Hello all, thanks in advance for any guidance / advice you can provide!
What I'm designing/building is not a cue per se but it is cylindrical, involves custom inlay work, and I have yet to find a more knowledgeable crowd than cue makers when it comes to this particular combination
I'll describe what I believe to be the best process for arriving at a product ready to perform inlay work on that meets my specifications.
After the inlay pockets have been cut and the inlays glued in place, allow to set for about 10 days and then perform the final turn down to 1". Finish with shellac, sand, polish.
Please feel free to correct anything above or comment on any part of the process you think might not be possible :thumbup:
On to my questions! I know it's a bit out of the ordinary but here goes:
1) Is it ok that the inlay pockets will be cut 1/8" deep (to the steel sleeve)?
2) What is the minimal amount of material that should be left at an edge before an inlay pocket is cut?
3) The design I've put together has two over-sized inlays. As I understand it, these two inlays would have to be machined on a 3 axis cnc in order to create a concave back to avoid runout at the edges during the final turn. Is this correct?
4) Is it possible to finish something like this in a natural stained wood looking finish but still have enough durability where the inlays will stay in place for years to come? (I'm torn between a natural finish and a deep glossy finish)
I'm quite new to all of this but I've tried to read as much as possible (forums, how tos, etc...) to answer my own questions. It's gotten me this far, but I was unable to find answers to the above questions on my own. Any help is greatly appreciated!
What I'm designing/building is not a cue per se but it is cylindrical, involves custom inlay work, and I have yet to find a more knowledgeable crowd than cue makers when it comes to this particular combination
I'll describe what I believe to be the best process for arriving at a product ready to perform inlay work on that meets my specifications.
- Take 1 1/4" square stock (ebony), length of 3" and drill a 7/8" hole.
- Sleeve the hole with a stainless steel pipe (threaded on both ends [female so it sits flush]).
- After the glue has fully dried, turn the piece down to slightly over 1" (1" will be the final diameter) to be ready for inlay pockets to be cut.
After the inlay pockets have been cut and the inlays glued in place, allow to set for about 10 days and then perform the final turn down to 1". Finish with shellac, sand, polish.
Please feel free to correct anything above or comment on any part of the process you think might not be possible :thumbup:
On to my questions! I know it's a bit out of the ordinary but here goes:
1) Is it ok that the inlay pockets will be cut 1/8" deep (to the steel sleeve)?
2) What is the minimal amount of material that should be left at an edge before an inlay pocket is cut?
3) The design I've put together has two over-sized inlays. As I understand it, these two inlays would have to be machined on a 3 axis cnc in order to create a concave back to avoid runout at the edges during the final turn. Is this correct?
4) Is it possible to finish something like this in a natural stained wood looking finish but still have enough durability where the inlays will stay in place for years to come? (I'm torn between a natural finish and a deep glossy finish)
I'm quite new to all of this but I've tried to read as much as possible (forums, how tos, etc...) to answer my own questions. It's gotten me this far, but I was unable to find answers to the above questions on my own. Any help is greatly appreciated!
