Was that red chalk made by "blue diamond"? Looks like the shaft in the middle has really worn down, only about 1/4 inch left.
Step by Step, with photos, easy and safe shaft cleaning
- Thread starter TATE
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Was that red chalk made by "blue diamond"? Looks like the shaft in the middle has really worn down, only about 1/4 inch left.
Chris, after re-visiting this thread, I have a question for you as pertains to your process. When you let the shaft dry, do you mean you wipe it with the damp Magic Eraser and then just let it be? Or do you lightly towel it off and THEN let it air dry?
Reason I ask is because I get a little nervous leaving those chemicals (from the Magic Eraser) on the shaft for very long, so I generally towel it off lightly and then burnish.
Your thoughts?
Reason I ask is because I get a little nervous leaving those chemicals (from the Magic Eraser) on the shaft for very long, so I generally towel it off lightly and then burnish.
Your thoughts?
I'm glad you brought this up. I started reading about Magic Eraser just to find out what made it work a while back - out of curiosity.
As far as I can determine, there are few if any cleaning chemicals on the Original Magic Eraser. They are non-toxic, so that tells us the chemicals used aren't hazardous at least. The warning on the package has to do with the abrasive qualities - like if you ingest it or rub it in your eyes or use it to wash with - not a good thing because it will cause irritation.
It's made of melamine foam, which has an unusual microscopic structure. Melamine foam feels like a sponge but it is a glass-hard fiber that cleans at the microscopic level. It's similar in structure to fiberglass or styrofoam, but the strands are very hard. When moistened, the strands "dig in" like an abrasive and pull out dirt at a cellular level that sandpaper won't reach.
If you just dampen the eraser and use it for the 30 seconds to a minute it takes to clean a shaft, the small amount of water evaporates within a few minutes. I don't find it needs to be wiped off, because the bear wood absorbs the water so quickly, but it certainly can be.
I guess there were some chain e-mails floating around that they were harmful because of the word "formaldehyde" in the description of melamine foam, but that's been debunked.
Here's a pic of the unusual cell structure of melamine foam.
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Thanks, Chris! Good info, and I'll keep it in mind next time I clean up my cues.
This is a good method. I use car wax as a cleaner and sealer. The guy who owns our local pool hall talked me into trying it one day, its what he does with all his cues. It works great! (He lightly goes over the shaft with wax and a brillo pad, (although i wouldn't let a brillo pad near any of my cues!!) then goes over the entire cue with a cloth, shaft, butt and all...It's amazing how much dirt and chalk that gets out!!!) I will try the denatured alcohol method and follow it up with my car wax/ cloth method.
Alternative to magic erasure
I bought one of these from a lady at work. http://www.norwex.com/productdetail.php?id_plk=110&id_ova=&lng=7&cnt=223
I found they did a comparable job to the magic erasure but don't have all the detergents and chemicals.
I bought one of these from a lady at work. http://www.norwex.com/productdetail.php?id_plk=110&id_ova=&lng=7&cnt=223
I found they did a comparable job to the magic erasure but don't have all the detergents and chemicals.
Great thread Chris. I am definitely going to look for parchment paper in the near future. I'm like a Curious George kinda guy but too old to be trying everything once these days.
One of the reasons you will never see Silicon spray in a repair mans or makers shop is that if the silicon were to infect any raw wood waiting to be a cue, it will not hold a finish after that. Finito!
Jeff, GOJO is a brand name for mechanics hand cleaner. Vim is another cleaner with a pumice like substance in it and pretty much the same as many other repackaged billiard shaft cleaners.
I use alcohol on the ME only because if I need to raise dents, I use a steam gun. Using water and wiping it is safe as can be as it doesn't stay on your shaft for enuff time to damage it in any way.
If anyone is interested, Chris Hightower sells a Shaft Sealer that I use after the ME. It can be sanded after but I apply a coat or 2 and leave it on. As far as I am concerned, it can eliminate the need for wax. I wax as a last step but this leaves a nice finish on the shaft in itself.
A small bottle is inexpensive and would last the average player a lifetime.
One of the Cue Makers that answers questions in the Help Forum mentioned this to me and it works great. Its Dick Neighbors and I don't think he would mind if I passed this on.
He uses straight Ammonia as part of his cleaning regimen. I bought a huge bottle for $1.50 and I can tell you, it works as well as any more expensive
repackaged billiard cleaner.
Hes been using this for years and he wouldn't turn anyone on to something like this if it were potentially harmful to a cue.
I use it religiously now.
PS - I use No Name brand eraser. If one can find it in your area, by all means buy it, Its considerably cheaper. And also, cut each pad into 4 pieces as you only need a small piece to do a couple or 3 shafts.
One of the reasons you will never see Silicon spray in a repair mans or makers shop is that if the silicon were to infect any raw wood waiting to be a cue, it will not hold a finish after that. Finito!
Jeff, GOJO is a brand name for mechanics hand cleaner. Vim is another cleaner with a pumice like substance in it and pretty much the same as many other repackaged billiard shaft cleaners.
I use alcohol on the ME only because if I need to raise dents, I use a steam gun. Using water and wiping it is safe as can be as it doesn't stay on your shaft for enuff time to damage it in any way.
If anyone is interested, Chris Hightower sells a Shaft Sealer that I use after the ME. It can be sanded after but I apply a coat or 2 and leave it on. As far as I am concerned, it can eliminate the need for wax. I wax as a last step but this leaves a nice finish on the shaft in itself.
A small bottle is inexpensive and would last the average player a lifetime.
One of the Cue Makers that answers questions in the Help Forum mentioned this to me and it works great. Its Dick Neighbors and I don't think he would mind if I passed this on.
He uses straight Ammonia as part of his cleaning regimen. I bought a huge bottle for $1.50 and I can tell you, it works as well as any more expensive
repackaged billiard cleaner.
Hes been using this for years and he wouldn't turn anyone on to something like this if it were potentially harmful to a cue.
I use it religiously now.
PS - I use No Name brand eraser. If one can find it in your area, by all means buy it, Its considerably cheaper. And also, cut each pad into 4 pieces as you only need a small piece to do a couple or 3 shafts.
Clean shaft.
kelly guy, great job. now to maintain, you can observe when you chalk, how does that much get on it?[just one day} simply angle cue a little , chalk over and dust will fall on floor. not shaft and hand.
kelly guy, great job. now to maintain, you can observe when you chalk, how does that much get on it?[just one day} simply angle cue a little , chalk over and dust will fall on floor. not shaft and hand.
Switch Chalk if your tired of blue hands and dirty shaft
The best magic eraser looks like a Tampax material not the fluffy spongy one- its more durable, and it can be cut down to smaller pieces for use. It helps to spin shaft as this pushes the stuff off the shaft. I use blue diamond chalk because Mater chalk goes all over the place! Thanks mark I use the New Tree wax, after cleaning. I like sealing shafts with (juice ) sanding sealer too. mark thanks Tate
The best magic eraser looks like a Tampax material not the fluffy spongy one- its more durable, and it can be cut down to smaller pieces for use. It helps to spin shaft as this pushes the stuff off the shaft. I use blue diamond chalk because Mater chalk goes all over the place! Thanks mark I use the New Tree wax, after cleaning. I like sealing shafts with (juice ) sanding sealer too. mark thanks Tate
My friend use magic eraser often and his shaft is like rasp :speechless:
That's why you have to let it dry, then sand with 1500 and seal it by burnishing. The eraser alone will leave it too rough because it raises the wood fibers.
Chris
And your floor looks cleaner, too!
That must be why they call it "magic.":thumbup:
Jeff Livingston
My process has many similarities presented in the above posts.
Clean embedded dirt with Dow Scrubbing Bubbles, or Fast Orange Hand Cleaner (Wal-Mart Automotive). Magic Eraser original is also a good cleaner though leaves some residue. Wipe shaft clean. For economy, I cut the eraser into roughly quarter inch slices across the width. This provides sufficient cleaning for a moderately dirty shaft. The smaller size is also good for a ferule cleanup and takes up less room in the case. Best of all for Magic Eraser is that it does not leak.
Sand lightly with 1000 or 1600 fine grit paper and burnish with parchment paper (Reynolds). Parchment paper as used in cooking cookies or cakes. I used to apply wax to the cleaned shaft. Apply Q Wax and let stand and buff, then apply a second coat.
Clean embedded dirt with Dow Scrubbing Bubbles, or Fast Orange Hand Cleaner (Wal-Mart Automotive). Magic Eraser original is also a good cleaner though leaves some residue. Wipe shaft clean. For economy, I cut the eraser into roughly quarter inch slices across the width. This provides sufficient cleaning for a moderately dirty shaft. The smaller size is also good for a ferule cleanup and takes up less room in the case. Best of all for Magic Eraser is that it does not leak.
Sand lightly with 1000 or 1600 fine grit paper and burnish with parchment paper (Reynolds). Parchment paper as used in cooking cookies or cakes. I used to apply wax to the cleaned shaft. Apply Q Wax and let stand and buff, then apply a second coat.
Kinda funny you should mention masons. I am a cement mason and when snapping lines for saw cutting a floor we typically use white (if the concrete is still fresh) or orange. Never red. It will permanently stain the concrete. Good rule of thumb, avoid red chalk at all costs.
