Slate Gap Fillers????

TheWizard

TheWizard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey there everyone :)

I wanted to ask you good people about what is the best all round filler to use for slate joins, before fitting new cloth, to allow for a table to be regularly vacumed and occasionally steam cleaned? :)

I regularly clean the tables at the room I play, but I can only clean the tables by brushing, because the gap filler is plaster paris and that crap, crack and chips, when using a vacume with any kind of puff in it, leaving lumps of plaster paris under the cloth and also, it's definitely not possible to steam clean a table, because if water comes into contact with plaster paris, it softens again vacuming the table for a steam clean, is a definite no no, if plaster paris is used.

I'm looking to find out about using bees wax or another filler, that will allow for a table to be vacumed and/or steam cleaned, and I wanted to ask if any of you guys can recommend any good and reliable fillers for this?

Thank you all very much in advance and I look forward to reading your replies, thank you :)

Willie

EDIT - Darn typos :)
 
Last edited:
slate gap filler

My vote is bee's wax.

I have seen bondo recommended, but have no experience with it.
 
Bondo is the best all around filler for cracks seams and splits. I used to use durhams hardrock putty for years but started having problems with climate issues. I finaily learned how to use bees wax the right way and it is very fast I just dont trust it yet I have worked on to many with wax that settled below the slate top and created a divit\pothole effect.

Bondo is very easy to seperate when you want to move the table again or relevel when the house settles some more.

I'm a firm believer in BONDO for proper installations and wax for temperory setups.

Craig
 
TheWizard said:
Hey there everyone :)

I wanted to ask you good people about what is the best all round filler to use for slate joins, before fitting new cloth, to allow for a table to be regularly vacumed and occasionally steam cleaned? :)

I regularly clean the tables at the room I play, but I can only clean the tables by brushing, because the gap filler is plaster paris and that crap, crack and chips, when using a vacume with any kind of puff in it, leaving lumps of plaster paris under the cloth and also, it's definitely not possible to steam clean a table, because if water comes into contact with plaster paris, it softens again vacuming the table for a steam clean, is a definite no no, if plaster paris is used.

I'm looking to find out about using bees wax or another filler, that will allow for a table to be vacumed and/or steam cleaned, and I wanted to ask if any of you guys can recommend any good and reliable fillers for this?

Thank you all very much in advance and I look forward to reading your replies, thank you :)

Willie

EDIT - Darn typos :)
Click to expand...

Partner, Bee's wax has been used for more than 100 year's. I would recommend nothing else, especially Bondo!!!!!!! Bondo, is the worst material to use for slate seams on pool tables. While it is fine to use for repairs, such as cracks, dents, or chips, it can cause de-lamination of the slate at joints.

If Bees Wax is applied properly there will never be a problem, and you will never damage the most expensive part of your pool table.

Have a good night!!!!!!
 
manwon said:
Partner, Bee's wax has been used for more than 100 year's. I would recommend nothing else, especially Bondo!!!!!!! Bondo, is the worst material to use for slate seams on pool tables. While it is fine to use for repairs, such as cracks, dents, or chips, it can cause de-lamination of the slate at joints.

If Bees Wax is applied properly there will never be a problem, and you will never damage the most expensive part of your pool table.

Have a good night!!!!!!
Click to expand...
WHAT????...Bees wax was used BEFORE Bondo came out, but try using bees wax in temperatures over 100 degrees....it melts, bondo don't! De-lamination of the slate at joints??????...what are you talking about? Bondo don't sink into the seams either...at later dates...after the job is done! Bondo helps hold the seams together, bees wax don't.

Glen
 
Would you use Bondo in the bolt holes too, I mean if the bolt holes go through the slate? In other words would you use Bondo for everything on the playing surface? Or would you just use Bees Wax for everything on the playing surface?
 
I have seen problems with just about every technique out there. We are all battling different climates and conditions which effect our installs. Being in a warmer climate, i can tell you RKC is correct. I have seen wax literally raise out of a seem while the seem is perfect. Still hate to see bondo in screw holes. At least cover the screw head with a piece of paper so your not digging bondo out of the head when you go to take it apart
 
Scruffy

Hey Scruffy,

Yea I live in a very warm and humid area. However my house doesn't seem to be that humid. I keep the temp about 77 -79 all the time in here.

I don't think they used bees wax on my table. I just think they used a cheap wax. And I have a couple areas that I have seen the ball roll into the divots. So I know that they have sunk a bit.

So I am trying to figure out what I am going to use when I refelt my table in the near future.

I don't know whether to try actual bees wax, or to try bondo.
 
txplshrk said:
Would you use Bondo in the bolt holes too, I mean if the bolt holes go through the slate? In other words would you use Bondo for everything on the playing surface? Or would you just use Bees Wax for everything on the playing surface?
Click to expand...
If the balls can't roll over the slate screw holes...you don't bondo them in...period! If they can actually touch the screw holes...then yes, first fill in the top of the screw with either cut paper or cloth, then bondo over the screw hole. I have to tell you, I haven't fillied in a screw hole in some 20 years...I think...LOL.

Glen
 
I don't dig out bondo out of the heads of slate screws...I drill out the head and remove the slate that way...then change the slate screws...then charge for new slate screws!

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
WHAT????...Bees wax was used BEFORE Bondo came out, but try using bees wax in temperatures over 100 degrees....it melts, bondo don't! De-lamination of the slate at joints??????...what are you talking about? Bondo don't sink into the seams either...at later dates...after the job is done! Bondo helps hold the seams together, bees wax don't.

Glen
Click to expand...

Glen, most people do not keep their tables where 100 degree + temperatures exist, now if you setting up table in that environment bondo may be what you need. However, under normal conditions Bees wax will do the job very well.

While bondo will not slip between the seams where the slate joints together, unless there is a gap, during disassemble extra care must be taken. Mainly to avoid delamination where the facing of the slates butt up to each other along the seam where bondo was applied. You can also have trouble if the table is moved / pick-up with bondo cracking at the same location.

Have a great Day Glen!!!!!:)
 
Think of it this way which deforms under heat, stress and gravity when slightly warm and not 100 degree's ........... Bondo shrinks very minimum while drying doesnt move under heat or gravity and time. Wax will move just from natural sunlight on a table I just did one 2 months ago he didnt want bondo only wax now he calls me everyweek from the wax moving table was installed outside with a awning to cover it and he keeps a cover on the table too but the evening sun just kills it Olhausen table also.

Bondo it no problems never a call back to fix em. If you asemble a table with the slate edges touching fully you will get delamination or chips like glass from faces rubbing together during leveling. Take two blades or 2 dimes to make a gap in between the slates so you can fit a blade in there to cut the bondo when you have to move the table later simple fix.. it doesnt make the playing area any bigger.

If you wax the slate its hard and a waste of time to remove wax from a broken slate or fix a blow out the size of a quarter to fill it with something better. I charge customer more when i have use wax or remove wax from a table might as will use packaging tape over the seam if you use wax both take 2 minutes to do and are just as hard to remove to do it right the second time $3.00 a gallon blows when you go back to fix it again...

Just another can of worms to pick @ patience, prepwork and time will make it come out right in the long term.

If it's fast and cheap it wont be good.

Craig
 
how large are these gaps everyone filling??? Every different technique has pros and cons. 1. Rock hard takes too long, you go broke waiting for it to dry, if you speed up the process by blow drying it won't last. 2. Beeswax isn't prefect but its effecient: quick, easy, don't damage screw heads and doesn't crack slate. 3. I never use bondo, only for slate repairs, but have been considering it, I seen bondo chip slates and create a situation were alot of gap filler is needed, also I don't think sanding slates is good. I have use candle wax and it has lifted out of the seams, I never have this problem with beeswax but have notice when redoing a job the wax has seeped in the seam. Because of this I have been considering bondo. I current have been using beeswax and have been experimenting with superglue. Then again, how large are these gaps? Ideally, gaps are tight, slates are matched and very little of whatever is used.
 
We've used either beeswax or quick set drywall compound for years with no problems.
 
I mainly work on used tables were the slate has been sanded, droped, chamfered or just straight abused over time. Most Tables have been worked on so much that the seam edge of slates are chamferd 1\8"-or slightly bigger with 1\4" blowouts and bigger from previous installs were the movers or mechanics didnt know about pinned slates and lifting the slate's up can chip the seams or blowout the slate.

I mainly work on old Brunswicks for years but this year it seems to be mainly import tables now with crooked slate stripped out slate screws wood and head both gone. Always fixing rookie mistakes or rushed work frm people trying to be done in under 2 hours or the move the table with 4 guys and twist the frame pop slates.

When I used to work for a shop we just threw the slates in the back of a cargo truck with the frame assembled not tied down drove 10-20 miles made at least 10 turns on and off the freeway and when we got there the slates would look used with the edges taking the most damage, the table legs were scratched and we had to be done in under 2 hours or risk being fired. Finialy he came to his sense's and things are protected done okay but not great.

I mainly deal in slates that were probably droped or slid on concrete steps just rough edges in general who knows but the damage is there.

I do tables in 3-5 hours fill in old slate screw holes in the frame recenter slates to tighten up the gap in the slates and or line up the center slate better over the pocket cutouts. Reglue any loose rubber replace all facing tighten all screws I try to make every table I touch play and bank perfect to the best that brand table will let me do. While i'm waiting for glue to dry might as well wait for the bondo and it realy doesnt take much time what in 10- 20 minutes I have a bad back so I strech it out clean my tools and my hands get ready to set feather strips, stretch cloth for an hour.

WE all know the rest of it.

On new tables setup right I have done my last twenty tables in wax and i see an advantage on new tables but once the slates are damaged what sticks to wax and that is why i dont like using wax. It creates a huge mess and awaste of time when you repair a broken slate or a huge blowout filled with wax how can you warrenty a repair job done in wax? If I remove th wax what will stick in the blowout lined in wax now I have to carry a torch melt the wax out carry the slate outside or put cardboard under the table so i dont get wax in or on the carpet then i can put bondo on the slate a fix large blowouts and warrenty my work that i can put my name on and know its done right.

For the fast dollar I do like wax all most as fast as tape for people who want a discount on table repairs. I was taught how to be a hack 10 years ago but now i have been back to work on ones I have done wrong It always comes back to haunt you later so why hack it when you can do it right the first time and get repeat business more often.

Sorry so long I was probably venting my truck was broken into but they didnt take my tools or any cues just my G.P.S unit and some pride this last weekend.

Craig
 
This is the last thing I'm going to say about using Bondo. First of all, once I've gotten the slates all centered on the frame of the table, I'll secure the center slate with the slate screws, then...making sure that I scrape clean the seam edges of the slates first, I slide the end slates up to match the center slate...both ends. Then as I mount the end slate screws, before I tighten them down...I'll take 2 ratchet straps and run them around the slates going length wise from corner pocket to corner pocket, tighten them up...sucking the end slates to the center slate on both sides...then secure the slate screw on the end slates. This ensures that I have a tight fit on the seams of the slates. Then with little or no seam edges to fill in...after leveling the slates first...I'll fill in the seams of the slates with bondo. I have no intentions of sanding off the bondo, as there is no need to if you take a carpet scraper handle with a utility razor blade mounted in it...and just before the bondo hardens...scrap off any excess bondo...that you would normally sand off...it comes off real easy. Then after the remaining bondo hardens...sand to finish lightly. If you have any areas that are recessed after lightly sanding, then re-apply bondo to those areas and repeat the above steps. I do NOT gap the seams to allow for bondo to squeeze down in between the slates. If you have a chip in the slates that cover both sides of the seam, then first place a piece of paper in the seam between the two slates as to create a separation from one side to the other before you bondo, so that if the slates are taken apart the paper will split in half and not tear up your bondo work.

Glen
 
mission said:
Cobra, please answer your pm's.
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I do, but the easiest way to get a hold of me is to call me on my cell.

Glen 702-927-5689

PS. Check with A.E. Schmidt in Missouri, ask them about cushions for a 6 x 12 snooker table, as they restore and build antique Brunswick pool tables, or at least they did in the past.

Glen
 
TheWizard said:
Hey there everyone :)

I wanted to ask you good people about what is the best all round filler to use for slate joins, before fitting new cloth, to allow for a table to be regularly vacumed and occasionally steam cleaned? :)

I regularly clean the tables at the room I play, but I can only clean the tables by brushing, because the gap filler is plaster paris and that crap, crack and chips, when using a vacume with any kind of puff in it, leaving lumps of plaster paris under the cloth and also, it's definitely not possible to steam clean a table, because if water comes into contact with plaster paris, it softens again vacuming the table for a steam clean, is a definite no no, if plaster paris is used.

I'm looking to find out about using bees wax or another filler, that will allow for a table to be vacumed and/or steam cleaned, and I wanted to ask if any of you guys can recommend any good and reliable fillers for this?

Thank you all very much in advance and I look forward to reading your replies, thank you :)

Willie

EDIT - Darn typos :)
Click to expand...

Willie, I never heard of anyone steam cleaning cloth. Doesn't the moisture from the steam make your tables roll slow?
 
I've heard of some removing the cloth and having it dry cleaned. Usually I just think - yea ok whatever. On gap fillers there's probably a dozen different things people use so I doubt there would be any consensus.
 
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