Some general OB+ shaft information needed, please... ;)

[Bob 14:1]

I just received this amazingly prompt response from OB Cues. (SHOWN BELOW IN BLUE FONT)

Perhaps I'm old, or dense, or both, but for the life of me I still cannot get a definitive answer on, or understand, what in the world is an OB "MODIFIED PRO TAPER?"

I'll most likely opt for the OB+ XL with the layered maple ferrule. I believe it to be a cylindrical shaft as opposed to the conical taper of the other smaller shafts out there. I like a soft hit, and shoot quite a bit better with a larger diameter shaft. The XL is 13.25mm. I expect it'll deflect more than the very thin shaft diameters, but the comfort of the larger shaft diameter overrides the deflection issue.

I would like to know who left on the standard Everest tip? If you changed out the tip, to which tip did you change to, and why?

For those cuesmiths reading, is the disc of carbon fiber between the tip and ferrule something that poses a problem when re-tipping is done?

Aside from a softer hit, is anyone aware of other advantages, or disadvantages, of the layered maple ferrule v. their more conventional white ferrule?

Thank you soooo much for helping me out!!!

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Bob,

Thanks for the email and we look forward to you owning one of our shafts! As far as availability, most shafts are in stock. If a shaft is not in stock then it should take no longer than 4 weeks to be available. Please note that 30” shafts and special joint types always take 4 weeks as these are made to order.

We refer to our shafts as having a ‘modified’ taper to infer that it may be a little different from another taper with the same name (like another pro taper or conical taper). In other words, not all pro tapers are identical and not all conical tapers are identical.

We feel that too many manufacturers use the blanket term ‘pro’ or ‘conical’ when describing the taper on their shaft and we don’t want consumers receiving a Pro+ if it was simply called a conical taper and expecting that the taper would be exactly the same as another shaft that they may own that has a conical taper. Using the word modified is our way of letting you know that it is a little different than what you may have used in the past.

As an example, to compare an OB Pro+ shaft with a ‘modified conical taper’ and a Predator Z2 shaft with a ‘conical taper’, the taper on the Pro+ and Z2 are very similar. You may not notice the difference (although many players might). The main difference would be in the shape that the taper takes over the first 12 inches or so, ours gets fatter a little quicker which makes it stiffer.

 

[RichSchultz]

I replaced tip with Kamui Black Clear Supersoft. The maple ferrule is all about the softer hit/feel.

 

[The Renfro]

Most players do swap out the everest but you can always upgrade when you order to the tip of your choice instead of changing it one you get it....

The pad is REQUIRED to remain on the shafts but most authorized repair guys have them in stock if for some reason it has gotten too thin....

The hit is the main thing... Originally it was also lower deflection than many ferrule material alternatives... With the new LBM they are using that is no longer the case... At one point I was talking to OB about possibly offering 2 different tips on the different ferrules because the maple seemed to come a live with a slightly harder tip than the LBM needed.....

 

[BRussell]

You probably already know this, but the pro taper has a more consistent width around the bridge, and the conical taper widens more around the bridge. Do you want exact measurements or something? I think it would really benefit you to just find a place that carries them and give them a try. It's a subtle difference, but noticeable.

I've had OB shafts re-tipped, and they say the pad doesn't cause a problem. I'd ask the person doing the re-tipping about it, and see how they respond.

I left on the standard everest when I bought one several years ago, and it fell apart quickly. I got a second one recently and I had them put on a kamui black medium instead.

 

[WGDave]

Replaced tip with Kamui Black SS one week after getting OB130 cue (OB-1+ shaft). Miscue ratio went up with the Everest. Shop that replaced the tip reused the carbon fiber pad for the first tip replacement.

If OB has not yet shipped your shaft, add a pack of six carbon fiber pads so that you have them for future use. My tip guy does not stock them usually, so I wanted to be ready.

Next tip will be a Zan Premium Soft.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Hey Bob. Honestly, I have no idea what a Modified Pro Taper is. OB, with their more sophisticated CnC equipment can pull off different tapers. Now, for the life of me, I can't remember what the other name for it is. Old age memory and all.

I have done a European Taper, mostly for a break shaft. Pro Taper for me is approx 12 inches.

If Joey or Rat Cue Ryan from the Cue Maker Forum see this, I believe either would be able to explain that one much better. It is just one word and on the tip of my tongue. Darn.

I'll PM Joey and ask him to pop in.

Nothing wrong with an Everest. I keep a box for a couple of guys who prefer them in town. I have used them but not overly experienced.

Myself, my Go To Tip these days is the Ultra Skin. I have never had a complaint.

Altho, Tony from Talisman sent me a few of his new tips that he is Beta Testing. I haven't had a chance to try one but installed a couple for Friends to test.

The word is, Pretty decent. One fellow is very particular on his equipment, specially tips, so if I was going to get negative feed back on that one, I would have known about it, trust me.

Altho, I have also had great luck with the older Talisman softs.

I started using a Navigator Tip at the end of last Season. It took a couple of games to get used to the Soft, but I can tell you, this is the one, for myself anyway.

So, the debate on the small wafer in between the ferrule and tip. OB uses a real Carbon Fiber wafer. I like em. I keep a few around in case I change a tip on an OB and can't salvage the old wafer. Other than that, I use a ordinary wafer and mainly for a Break shaft.

People feel that it changes the hit of a cue. Again, far from an expert but I doubt anyone has the ability to feel the difference. Tips yes, wafers, No. They are on the bottom. I see it as an small 1/32" extension of a hard ferrule, so how would anyone really feel, or know.

OB puts them on the wood ferrules for a reason so I wouldn't mess with that part.
You know, as a tip does get smaller, where many players do like them to be, the outward pressure from the hit can damage a ferrule.

I will let Joey know so he can give you a decent explanation of what a Pro Modified is, or what it is to him. I believe that he does play with that himself, as many other Cue Makers do also. OB isn't the only one that does. Altho, I am sure everyone has a Secret Formula for theirs.

 

[Bob 14:1]

Thanks a million for your information and passing things along to others!!!

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Yayyyyy! That one word hit me. Hahahaha.

Parabolic Taper. Now, I don't know if the Pro Mod is this, a Parabolic Taper, or a variation, or this and a name change to make it simple.

But, I did let Lil Joey know and yes, he can tell you exactly what a Parabolic Taper consists of.

All I know is that I couldn't explain to you what it is in a fashion that would make 100% sense because I don't have a complete grasp of it myself.

Maybe the shape of a Coke Bottle. Fly Fishing, we use a Double Taper Line at times, so that is kinda like it, a double taper, altho, I could be close to being full of it. We'll see.

 

[JoeyInCali]

taper takes over the first 12 inches or so, ours gets fatter a little quicker which makes it stiffer.

I think it's between conical taper and "pro-taper".
I consider a taper " conical " when the taper is some 3MM from tip to the middle of the shaft.
So if the tip is some 11.75" and it's 14.75" in the middle, that is conical to me.

A pro-taper to me ( TO WHAT IT IS UNDERSTOOD TODAY ) is less than 1MM taper to the middle of the shaft .
If the tip is 13MM and it's less than 14MM in the middle of the shaft , that's a pro taper to me .

Might as well ask OB what the tip size is and diameter at the 12" spot and 14.5" spot .
Compare that to what you are used to.

I like mine more than 1MM of taper to the middle. But, not quite 2MM. My late mentor liked it fat in the middle of the shaft Up to 2 1/2 MM taper to the middle . I just find it too stiff and move too much in the bridge hand.

Fwiw, the hit will depend on the maple's quality too. Some maple will be whippy even with conical taper .

 

[JoeyInCali]

Yayyyyy! That one word hit me. Hahahaha.

Parabolic Taper. Now, I don't know if the Pro Mod is this, a Parabolic Taper, or a variation, or this and a name change to make it simple.

But, I did let Lil Joey know and yes, he can tell you exactly what a Parabolic Taper consists of.

All I know is that I couldn't explain to you what it is in a fashion that would make 100% sense because I don't have a complete grasp of it myself.

Maybe the shape of a Coke Bottle. Fly Fishing, we use a Double Taper Line at times, so that is kinda like it, a double taper, altho, I could be close to being full of it. We'll see.

There is no such thing as parabolic taper .
Let's just refer to them as a taper with a ARC or curve.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Hahaha. See, I knew that I didn't know what it was. At least I knew that much.

I have just read posts where you guys were debating the Parabolic or what it was supposed to represent vs other tapers.

All I know is that one of my Taper Bars is set for approx 12 inches. After, and not always,
I will measure approx 12 " and mark 1/2" and 1" increments on it and measure each mark.

More for a learning lesson for myself, so I can see the small increments that the shaft does increase within that 12" mark.

Also great to know that there is no such thing as a Parabolic Taper. Then, I won't have to worry my little head over it and can get onto other things.

Thanks for setting things straight Joey.

Anyway, I put your post into a Text File for future reference when making measurements.

 

[Bob 14:1]

A pro-taper to me ( TO WHAT IT IS UNDERSTOOD TODAY ) is less than 1MM taper to the middle of the shaft .
If the tip is 13MM and it's less than 14MM in the middle of the shaft , that's a pro taper to me .

Might as well ask OB what the tip size is and diameter at the 12" spot and 14.5" spot .
Compare that to what you are used to.

I TOTALLY agree. Maybe I should look elsewhere for a new shaft. I mistakenly thought OB's were a widely used and popular selling shaft. It just boggles my mind that nobody who owns one, or works on them, and even sells them, can give me the definitive specs as you are suggesting in mm's at various shaft locations. One mm is great, and would most likely work well because of my preference for a large diameter shaft.

Hell, blowing $250 for a lousy cue shaft simply should not be at all as difficult as this is proving to be. I'm on a very limited disability retirement, and $250 isn't chump change.
THIS TOTALLY SUX!! :frown: However, THANK YOU to all who have taken the time trying to help me! :thumbup:

 

[JoeyInCali]

OB's are popular and great quality shafts.

 

[RichSchultz]

I love OB products....really quality items!

 

[M.G.]

Can't you just swing by a shop and have a look at an OB? Or maybe someone at your pool place?
In Germany you can mail order one and sent it back after 2 weeks and will get 100% refund. Of course you cannot chalk it or "use" it, but you might be able to hit a ball 3 times so you get a feeling for it (so it stays pristine).

Unfortunately I'm more in for the hard hit and 12,5 - 12,75mm so I cannot give you another recommendation, other than that Universal shafts, Tiger X LD and Cuetec R360 are on the hard(er) side and nothing for you

The Everest I would not leave on forever, it's starts out great for 3-4 months! Then it gets uncomfortably hard and you cannot feel the hit anymore :frown:

Cheers!

 

[Straightpool_99]

The taper is a difficult question. I guess the best would be to have someone from OB answer that one.

As for the ferrule, the layered wooden ferrule of the OB makes the cue hit very soft. It is a very unfamiliar type of hit, and quite a few people do not like it. The people who try it typically either hate it or love it because it is so different. It performs well, though.

The Everest tip is bad. I've removed it from all the cues I've owned (Predators and McDermotts mostly, but also an OB). It's dry, glazes over, does not hold chalk as well as comparable tips etc. For the price it is horrible. If you are used to really low end tips, you may think it's ok, though. You can, however get lots of enjoyment out of it, if you treat it right. You need Iron oxide powder, aluminium powder and a magnesium ribbon.... I can also tell you how a simple shotgun and some shells can make the words in "Fifty shades of Grey" fly off the page.

 

[Daryle]

Currently using a OB134 and Pro + shaft with a Kamui medium installed on 12.75. IMHO this setup is good value for money. Enjoy the feedback and refocus it brings to my game.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Drop The Rock]

They may be talking about the same taper the Mezz HPII shafts have. I believe Mezz has called it a graduated taper. In other words. Instead of no diameter increase for 12" or a conical which increases consistently from tip to joint, the graduated has diametere increases every 3-4 inches or something, its part of the reason that shaft is so stiff

 

[shanesinnott]

Bob,

Let me know what additional questions you have about our shafts and tapers and I will be happy to answer them for you.

 

[billiardthought]

Hell, blowing $250 for a lousy cue shaft simply should not be at all as difficult as this is proving to be. I'm on a very limited disability retirement, and $250 isn't chump change.

1) If a shaft is lousy, why would you spend any money on it at all, let alone 200+? The fact is this is not a lousy shaft.
2) Buying a shaft is not difficult, especially not a production shaft. You place it in your cart and purchase it. If you are interested in trying it, no person should be able to persuade you not to. If you are not interested in trying it, no person should be able to convince you to buy it.