Soft hitting custom cue maker cues?

Jimmy_Betmore said:
For what it's worth, if someone asked me what I'd do to soften the hit of their cue these are the things I would do and in this order. It's a lot. But the idea is to get you where you want to go without going too far. And, yes. It's overkill. But you're basically tuning your cue. And if you take the game seriously it'll be worth it if you're looking for a very specific hit/sound. If you're feeling adventurous and want to take a shotgun to the problem, go ahead do all of these at once. It's anybody's guess how the cue will play. But at least you'll know pretty quickly.

1. Change to a quality soft tip
2. Change the tip (same tip but new) but add a pad
3. Change the ferrule to a softer material than what's currently on the cue. Another new tip just like the one that was on it but no pad.
4. Change the tip yet again (same tip but new) and add a pad.
5. Have the taper lengthened.
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Agree with all, I mentioned the tip and pad. A softer ferrule material would be Juma for starters.
 
WildWing said:
I wouldn't think he could convert his cue to a wood to wood joint but agree on the fiber ferrule. I mentioned Juma, both are on the soft side for ferrules.
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You can convert shaft female joint threads with a drilled plug and then re-tap, similar process with the joint pin.
 
sbrownn said:
no
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But wouldn't you have to significantly widen the interior of the existing joint, to get the pretty standard wood to wood shaft pin in? Not so concerning for steel, but if ivory joint, any downward pressure, or bending of the cue could crack the joint? I'm just picturing the typical wood to wood joint where that shaft wood pin section is quite large, as is the case with my Longoni carom cue. Not saying you're wrong, just wondering about a joint conversion like this.
 
WildWing said:
But wouldn't you have to significantly widen the interior of the existing joint, to get the pretty standard wood to wood shaft pin in? Not so concerning for steel, but if ivory joint, any downward pressure, or bending of the cue could crack the joint? I'm just picturing the typical wood to wood joint where that shaft wood pin section is quite large, as is the case with my Longoni carom cue. Not saying you're wrong, just wondering about a joint conversion like this.
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you over-drill out the shaft threads, glue in a plug. you remove the joint pin and over-drill similarly with another plug. re-tap shaft(s) to new pin, re-tap butt for new pin and install new pin. done...
 
Ability to hit SOFT is possible, if you learn to shoot SOFT, another skill to learn.

Most Banger love hitting hard, they have no control, and often make me SMILE.
 
My Schon's with a Jacoby ultra shafts play crisper than my Jacoby radial joint cue with the same Ultra shaft and tip. Both shafts same taper and tip, both cues no wrap.
I'm not saying the Jacoby is soft by any means though.
 
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