Patrick Johnson said:
A stun shot is any shot where the cue ball has no forward or reverse rotation (follow or draw) when it hits the object ball - i.e., it's sliding.
When a "stunned" CB hits an object ball, one of two things happens:
1. If the CB hits the OB straight on it stops dead. This is a stop shot.
2. If the CB hits the OB at an angle it caroms straight along the "tangent line" without curving off it (as it would do with follow or draw).
To hit a stun/stop shot, you have to hit the CB hard enough and/or enough below center to overcome cloth friction so the CB won't be rolling (with forward rotation) when it reaches the OB. Which combination of speed/draw you use will vary with cloth/ball condition and distance of the shot. Like everything else in pool, you have to practice until you get the feel of it.
pj
chgo
Patrick:
*Excellent* description! One thing I want to add to this information that may be overlooked, is that on some barboxes that use an overweight cue-ball (e.g. Aramith Red Dot [not to be confused with Aramith Red Circle, which is a standard cue-ball]), the overweight cue-ball adds an extra dimension to the physics.
In scenario #1 that Patrick describes (i.e. if the cue-ball is sliding upon impact with the object ball), because the cue-ball is heavier than that object ball, not all of its energy is absorbed by the object ball. Thus, the cue-ball continues sliding for a bit, before it stops. This is basic physics; a moving heavy object hitting a stationary lighter object results in a partial energy transfer -- thus leaving some energy with the original moving object. A pure stop-shot, where the cue-ball immediately stops *at the moment of impact* with the object ball, is next to impossible on barboxes that use heavy cue-balls. Rather, you can have a "pseudo" stop shot, where either the cue-ball moves into the space that was previously occupied by the object ball and then stops (this would be in the case of a pure slide), or rolls/draws back slightly into the place where it would've stopped if it had the same mass as the object ball (this would be in the case of very slight draw applied). If the cue-ball is very close to the object ball and the shot is hit lightly, sure, the nap of the cloth might interfere with the continued slide of the cue-ball, and make it "appear" a pure stop-shot resulted, but that's a different issue -- a third ingredient, the nap of the cloth, interfered.
In scenario #2, again on barboxes with an overweight cue-ball, if the cue-ball is sliding upon impact, an unusal tangent line is taken -- that which is closer to the direction the cue-ball was originally traveling rather than a pure 90-degree angle off the contact point with the object ball. That is, this angle is more than 90-degrees, and something closer to 100 or 110 degrees (depending on how much heavier the cue-ball is over the object balls). That is the effect of a moving heavier object "smashing through" a lighter stationary object.
In scenario #2, depending on the condition of the cloth, you may even see a little bit of "fish-hook" action if there's a bit of draw applied -- the cue-ball "smashes through" the object ball, travels an inch or so, and only then the draw takes effect, resulting in a pronounced "J" fish-hooking of that cue-ball. This gives rise to the opportunity for shots that are not possible on tables that use standard-weighted cue-balls -- e.g. after impact, have that cue-ball hook behind and around an intervening object ball that would normally be in the path of the carom angle (which, with a "normal" cue-ball, you'd expect a carom/billiard with that intervening object ball).
All of these, and more, are described in R. Givens great work,
The 8-Ball Bible. I'm not personally associated with this work, but I thought I'd plug it nonetheless, because it's an eye-opening insight into the differences of physics on certain barboxes.
Hope this is helpful!
-Sean