Stabilized Maple Burl

meridianblades

meridianblades

BIG SHILL
Silver Member
Have a few Professionally Stabilized pieces of Maple Burl here.

First 2 pieces (13X and 13Y) are Spalted Maple Burl Stabilized and Dyed Yellow. 13" long. $125 each

Last 3 pieces are Stabilized clear 2 @ 13" long $115 each and

1 @ 11.75" long $80. Shipping flat rate in CONUS is $12. PM for questions. Thanks

MB1_zpsd71467ff.jpg


MB2_zps87fb7d88.jpg


M4.jpg
 
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Darcy, Tom,

It looks to me like Minneapolis is a lot closer to Edmonton than Florida.

I realize there is pesky customs in the middel there - interesting race!! :wink:

Enjoy your new wood!!

Gary
 
That is some spectacular wood. I can't wait to see some cues made from it!


Please gentlemen, post pics of the cues!


.
 
I've never cored a piece of wood:(. Oh well. something has to be handle wood. I can use Garys wood for the forearm and butt sleeve.:)
 
TomHay said:
I've never cored a piece of wood:(. Oh well. something has to be handle wood. I can use Garys wood for the forearm and butt sleeve.:)
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Hi Tom,
There are a lot of guys who don't core but, Anything stabilized and or resin impregnated???? Send it out and have it cored, you'll be glad you did down the road.
 
Michael, I appreciate the input. I should probably do some old guy soul searching, try at leaset one piece and see and feel the results.

Never doing it does not make it right, it can mean having a bad habit of doing it wrong.
 
Although I've looked at and thought about using stabilized wood as pictured on numerous occasions as yet I have never used any. I know that stabilized wood needs to be cored if for no other reason than to relieve some weight but my question is: Being stabilized it looks and feels plastic y. For those who have used this material how does it affect the play-ability of the cue? Does it feel lively or does it feel more like a fiberglass cue? Just what effect does it have? I know that much of it is striking to look at and can make some unstable and too soft and dead feeling woods accessible to builders. Does it make for a good playing cue?

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Although I've looked at and thought about using stabilized wood as pictured on numerous occasions as yet I have never used any. I know that stabilized wood needs to be cored if for no other reason than to relieve some weight but my question is: Being stabilized it looks and feels plastic y. For those who have used this material how does it affect the play-ability of the cue? Does it feel lively or does it feel more like a fiberglass cue? Just what effect does it have? I know that much of it is striking to look at and can make some unstable and too soft and dead feeling woods accessible to builders. Does it make for a good playing cue?

Dick
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Hi Dick
I can honestly say that in the beginning for me, I didn't core it, Played a rack and crack, crack, crack, Trash can. Now I core it 3/4 I.D. :grin:
 
Michael Webb said:
Hi Dick
I can honestly say that in the beginning for me, I didn't core it, Played a rack and crack, crack, crack, Trash can. Now I core it 3/4 I.D. :grin:
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike. I've cored all of my cues for at least 10 years and many for the last 14 years. I've just been a little Leary of them from the way the blanks felt at the different shows that I've been to where they were on display. I want the finished cue to feel like a wood cue. I guess I need to build at least one cue and find out myself. Just so much to do and so little time.

Dick
 
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