Soft hitting custom cue maker cues?

For what it's worth, if someone asked me what I'd do to soften the hit of their cue these are the things I would do and in this order. It's a lot. But the idea is to get you where you want to go without going too far. And, yes. It's overkill. But you're basically tuning your cue. And if you take the game seriously it'll be worth it if you're looking for a very specific hit/sound. If you're feeling adventurous and want to take a shotgun to the problem, go ahead do all of these at once. It's anybody's guess how the cue will play. But at least you'll know pretty quickly.

1. Change to a quality soft tip
2. Change the tip (same tip but new) but add a pad
3. Change the ferrule to a softer material than what's currently on the cue. Another new tip just like the one that was on it but no pad.
4. Change the tip yet again (same tip but new) and add a pad.
5. Have the taper lengthened.
Agree with all, I mentioned the tip and pad. A softer ferrule material would be Juma for starters.
 
I wouldn't think he could convert his cue to a wood to wood joint but agree on the fiber ferrule. I mentioned Juma, both are on the soft side for ferrules.
You can convert shaft female joint threads with a drilled plug and then re-tap, similar process with the joint pin.
 
But wouldn't you have to significantly widen the interior of the existing joint, to get the pretty standard wood to wood shaft pin in? Not so concerning for steel, but if ivory joint, any downward pressure, or bending of the cue could crack the joint? I'm just picturing the typical wood to wood joint where that shaft wood pin section is quite large, as is the case with my Longoni carom cue. Not saying you're wrong, just wondering about a joint conversion like this.
 
But wouldn't you have to significantly widen the interior of the existing joint, to get the pretty standard wood to wood shaft pin in? Not so concerning for steel, but if ivory joint, any downward pressure, or bending of the cue could crack the joint? I'm just picturing the typical wood to wood joint where that shaft wood pin section is quite large, as is the case with my Longoni carom cue. Not saying you're wrong, just wondering about a joint conversion like this.
you over-drill out the shaft threads, glue in a plug. you remove the joint pin and over-drill similarly with another plug. re-tap shaft(s) to new pin, re-tap butt for new pin and install new pin. done...
 
My Schon's with a Jacoby ultra shafts play crisper than my Jacoby radial joint cue with the same Ultra shaft and tip. Both shafts same taper and tip, both cues no wrap.
I'm not saying the Jacoby is soft by any means though.
 
Agree with all, I mentioned the tip and pad. A softer ferrule material would be Juma for starters.
Yep. That's what I was thinking as well.

And for anyone who didn't pick up on why I put them in the order they're in, it's because everything except monkeying with the taper can be changed back to what it was. I haven't found anyone (yet) who can successfully add wood back to a shaft taper. So there's no turning back once that's done. And for those who care about this sort of thing, it will almost certainly affect the resale value of the cue.
 
Are there any cue makers that make a cue with softer, more subtle or buttery hit?

Whyte Triple 60 advertising speaks to you.
In its video, The Science of Feel | Triple 60 Multi-Density Fill, Triple-60 spokesperson states their shaft can provide a buttery hit:

What we did was we introduced a multi-density fill into the shaft in the construction of these carbon fiber shafts. Basically you're starting with a hollow tube. One of the things that we wanted to do was to maintain low end mass. So, when we introduce our fill pattern to the shaft we actually start ten to twelve inches back from the tip. We’re not introducing any mass out here we're utilizing a relatively high density material in this location where the taper starts and gradually making the density lighter as we get to the joint. When we do the final assembly we put everything in compression. So, we get a good transition of vibration through to the handle. The hit that we get utilizing the multi-density fill pattern is more of a buttery feel like you get with wood.
Whyte Triple 60 shaft 3 multi-density.jpg


 
a pad under the tip and dont cut the tip down more than needed to shape it. that is the softest parts of the cue that give the feedback.
 
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