taper shape

bubsbug

bubsbug

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This machine was posted here two years ago. Was wondering if anyone used it as is without modifying. Looks like it would be a good manual machine. Perhaps making mortor driven instead of had wheel could have benefits. I havnt seen a taper shaper (Uniques) up close but looks to have a lot in common. Both work of same principal. I wonder how this might compare. The company is moving and offering 10% off. Also they make a smaller one with only 32" between centers at $800. A cue maker by the name of James McCafferty used it to make cues. If you serch site you can see the cues.



http://www.legacywoodworking.com/products.cfm?product=3
 
bubsbug said:
This machine was posted here two years ago. Was wondering if anyone used it as is without modifying. Looks like it would be a good manual machine. Perhaps making mortor driven instead of had wheel could have benefits. I havnt seen a taper shaper (Uniques) up close but looks to have a lot in common. Both work of same principal. I wonder how this might compare. The company is moving and offering 10% off. Also they make a smaller one with only 32" between centers at $800. A cue maker by the name of James McCafferty used it to make cues. If you serch site you can see the cues.



http://www.legacywoodworking.com/products.cfm?product=3
Click to expand...
The Taper Shaper is Auto Feed with Head Stock and Tail Stock. Follows a Taper Bar with Spring Load. This machine is designed to run off of a hand crank. Kind of like comparing Apples to Oranges.
 
billiardbum said:
The Taper Shaper is Auto Feed with Head Stock and Tail Stock. Follows a Taper Bar with Spring Load. This machine is designed to run off of a hand crank. Kind of like comparing Apples to Oranges.
Click to expand...

Is auto feed really needed??? Could one remove the dial or hand wheel add a motor with speed control and have power feed??
 
Power feed vs Handwheel

I think you will find tapering a butt or shaft using the handwheel to be a very frustrating task.....and not very accurate. The power feed in my limited experience produces a much smoother and accurate cut ;)
 
routing

krbsailing said:
I think you will find tapering a butt or shaft using the handwheel to be a very frustrating task.....and not very accurate. The power feed in my limited experience produces a much smoother and accurate cut ;)
Click to expand...
I do have lots of experience routing although I have never routed a spindle while spinning. My experience allowes me to start, stop, back up, start again and still creat a flawless seem or edge. When you back up the material is gone, nothing to cut unless you tip the router or something dumb. Going to fast does creat problems. Im sure that cutting a moving spindal is all together different as I never have. Has anyone ever tried to do it manually, by turning off their power feed? I wouldn't think that leiner traver is as crutial to cutting depth, or router speed. Aftwards wouldn't sandpaper clear up any imperfection so long as you didnt actually chip the wood? Just courious that all. Im just a wannabe! Thanks
 
bubsbug said:
I do have lots of experience routing although I have never routed a spindle while spinning. My experience allowes me to start, stop, back up, start again and still creat a flawless seem or edge. When you back up the material is gone, nothing to cut unless you tip the router or something dumb. Going to fast does creat problems. Im sure that cutting a moving spindal is all together different as I never have. Has anyone ever tried to do it manually, by turning off their power feed? I wouldn't think that leiner traver is as crutial to cutting depth, or router speed. Aftwards wouldn't sandpaper clear up any imperfection so long as you didnt actually chip the wood? Just courious that all. Im just a wannabe! Thanks
Click to expand...

Others are too polite to say this, but
Why do you make 12 posts a day asking for
advice, then ignore and/or argue with the
advice that is given?????

the Legacy is a great machine for the pupose it was
intended - stair spindles, fluting, spirals, etc.

it is not accurate enough for shaft profiling

you would be better off buying a POS $130 Harbor Freight
wood lathe and sanding them by hand
 
> Maybe an old-hand Master machinist trained on manual stuff all his life might be able to cut a piece that length fairly smooth,but even then all you'd have to do is look at the surface quality and see where his feed got off. Try this. Take a 1" x 12" aluminum rod and prep it for turning between centers. Stick about 8-10" out of the chuck,run the live center in and touch off on the part,then dial in a .025 cut,and feed it yourself towards the chuck for several inches. Take a close look at the surface quality. Now,correctly set the feed/speed for the material,,dial in another .025 cut and engage the feed. Not only will you see the correct feed speed for aluminum is much faster than you can accurately hand-feed,you will see an obvious improvement in the surface finish. The smoother you can cut,the less sanding is needed to prep for sealing/finishing.
 
pdcue said:
Others are too polite to say this, but
Why do you make 12 posts a day asking for
advice, then ignore and/or argue with the
advice that is given?????

the Legacy is a great machine for the pupose it was
intended - stair spindles, fluting, spirals, etc.

it is not accurate enough for shaft profiling

you would be better off buying a POS $130 Harbor Freight
wood lathe and sanding them by hand
Click to expand...
Thanks for being blunt. Nothing wrong with that at all. Im not trying to be argumenative. Im just like a kind in a candy store with many, many questions. My origional question wasnt completely answered. I did mention something about changing handwheel to motor. I fail to see how this machine would be less accurate then other machinery and Im simply trying to get to the root of it. I am a little hard headed and stubborn sometimes but for me I have to know the "why" before the "doing"
 
Sure, you could:

Put steppers on all three axis

Replace the lead screws with something that that had some sort of backlash control

Replace the "made for woodworking where a few thousanths of play doesn't matter" linear guides with some THK's

Rebuild the headstock and tailstocks so they have zero runout


And then you would have a good machine for about $5000.00.


Or you could just buy one that is already made for what you want to do.

Royce
 
bubsbug said:
Thanks for being blunt. Nothing wrong with that at all. Im not trying to be argumenative. Im just like a kind in a candy store with many, many questions. My origional question wasnt completely answered. I did mention something about changing handwheel to motor. I fail to see how this machine would be less accurate then other machinery and Im simply trying to get to the root of it. I am a little hard headed and stubborn sometimes but for me I have to know the "why" before the "doing"
Click to expand...

No as a matter of fact you don't have to know the why,
you just never progressed beyound the emotional development
level of a typical five year old:

"Daddy, what makes the car go forward?".
"Daddy, what makes the wheels turn round?".
"Daddy, why does the axle spin?".

here is more of a hint than you deserve.

Do you think anyone has ever become a hundred
ball runner solely by asking questions on the internet?

>>rant mode disenabled<<

Dale
 
pdcue said:
No as a matter of fact you don't have to know the why,
you just never progressed beyound the emotional development
level of a typical five year old:

"Daddy, what makes the car go forward?".
"Daddy, what makes the wheels turn round?".
"Daddy, why does the axle spin?".

here is more of a hint than you deserve.

Do you think anyone has ever become a hundred
ball runner solely by asking questions on the internet?

>>rant mode disenabled<<

Dale
Click to expand...


awe..... turn the rant back on ..... thats some funny shit:D
 
bubsbug said:
This machine was posted here two years ago. Was wondering if anyone used it as is without modifying. Looks like it would be a good manual machine. Perhaps making mortor driven instead of had wheel could have benefits. I havnt seen a taper shaper (Uniques) up close but looks to have a lot in common. Both work of same principal. I wonder how this might compare. The company is moving and offering 10% off. Also they make a smaller one with only 32" between centers at $800. A cue maker by the name of James McCafferty used it to make cues. If you serch site you can see the cues.



http://www.legacywoodworking.com/products.cfm?product=3
Click to expand...

More than likely the issue is going to be accuracy. It could be modified, but at great expense, and it would be more expensive than purchasing something already built. If you are wanting to build something yourself, do it from scratch, and you might look at what Murray Tucker posted here not too long ago. If you are looking for a cost break, you aren't going to get it from buying a machine and modifying it to your specifications. No matter what anyone says, don't stop asking questions, but what I think they were unsuccessful in trying to point out to you is that you should experiment for yourself and find out what is wrong. Again, with the machine you pointed out, accuracy will more than likely be the problem. Call them and see what the runout is for their machine. Determine for yourself if it is accurate enough for you.
 
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