My 3C playing cue is around 15.5oz. Maybe 16.
I get around the table just fine.
The crazy redhead did that with ozempic.cut about 5 inches off the butt???
If this is true, and it probably is, then it makes sense that you would move to a heavier breaker as you age. The only thing fast twitch on this guy anymore are my eyelids!I vaguely remember Dr. Dave saying that there’s diminishing returns whether you go lighter or heavier. Staying within 18-21oz is ideal. A lot of it comes down to your genetics and if you have fast twitch or slow twitch muscle fibres.
I'll let you in on a secret. If you get one of those Elite brand breakers, the ones with the wood pin, they can make an excellent break cue. They are $240 now but used to be about $150. Anyway... take out the ridiculous weight bolt. The thing is probably 3/8" diameter and 8" long. Then face off the phenolic tip/ferrule combo until it's flat on the end. Put on something like a hammerhead 2 or a white diamond. You will have an absolute beast of a break cue.I was using it at its stock weight. Now using it, at it's minimal weight. Will continue to see how it goes. But you're right, trial and error. See what works for you. As an idea, I do think using a heavier cue and developing the stroke/precision that you want could have some "weight to it"
But really felt good and had good results yesterday, and am keen to continue seeing how it goes.
Yes, Matchroom and WPA seem to lean into that, even with a 3-point rule, you're not needing 100% effort.I think the days of people trying to break 25+ mph are over. It's more of a controlled break now.
The ideal break is break the pack open land the CB in the center of the table and have a shot of the first ball.
It's more about efficiency. A hard break is chaos, balls flying all over the place. A controlled break is more about running racksYes, Matchroom and WPA seem to lean into that, even with a 3-point rule, you're not needing 100% effort.
Sound advice, I would tend to trust a member named 'Crasher' on matters relating to breakingYou generate the highest amount of force if both mass and acceleration are balanced. a toothpick can be swung as quick as your arm can move, and a barbell is quite heavy, but neither are going to impart much force into a rack if used as a cue. Additionally, the energy transfer from the cue ball to rack should be as close to 100% as possible, requiring a precise hit. Your gains in force are greatly diminished if you're not hitting the rack full. You should have a cue weight that allows you to swing as hard and as accurately as possible to get the most efficient hit that you're capable of.
I’m not a Rocket man, but it’s mass x speed squared = force.My friend Ron was clocked at 26mph at SBE, I believe the formula is mass × speed = force, you can improve your break force by adding weight if you don't have good break speed.
I'd trust a guy named jtompilot regarding this matterI’m not a Rocket man, but it’s mass x speed squared = force.
I’m not a Rocket man, but it’s mass x speed squared = force.
Ok, it gets complicated, but you’re correct about force. I was thinking Kinetic Energy that is directly proportional to the mass and the square of the velocity. When breaking I’d think it would be more correct to use Kinetic energy than force. Where’s Dr. Dave when you need him
Currently PBkai with Ignite G shaft. A bulletproof tip.Interesting thread Flake.
I reduced my break cue weights recently too.
What tip do you have on your break cue?
I am currently on kamui sai but dont really like it.
True, and I think that will be relevant to the individual, there physical condition and their stroke mechanics. Like most things in cue sports, you can learn to use anything. Some things fit our playing 'personality' (for want of a better word)assuming that the lighter the cue, the more cue ball speed, the stronger the break, how much is TOO much??? There has to be a sweet spot of cue weight and velocity. look at the chart below.
20 ounce cue moving at 20 mph
18 ounce cue moving at 22 mph
16 ounce cue moving at 24 mph
14 ounce cue moving at 26 mph
12 ounce cue moving at 28 mph
10 ounce cue moving at 30 mph
these are all made up numbers, but you get the idea.
If speed was the main factor then a one ounce cue, think pencil, hitting the cue ball at 80 mph would be ideal.
or if cue weight was the main factor then a 19 POUND cue hitting at 2 mph would be the best.
There has to be a "magic" combo that produces the ideal break shot. Doesn't there???
nice. i heard good things about ignite GCurrently PBkai with Ignite G shaft. A bulletproof tip.
After playing it in for a few months, I find it transfers energy really nicely through the ball. Enough softeness for 'feel' and hard enough for power through the ball. I like the 'feel' to it, for me I feel this helps with timing and stroke mechanics. I can clearly define the point of contact with the cueball, and time my mechanics nicely. Highly rate it as a tip (I dented it badly when I first got it, and when I asked, he said he'd give me a lifetime supply if I could truly break it lol - after a little more playing, right back to how I shaped it).
Nice for jumping the ball too (if you're into that sort of thing).
Sai was second on my list, and if it wasn't for the fact someone gave me the BP to try, I would have gone that route.
I have had three different friends give negative feedback of the Taom. Damaging cloth, and self-destructing with friction wearing the edges of the tip unevenly. I also considered this tip to replace the Mezz Sonic, which I found to lose shape easily, so I have a spare (which I will likely never use now)nice. i heard good things about ignite G
i was trying to find taom break tips but seems like they are off the market, i'll give bulletproof a try