Table Lighting
- Thread starter thinman
- Start date
depends
It all depends on which bulbs you buy.
My light fixture is designed to hold two 100watt bulbs.
I changed them out to two 150watt spirals that are the day light spirals. Meaning they put out a full spectrum of light instead of being a soft white.
This did several things for me. First my lighting was a lot brighter and better. Second there was a lot less shadowing. Third it cut the cost of running the lights. The two 150watts use about as much energy as one 75watt bulb. So I cut my usage from 200watts down to 75watts!
Also they are supposed to last a lot longer too!
It all depends on which bulbs you buy.
My light fixture is designed to hold two 100watt bulbs.
I changed them out to two 150watt spirals that are the day light spirals. Meaning they put out a full spectrum of light instead of being a soft white.
This did several things for me. First my lighting was a lot brighter and better. Second there was a lot less shadowing. Third it cut the cost of running the lights. The two 150watts use about as much energy as one 75watt bulb. So I cut my usage from 200watts down to 75watts!
Also they are supposed to last a lot longer too!
Yes, definitely get the brighter (150 watts or more) CFs (compact flourescents). I think I'm using two 150s on the ends and one 100 (non-daylight) in the middle. You can definitely see the difference. The lower wattage bulb looks yellow compared to the daylight bulbs which put out a nice white/bluish light. They cost more up front, but pay for themselves in the wattage savings and long life.
How long does it take for the daylight bulbs to get up to full brightness? The brightness thing is what I see as a problem. I use spiral bulbs in some lamps but it seems to take a long time to up to full illumination. I have heard that the daylight bulbs take even longer.
I switched to the 'twisty' bulbs for my GC IV and they take about 5 minutes to get to full brightness, but the lighting is much, much better.
Brunswick (and some others but I forget who just now) currently recommend full spectrum lighting from four foot fluorescent bulbs. Seems they cost about $1,800.00 for one light. I think that two of these lights are needed on a 9 foot table. Here is the URL
http://www.brunswickbilliards.com/brunswick_collection/lights/gold_crown_table_light.html
The recommended "T8" is a full spectrum light. My equipment is important to me but that is a lot for a light. So I looked for other solutions. If you use the full spectrum lights they require a 40 watt ballast. So you have to buy new lamp holders. The lamps have green ends as they are specifically designed for this ballast. I bought two four footers at Home Depot and 8 lamps. Each holds four lamps. Cost about $100.00 (note the reference is $3,600 for two Brunswick lights)
I suspended the lamp holders from two 2X4s screwed together and hung from my ceiling. Here is a photo. Not quite as elegant as Brunswick but ...
Photo was taken with flash (it kicks in automatically) but you can get a pretty good idea about the shadows anyway. Almost all of the light is on the table but I would like more of a pool hall look so next I will use 2’ by 8’ ½ oak plywood stained mahogany and hung at an angle from the lamp base. This will keep the light out of your eyes. I think I will make fake stained glass inserts to dress it up a little.
This system gives me “professional” lighting for a reasonable price. Good color, no shadow problems to speak of and great definition for aiming. BTW "Full Spectrum Lighting" is easier on the eyes and there is less fatigue if you play for long periods of time or so the scientists say -- I do play for long periods of time, hence the hundred bucks is really a pretty cheap investment. To give you some idea about how bright the table is, there is a gas heater, a wood burner, a circulating fan and an air conditioner in the corner on the other side of the table but you can't see them very well in the photo.
Notice the patio door at the end of the room has blinds on it so I can keep out the daylight as needed. Us old guys play during the day too so all the windows in the room have blinds.
http://www.brunswickbilliards.com/brunswick_collection/lights/gold_crown_table_light.html
The recommended "T8" is a full spectrum light. My equipment is important to me but that is a lot for a light. So I looked for other solutions. If you use the full spectrum lights they require a 40 watt ballast. So you have to buy new lamp holders. The lamps have green ends as they are specifically designed for this ballast. I bought two four footers at Home Depot and 8 lamps. Each holds four lamps. Cost about $100.00 (note the reference is $3,600 for two Brunswick lights)
I suspended the lamp holders from two 2X4s screwed together and hung from my ceiling. Here is a photo. Not quite as elegant as Brunswick but ...
Photo was taken with flash (it kicks in automatically) but you can get a pretty good idea about the shadows anyway. Almost all of the light is on the table but I would like more of a pool hall look so next I will use 2’ by 8’ ½ oak plywood stained mahogany and hung at an angle from the lamp base. This will keep the light out of your eyes. I think I will make fake stained glass inserts to dress it up a little.
This system gives me “professional” lighting for a reasonable price. Good color, no shadow problems to speak of and great definition for aiming. BTW "Full Spectrum Lighting" is easier on the eyes and there is less fatigue if you play for long periods of time or so the scientists say -- I do play for long periods of time, hence the hundred bucks is really a pretty cheap investment. To give you some idea about how bright the table is, there is a gas heater, a wood burner, a circulating fan and an air conditioner in the corner on the other side of the table but you can't see them very well in the photo.
Notice the patio door at the end of the room has blinds on it so I can keep out the daylight as needed. Us old guys play during the day too so all the windows in the room have blinds.
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