wanting a single layer tip to give water buffalo a try. They are rated very hard but the leather surface has an open grain that really holds chalk and resists glazing and mushrooming. So in play they don't seem all that hard. Not particularly sexy at less than a buck a piece but are very consistent. The side wall is hard to make beautiful too as the leather is course. A box of 50 will result in 50 successful installs. And a lot of happy customers willing to try something different.
I agree, but I think everything made that’s related to pool would fit in the back corner of an archery shop. Even the little plastic nocks on the end of the arrow that clips to the string have led’s in them. After being shot it will glow or blink for hours. Not to mention strings, sights, carbon arrows, arrow rests .. and we haven’t even gotten to the bows yetFirst time in capitalism?
There's a huge market for 70k dollar 4 wheel drive trucks that never leave the pavement or haul a load. Singling out the relatively tiny pool accessory market is just a sliver of the whole.