solid maple forearm

danick70

69 Beep Beep
Silver Member
Are solid maple forarms more prone to warping than other species?
I read some cue makers won't use maple for solid forarms for this reason?
thanks, Jim
 
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I don't know if this is the answer your looking for but I'll take a shot, Anything that is wood can warp, Is maple more prone to warping than another wood, No, wood is wood. Careful steps in seasoning the wood can help prevent it but there are still no guarantees. We Cue makers take the steps in our shop but it is still a joint effort that you the player must still take care of your cues. I say it all the time, temperature and humidity to wood is what poison is to us,
 
thats a good answer mike

danick. ask yourself this. think of all the cues you see. and a large majority of them have maple forearms.

if the right steps are taken it will be ok. as for any wood if mistreated it will let you know

where are you in sj. i think i asked this before
 
Some wood species do have more "movement in service" than others, but maple tends to be relatively stable. As stated above, if seasoned well, there should be no problem making a solid maple forearm.
Mr H
 
As already mentioned, If It's properly seasoned and turned It should be fine by the time It makes It into a finished cue, Some types of maple are more stable then others though.

Provided the cue is well sealed, and the owner protects it from drastic changes in temp and humidity then usually Maple will do better then a lot of other species of woods.

Ofcoarse there are exceptions to the rule, wood is wood, It has a mind of It's own, therefore It's gonna do what It wants to do.

Greg
 
I usually core Birdseye, Curly and always quilted maple with straight grain maple, laminated maple or purple heart.

Dick
 
I think solid maple should be fine, if the sit time is enough. and that the finish is important in keeping 'poison' out after the cue is joined.
Good luck my man!
 
dave sutton said:
think of all the cues you see. and a large majority of them have maple forearms.

A short time ago I didn't even know about coring. I made several cues out od BE and HC and still do, ( I love the hit!) but I believe I properly season my wood MY WAY and- knock on wood- have never had a cue come back for warp issues.

TO THE ORIGINAL POSTER-

With that said, the moral of the story is not to be fooled by all of those BE and HC maple cues you see out there. If the builder used a larger core, when they turn down the tenon for the joint collar, you will never know.
Conversely, a watchful eye can look at the rings in the maple under the joint collar, and easily be able to tell.

I often ask myself, did Balabuska core?...though he used a lot of "straight grained" maple which is believed to be more stable. I don't know... but I don't think so.
Maybe a lingering 'Buska expert can enlighten me on this topic.

Hmmmm...what about Gus Szamboti and his BE cues...??? Barry??

Yammering.
~Chris
 
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The less figure, the more stable. I won't use heavy figure birdseye unless it's cored with GOOD maple. Heavy birdseye is borderline burl, and like burl will have a dull, dead tone that absorbs the energy of the hit. It's also very weak & can literally just break in half during play. Medium to light birdseye i'd rather use uncored because birdseye is generally a slower growing tree & slightly more dense. When I do core maple, I core it with some shaft maple.

I really love curly hard maple, but again with severe figure I core it with other maple.

Generally, maple is plenty stable for forearms & handles. If we can make shafts from it that don't warp, then forearms & handles should be no problem. I don't know ANY builder who won't use maple shafts & nobody cores them with other wood to make them stable.
 
Poulos Cues said:
A short time ago I didn't even know about coring. I made several cues out od BE and HC and still do, ( I love the hit!) but I believe I properly season my wood MY WAY and- knock on wood- have never had a cue come back for warp issues.

TO THE ORIGINAL POSTER-

With that said, the moral of the story is not to be fooled by all of those BE and HC maple cues you see out there. If the builder used a larger core, when they turn down the tenon for the joint collar, you will never know.
Conversely, a watchful eye can look at the rings in the maple under the joint collar, and easily be able to tell.

I often ask myself, did Balabuska core?...though he used a lot of "straight grained" maple which is believed to be more stable. I don't know... but I don't think so.
Maybe a lingering 'Buska expert can enlighten me on this topic.

Hmmmm...what about Gus Szamboti and his BE cues...??? Barry??

Yammering.
~Chris

since ive never seen a forearm GB made himself id say no he didnt core. he bought all his forearms. also gus cut his points into a square pc of maple so does barry still so they dont core maple either
 
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