Table light advice

Traditional lighting (like this for a 9' ft GCI) have the bottom of the bulb bulb within the fixture 36'' above the play surface.
I'd get a traditional 4 light fixture.
Simple, effective with a diverse choice of bulbs for high output lumen choices.
This is my setup.
The fixtures ''do not'' get in the way of the racker or breaker.
Notice no ''glare'' on the seated players in the corners of this 16x20 out building.
An important issue with lighting is shadow casting. I have an elongated led light above my table where I don't get multiple shadows from any of the balls.
 
I have a 5x10 Brunswick gold crown snooker table that I will be setting up in our basement. I’ve been looking for a light to hang above it and stumbled upon an older 8’ diamond light for sell. We have 9’ ceilings in the basement. Would the 8’ light work and is it acceptable to hang a diamond light above a gold crown? Really wanted a gold crown light but this seems priced pretty good. Any thoughts?

Nick
I had flourescent, break one of those and you want to go led. Bought 2 36 inch led hanging lights for home depot. Hung them and needed a hat with a bill to play. Encased them and put a light diffuser from home depot over them, still needed the hat. Bought some 3/8th inch egg crate panels and put them below the diffuser. Now it's fine, least it's fine for me.
If I had a nicer setup, I might buy a nicer light. At this point it's what my basement deserves and it works.
 
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I have qty 2, 2x4 LED flat panels mounted end to end, flush to my 8' ceiling, over my GC. Super cheap, and I wouldn't want a big bulky traditional light with fluorescent tubes again. I got them on ebay/amazon and hung them myself with a flush mount kit from Amazon. It's all personal preferences with the light. The GC light certainly looks a lot better than the Diamond light, however. They only made them during the GC4 years, I believe.
I'm considering doing this same thing but I'm worried about how bright the lights will be from elsewhere in the room and while down on a shot. Did you use any diffusers to cut down on the glare, or is it not really an issue? Do you have any pics?
 
I'm considering doing this same thing but I'm worried about how bright the lights will be from elsewhere in the room and while down on a shot. Did you use any diffusers to cut down on the glare, or is it not really an issue? Do you have any pics?
Hi, this post of mine from a couple years back has a few pictures:


If I were to do it again, I would get the panels that come with a remote control and you can change the color temp and brightness. I think they are only a few dollars more now.

One other good option is this light from Amazon. I got it for a shop space (after I did the pool table lights). I might go with 2 of these if I were to do a pool table light again. The pro is it comes with the frame to make it flush mount, and looks prettier and more modern than the 2x4 flush mount. It comes with the remote control, and the color temp adjustment and brightness adjustment built in. The only con is it's a bit smaller than 2x4. But, I do think 2 of them end to end would be fine for a 9' table.

 
You can't go wrong with a Littman light. I bought one with no logo (table doesn't have one either). There are no shadows, and the light is high enough to not get in the way, plus the design diffuses the light if you look at it directly. Way better than a Diamond light in my opinion, plus it comes pre wired with the LEDs, which are both extra with a Diamond light.

-dj
 

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An important issue with lighting is shadow casting. I have an elongated led light above my table where I don't get multiple shadows from any of the balls.
Looking at my setup, I get NO shadows under rail nose or any balls separated after the break.
I've never heard of a concern for shadows under a racked ball set.
Am I missing something?
 
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Passing on the tongue/cheek response.

Yes, we both seem to be missing something Me.... understanding your definition of ''shadow casting''.
 
Passing on the tongue/cheek response.

Yes, we both seem to be missing something Me.... understanding your definition of ''shadow casting''.
I am picky about lighting and the shadows that are cast. In your photo, the balls look as though there is a shadow for each light (4) above. It is vague, but I see them. I always wear a baseball cap when shooting pool so as not to get light in my eyes from above. I guess I am just picky.
 
At Janscos in the pit.
They had 8 flood lights 1960's (warm) with a canopy from the ceiling down, illuminating the play area, helped ABC Wide World of Sports do the shoot.
But having no shadows under the rail nose is plenty of light.
To have more is just that.
May old timers wore those green/plastic/brim card dealer hats to avoid the glare.
The Bank pool players talked allot about the 8 flood light ball patterns on the obj. balls, allowing them to pick an aim spot.
 
I'm no light expert but I think this helps with the eyes, did for me any way. There are probably way better ones, I got these cause I could ride a mile down the road and pick them up.
by the way, that's just to give you an idea what I found about dealing with the glare from leds. If you have the budget for a litman or lite systems unit you can't beat that.
 
You can't go wrong with a Littman light. I bought one with no logo (table doesn't have one either). There are no shadows, and the light is high enough to not get in the way, plus the design diffuses the light if you look at it directly. Way better than a Diamond light in my opinion, plus it comes pre wired with the LEDs, which are both extra with a Diamond light.

-dj
I played on a 9ft diamond today with Littman lighting and is perfect lighting for a table. No need to wear a brimmed hat as there is no glare .
 
There are many alternatives, but do they have the anti-glare checkered plastic diffuser that makes them quite unique?
I've never had glare issues with any lighting setup. For me the brighter the better. Diffuser? Any number of panel options at the hardware stores. There's a bar near here with only indirect track lighting. No shadows, dimmable, plenty of lumens is why I brought it up. If you want high end aesthetics, That's what the high end stuff is for.
 
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